Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started
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The four speed is the culprit for me. The planetary assembly pushes the main Atlas body back about 6 inches. Your bump-out is in front of the raised section that the front seat bolts go through. Mine is behind it. That's a big difference because in front, like yours, it's not two layers of steel sheet, as it is in the rear, like mine. I learned that the 6" difference between the two speed and four speed Atlas lengths is not a trivial difference!
That makes complete sense. Even in my case, I was right up against the double layered area. If I'd needed any more, it would have been much more difficult. Although the 4-speed would be very nice, the length of a TJ kinda rules it out or at a minimum makes its more complicated than I wanted to attempt.
Yeah, I think I commented to Mr. Blaine during one of his "coaching" sessions via the phone that I don't know how someone would fit that in a TJ and not have issues with an incredibly short drive shaft. This picture, pulled from the "Installing a Atlas 4-Speed Transfer Case in a Jeep Wrangler TJ" thread here is what a TJ rear driveshaft looks like with a 4 speed Atlas
:The other complicating factor that requires even more tunnel massaging to fit a four speed is that because the case sits 6" further back, you have to raise the transmission even more because the transmission angles downward in the rear, so as you move it back, you have to also raise it to keep the bottom of the transfer case off the skid. That means more tunnel bumping!
If you've looked through my build, you'll notice I took advantage of every modification I could to make it fit. I countersunk the oil pan cover screws on the Atlas and used flat-heads, and I used a die grinder to cut a pocket in the skid plate to give a bit more clearance to the lowest corner of the Atlas. That thing just barely fits in there. In fact, I have shims made to adjust the height in case the rubber mount sags more.
I'm glad no one told me how much work it would be to put a four speed in because I might have been too lazy to tackle it!
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Yesterday, I started on closing off the tunnel for the transmission and transfer case levers. I'll post more on that shortly, but first, in anticipation of putting the interior back together, I pressure washed the carpet this morning. I hung it out side on a line to let most of the water drip off all day, and then I moved it into the shop on a make-shift clothesline this afternoon:View attachment 612120
Back to the close-off project. Yesterday, I cut some .060" thick adhesive-backed foam to put on the block-off plate I made last weekend (to hopefully seal it from hot air attempting to come into the cabin):
View attachment 612122
For the first half, I cut it out first using a pattern I transferred to paper, and then applied it, as shown above. The second half was a bit more complicated due to the clearance hump for the Atlas twin-stick tower, so I just stuck the foam to the plate and then cut the edges and holes (holes were cut with an ordinary paper single-hole punch.) Viola:
View attachment 612124
Also yesterday, I installed the 10-32 nutserts needed to install the block-off plate:
View attachment 612127
And that wrapped up yesterday's build activities. This morning, I was occupied by another project - the battery for our fancy zero-turn mower. I can't keep batteries alive - it will last one season even with a smart charger on it whenever it's not in use. Every spring I have to buy a new $75 sealed lead acid battery. I've tried three different chargers on different settings, and the results are always the same - a dead battery in the spring. I had to drive into town to get a new battery for it.
Mid-morning, I started back in on the LJ build. I had not replaced the stock nutserts around the block-off plate because I thought I'd be able to use them, but they didn't work - they were spinning when tightening the screws. I tried using the nutsert tool to pinch them tighter, but the that resulted in stripped nutserts. I think they are 10-32, but maybe not? To remedy the situation, I just drilled them out and replaced them with new 10-32 nutserts. Then I put the transmission block-off cover and the new transfer case block-off plate I made on:
View attachment 612151
Finally, I used self-tappers to install the boots on the Atlas twin-sticks and planetary levers:
View attachment 612152
I'm getting close to starting in on the axles. However, I don't think it'll happen next weekend because I'll likely clean the interior and then start installing the carpet, seats, and center console. Stay tuned!
Looking great!! Clean install — as always.
For the zero-turn battery, do you run a trickle charger?
In the early years of my riding mower, I killed a battery within the 2-3 years. With a new battery and it being stored in my garage, I kept it on a trickle charger all winter long. Battery lasted 8-9 years.
This spring, after 2 winters being stored in the new shed, the battery wouldn't start the mower. (pulled the TJ's battery and used that to jump the mower....) I put it back on a trickle charger and it's showing charged - got to try it next mow to see if it starts up to see if I get a season more out of it...
