Seized body mount bolt
- Thread starter SkylinesSuck
- Start date
Wait, do you know me personally?
I got it this morning!!!! Thanks for all the input guys. I finished my second cup of coffee and was feeling all nimbly bimbly, so after spraying some more Kroil on it, I decided to give it a go with the breaker bar. After loosening then tightening a couple of times, it seemed to be turning a smidge more. More Kroil then attacked it with the impact. Annnnnnnnd, boom goes the dynamite. Very happy. I'm going to replace all the bolts assuming I can find acceptable replacements.
And yes, there appears to be some surface rust in the torque box. I had cleaned and coated the inside of the frame, but never looked at the boxes. They had a good layer of dried dirt inside them. That must have been getting wet during rain and holding moisture on top of the bolts. I plan to hose those out real good and fluid film the crap out of them after all this is finished.
Anybody got any recommendations on bolts? Like stainless stuff or something? I noticed these are not grade 8.
I know someone that uses the below website. He painted the threads with anti-seize and hit the rest with fluid film before installing them. They are not stainless.Wait, do you know me personally?
I got it this morning!!!! Thanks for all the input guys. I finished my second cup of coffee and was feeling all nimbly bimbly, so after spraying some more Kroil on it, I decided to give it a go with the breaker bar. After loosening then tightening a couple of times, it seemed to be turning a smidge more. More Kroil then attacked it with the impact. Annnnnnnnd, boom goes the dynamite. Very happy. I'm going to replace all the bolts assuming I can find acceptable replacements.
And yes, there appears to be some surface rust in the torque box. I had cleaned and coated the inside of the frame, but never looked at the boxes. They had a good layer of dried dirt inside them. That must have been getting wet during rain and holding moisture on top of the bolts. I plan to hose those out real good and fluid film the crap out of them after all this is finished.
Anybody got any recommendations on bolts? Like stainless stuff or something? I noticed these are not grade 8.
Jeepbolts.com
good job callin me out on this. after i go back and look at pics. it seems my floor was in such bad shape the B bar feet, the floor had actually sunk around them making it look like they were dimpled up. my mistake, appreciate the correction.
Dorman finally got it right.
Long one goes under the tail gate and grill. Short one goes in the shock crossmember mounts.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI1ZXE6oHW8AIVFW1vBB2g_g4tEAQYASABEgKdWvD_BwE
I went to Ace and got yellow zinc grade 8. I know grade 8 may not be needed but its done. Anti-sieze.
I was ready to tell you to get your wallet ready for a welder (if you don't already have one). I just removed my BL and broken 3 bolts. The new Miller is enjoying its new home - my wallet, not so much...
Glad to see a happy outcome for you!
I too took @Jerry Bransford advice on Kroil. Used it on the rear upper shock bolts. They came out easy. It's solid advice.
Glad to see a happy outcome for you!
I too took @Jerry Bransford advice on Kroil. Used it on the rear upper shock bolts. They came out easy. It's solid advice.
Good decision, can't beat a Miller. My latest use was a couple days ago on my old pool pump motor whose bearings had gone bad. I ended up welding a small wrench between its shaft and frame to stop the shaft from spinning while removing its impeller.
Now that they’re out & the crisis is over why not re-use them if they’re still in decent shape & have their threads? If so I’d soak them in Kroil or whatever else you have to chew up the corrosion then a bit of wire wheeling if necessary, some anti-seize then slap’m back in; if/when you ever need to take them out again they’ll slide out without a repeat fight. The toque values are pretty low so they’re not cranked down too hard which helps.
I pulled 4 of mine out last month to remove the rock sliders & afterwards yanked the other 7 just to clean up & lubricate. Other than when the PO installed the sliders whenever that was that’s probably the first time they’d been out since they were installed at the factory. They weren’t all that pretty but they were functionally fine.
CRC Freeze off worked great on boat engine where you really do have to fear heat. Haven’t tried it on the Jeep but a good friend who works primarily on Cats said he never runs out it. You are trying to expand and/or contract the connection so chemicals can attack corrosion. Needless to say, use in area open to circulation (the only drawback on below waterline work).
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