That's genius! Think I'll do something like that while I'm running fog light wires ☺
Setting up a kill switch (hidden in plain sight)
- Thread starter CodaMan
- Start date
TJ2
TJ Expert
TJ2
TJ Expert
In Detroit, thieves also bring their own TJ fuel pump fuse to target the TJs..
These rascals knows their stuff.
These rascals knows their stuff.
Kiwi TJ
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy every minute
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Kent Dakin
Member
How does a SPDT actually increase the combinations from a usage stand point? Let's assume the thief knows "off" is "off." From the perspective of the OP's post then, Left could be off or on, Right could be on or off. Unless I'm missing something with the SPDT, L could still be on/off and R could still be on/off??
My theft deterrent is a third pedal to the left of the brake pedal. I've had friends attempt to move my vehicles before (cars and motorcycles) to confuse me when I come back into the parking lot with no prevail. I know that only goes so far and your anti theft method you original write up is much better off.
In this application, you have a series of switches that form a combination that must be set correctly to start the vehicle. More switches make it more difficult to figure out the correct combination. Adding dummy switches to the series just makes it incrementally more difficult to determine the correct combination. So, assuming 4 switches total in my instance—only 3 of which are actually wired to provide the ground for the relay to the ADE—I have an extra "dummy" switch. I was thinking that it would be a clever trick to play on a would-be thief if that one dummy switch was wired to some sort of alarm. As the only "stock alarm" function on the TJ is the horn, [tl;dr] I was curious if anyone has any thoughts as to how incorrectly setting the combination could cause the horn to sound in such a way that would not kill the battery if the rocker switch was left in the "on" position, e.g., if a would-be thief activated it and then split for fear of being noticed.
OP
I'm not sure how I can help you more than the schematic I posted in post #1. If you have a specific question you can PM me for a detailed answer.
I’ve relocated my starter wire. It takes the key to turn the computers on. But a separate action to actually start the vehicle.
I do not have a skim key. A thief will take what a thief wants. It’s our job to deter them as much as possible.
I do not have a skim key. A thief will take what a thief wants. It’s our job to deter them as much as possible.
I wanted to send you a PM but I couldn't find a button for it (maybe I can't because I don't have enough posts yet?) Anyways, after reading your OP a little more I'm more confident about how its supposed to look but still a little confused.
86 and 30 both get soldered to the ADE - I'm assuming one to each end after the wire is cut.
85 goes to one end of the switches which are in series and connected to ground.
87 I’m not sure about. Where does it go?
Last edited:
This is cool, thieves are rarely clever. Most are in a hurry and the time to defeat this would likely defeat their attempt. I had my old enduro wired to only start with the high beams on. It was pushed down my driveway twice but never stolen. (No garage back in those days.)
My dad told me a story about stealing his sisters VW Beetle when he was about 12 with no tools at all. He would open the trunk (engine cover), remove the spade connector from the driver tail light, and plug it into the ignition coil, turn on the headlights, then push start the car. The tailight circuit would feed the ignition eliminating the need for the key to be on. Or some variation of that. He stole it several times without her knowing, and got caught when he was stopped by a cop for having a taillight out.
My dad told me a story about stealing his sisters VW Beetle when he was about 12 with no tools at all. He would open the trunk (engine cover), remove the spade connector from the driver tail light, and plug it into the ignition coil, turn on the headlights, then push start the car. The tailight circuit would feed the ignition eliminating the need for the key to be on. Or some variation of that. He stole it several times without her knowing, and got caught when he was stopped by a cop for having a taillight out.
OP
Yes, you don't have enough posts to PM, but here goes.
The ASD wire is cut. Then the end closest to the connector is connected to relay pin 86. The other end is connected to relay pin 87 (not 87a). You will also need a jumper from the wire connected to 86 and connect it to 30. 86 and 30 will now both have 12 volts on them and when the ground is applied to relay pin 85 it will close the relay's contacts and connect pins 30 to 87 thus supplying 12 volts to the ASD relay. The ground is supplied to relay pin 85 through the switches you install. You need to make sure that the switches you use have no markings or lights telling you which way is on/off, that way you can just rotate them 180 degrees to set the "combination" you want to allow the Jeep to start.
OP
Some people have said that using 3 switches has to few combinations and a thief can figure it out in a couple minutes. I beg to differ. A thief would first need to know that there is a cutoff switch. Then he would need to know that it's the switch right there on the dash and not a hidden one like most people would install. Then they would need to know that it's a combination of all 3 switches that overrides the cutoff. I don't think any will figure all that out in a few minutes let alone a few hours.
Ahhh okay I see. The jumper wire was tripping me up. Thank you so much! Also is ASD the same as what’s called ADE in that original schematic you posted?
I agree with the combination. That’s what I like about this kill switch so much more than any other kill switch.
OP
My mom always says, "locks only stop honest thieves." If someone wants your Jeep badly enough, they'll take it. That said, I think this is a great mod and I have a series of 5 switches. 2 of which control lights and 3 of which are the combo for the kill switch. If I remember to set it, there's almost no chance someone is going to figure out why my nearly 20-year-old Jeep fails to start in the 2-3 minutes they're willing to risk being spotted and waste time actually stealing something that will start more easily. I've used kill switches since before I could drive and this is by far the best innovation (i.e., switches in the clear) that I have seen in 30 some years.