In the future, I'll pull the battery into the garage and toss it on a trickle charger over the winter.
Yup. I grew up in the great white north where we always had vehicles on chargers in the off-season (snow equipment in the summer and everything else in the winter). It was far cheaper to put a charger on each battery than to buy new batteries each year. I bet I have over a dozen chargers in various places here on the homestead. I actually tried three different chargers on various settings for the zero-turn over the last few years, and I even had a brand new spare battery for it on a charger in the house all winter. That one was bad, too, when I pulled it out on Sunday. However, all the batteries I've been trying the last few years are sealed AGM batteries, and I found out today at the battery place that they aren't a good choice for engine starters. I just put a wet lead-acid battery in it tonight. We'll see how that one lasts.
Can't speak to the difference on a zero turn but for my riding mower I went with the lead-acid from Napa. Napa's been my go-to, since Sears went bust, for reliable batteries I know I'll beat on (like the Jeep or mower) where they may run low, lots of start-stop, cold temps perhaps without a charger or start often, etc.
DD get a Walmart EverStart - and they've been good in the 2 DD's I've put them in.
Yesterday was spent designing some rainwater collection equipment for the homestead, so no progress was made on the build. Today, however, I made a wee bit of progress. I got the carpet and front portion of the center console installed:
I can’t install the rear of the center console until I figure out how to mount the new subwoofer in it. Stay tuned!
I can’t install the rear of the center console until I figure out how to mount the new subwoofer in it. Stay tuned!
Millennial theft deterrent! I forsee the kids working at shops staring dumbly at the console before going back inside to find an old guy to drive it onto the lift
That's the OEM carpet. It was in excellent shape, and I just shampooed and re-installed it.
Yeah, a few months back, I came to the realization that I'd have seven levers. Crazy, I know, but I guess I have one for each slat in the grill.
The only way this LJ will see a shop is if I'm incapacitated and unable to do the work myself. I don't trust anyone to work on it. The skillset of the average mechanic is pathetic these days. I wish that wasn't the case because one day, sooner than I'd like, I know I won't be able to work on it anymore.I forsee the kids working at shops staring dumbly at the console before going back inside to find an old guy to drive it onto the lift
The only way this LJ will see a shop is if I'm incapacitated and unable to do the work myself. I don't trust anyone to work on it. The skillset of the average mechanic is pathetic these days. I wish that wasn't the case because one day, sooner than I'd like, I know I won't be able to work on it anymore.
Same. What about tire shops? I've had kids stare at the shifters in my trucks several times and turn around to go find a grown up. They can't even do tires right these days though. I want to at least get a good used balancer.
I installed the tires myself because Discount Tire won't touch them:
And then I forgot to add the balancing beads, and Discount Tire wouldn't even balance them, so I had to go to a small tire shop that did it for me, but I brought just the wheels/tires to them.
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I installed the tires myself because Discount Tire won't touch them:
And then I forgot to add the balancing beads, and Discount Tire wouldn't even balance them, so I had to go to a small tire shop that did it for me, but I brought just the wheels/tires to them.
One of the best parts of living in Arizona is the local Llanteras(mexican tire shops). They will Mount anything on anything.
Yeah, I think I commented to Mr. Blaine during one of his "coaching" sessions via the phone that I don't know how someone would fit that in a TJ and not have issues with an incredibly short drive shaft. This picture, pulled from the "Installing a Atlas 4-Speed Transfer Case in a Jeep Wrangler TJ" thread here is what a TJ rear driveshaft looks like with a 4 speed Atlas
View attachment 612722
The other complicating factor that requires even more tunnel massaging to fit a four speed is that because the case sits 6" further back, you have to raise the transmission even more because the transmission angles downward in the rear, so as you move it back, you have to also raise it to keep the bottom of the transfer case off the skid. That means more tunnel bumping!
If you've looked through my build, you'll notice I took advantage of every modification I could to make it fit. I countersunk the oil pan cover screws on the Atlas and used flat-heads, and I used a die grinder to cut a pocket in the skid plate to give a bit more clearance to the lowest corner of the Atlas. That thing just barely fits in there. In fact, I have shims made to adjust the height in case the rubber mount sags more.
I'm glad no one told me how much work it would be to put a four speed in because I might have been too lazy to tackle it!
That photo is insane. You hear "short driveshaft" and then you REALLY see what "short" means.