Setting up a kill switch (hidden in plain sight)

I have broad form insurance, which basically covers my license, and not any specific vehicle. However, being that the Jeep is in the wife's name, she has it under her insurance, which is strictly liability. We'll be looking into changing that here, shortly.
 
I know there is no way to stop a thief that really wants your Jeep, but let's at least make it more difficult.

I thought I would post my combination lock kill switch ... It uses 3 (or more) switches that must be in the correct position for the Jeep to start. Since it's in plain sight, any would-be thief would first need to know that one of those maybe a kill switch, then know that it's all 3, and lastly, know the combination. It works great and once I paint the interior black you probably won't even see them.

With 3 switches there are 8 combinations, 4 switches have 16 combinations and so on.

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Here is the write up for installation:

1) Find which connector your vehicle uses according to the chart at the bottom of the schematic.

Connector locations are as follows:

1997 - 2002 connector 106 location:


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2003 - 2004 connector 103 location:

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2) Cut the ADE (Auto Disable/re-Enable) wire 5 or 6 inches up from your respective connector

3) Solder the wire coming from your connector to the relay socket wires going to relay terminals 30 and 86. This is your hot ignition wire and will supply power to the NEW relay and the ADE relay once the switches are closed.

4) Use terminal lugs to connect all 3 switches in series (see schematic). Soldering the wires may damage the switches.

5) Mount the switches in your console and run the wires down to the NEW relay. You should only have two unconnected wires, one on each end of the series connected switches.

6) Connect one of the open wires to chassis ground and the other to the wire coming off terminal 85 of the NEW relay. This connection will supply the NEW relay's coil ground once the switches are closed.

7) Setting the "combination" is as simple as arranging how the switches are positioned when closed. Example:

SW1
ON — OFF
SW2
ON — OFF
SW3
OFF — ON

So, for the vehicle to start the top 2 switched would need to be pointed left when closed and the bottom switch right.

Schematic:

View attachment 12646

Parts List

Relay and Socket — $8.99

Switches (3) — $1.98 ea.

18 AWG wire

Let me know if you have any questions.
Wondering about the 2nd relay and the need for it. If all we're doing is interrupting the power in the 106 line wouldn't the original relay manage the original function?
 
Connector locations are as follows:

1997 - 2002 connector 106 location:


View attachment 12644

I ended up messing with connector 106 and tried unplugging it because I thought that would make it easier to install. I actually wasn’t able to fully unplug it and ever since it’s kind of been in limbo. Sometimes my jeep randomly turns off and won’t start again until I mess with the connector and afterwards she’s fine until (I assume) it slightly wiggles out of place again. I think it’s not fully plugged in because messing with it allows me to turn my Jeep back on and the connector sticks out farther than the connectors above and below it.

Anybody had an issue with reconnecting those harnesses? I’ve tried putting one end of a shoe horn to the harness and smacking the other end with a 3 lb hammer but it didn’t go any farther in. Any ideas on how I can get that plug fully in?