Should I change all my u-joints

FretlessTodd

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Seminole, FL
I have a newly acquired 1997 TJ. I notice a small clunk sometimes when I start off or occasionally when driving at the friction point when changing gears. I have a feeling it is a u-joint. I have no idea if the any of them have ever been replaced. Can an argument be made to change out all 7 of them at the same time, or to just do them as needed? I want to follow basic best practices.
 
Can an argument be made to change out all 7 of them at the same time, or to just do them as needed? I want to follow basic best practices.

If you can afford to change all seven, I don't know why that would be a bad thing. I'd use Spicer joints whether changing one or all.
 
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Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Not a bad idea but I'd work their shafts back & forth hard first to see if you see any movement of the u-joint bearing caps (should be none) or any dry rust coming from under any of them. Any of those should be replaced. For the axle shafts the Spicer 5-760x is a nice direct replacement that is both stronger and more durable, and for the drive shafts the same goes for the Spicer 5-1310x which is also a direct replacement that is stronger and more durable.

And a big welcome to WTF! :)
 
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If you can afford to change all seven, I don't know why that would be a bad thing. I'd use Spicer joints whether changing one or all.
Thanks for the advice guys. I think I’ll try to replace them all at the same time, just to give me some peace of mind. Not knowing how it was kept up in the past and not wanting any surprises, I think I’ll just bite the bullet and swap them all. One less thing I’d have to worry about
 
Not a bad idea but I'd work their shafts back & forth hard first to see if you see any movement of the u-joint bearing caps (should be none) or any dry rust coming from under any of them. Any of those should be replaced. For the axle shafts the Spicer 5-760x is a nice direct replacement that is both stronger and more durable, and for the drive shafts the same goes for the Spicer 5-1310x which is also a direct replacement that is stronger and more durable.

And a big welcome to WTF! :)

Hey again, so based on your several forum replies/posts I just ordered two 5-1310x for my front drive shaft and two 5-760x for my my axle shafts, since I was getting a mildly bad squeaky issue when accelerating in 4H, thank you so much, I also got an n3 steering stabilizer, do you know if it improves the ride or not, my car is 20 years old and barely anything has been changed on the underside other than custom exhaust.
 
Hey again, so based on your several forum replies/posts I just ordered two 5-1310x for my front drive shaft and two 5-760x for my my axle shafts, since I was getting a mildly bad squeaky issue when accelerating in 4H, thank you so much, I also got an n3 steering stabilizer, do you know if it improves the ride or not, my car is 20 years old and barely anything has been changed on the underside other than custom exhaust.

you say your car is 20 years old but how old is your Jeep ?
 
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The steering stabilizer won't affect your ride, its primary purpose is to help isolate the steering from bumps and jolts on the road. It's nothing more than a very basic hydraulic shock absorber so a very basic replacement like from Monroe or the Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer is all that's needed. Avoid the temptation to go with a gas-charged steering stabilizer which can tend to constantly push the steering toward the left.
 
Not sure about the advice to change all his u joints. Sounds to me as if the rear driveshaft might the problem from what he describes ? Why replace the front DS and axle u joints ??
 
Not sure about the advice to change all his u joints. Sounds to me as if the rear driveshaft might the problem from what he describes ? Why replace the front DS and axle u joints ??
It's a 27 year old vehicle, it's not too soon to think about replacing all of the u-joints when there is already a clunk apparently coming from one of them. And if the the front driveshaft's DC joint with its two u-joints seizes it can cause the transfer case to fail and literally explode. I've seen a fairly dramatic upswing in photos of transfer cases recently that had exploded from a sized DC joint on the front driveshaft. I had never heard of that problem until the last year or two and now they're appearing here and there.
 
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The steering stabilizer won't affect your ride, its primary purpose is to help isolate the steering from bumps and jolts on the road. It's nothing more than a very basic hydraulic shock absorber so a very basic replacement like from Monroe or the Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer is all that's needed. Avoid the temptation to go with a gas-charged steering stabilizer which can tend to constantly push the steering toward the left.

Wish I checked this sooner my steering is pushing to the left but I dont really care its very very very slightly, I so far changed my two front axles u joints (complete pain in the butt they were HORRIBLY rusted) I found out my front driveshafts u joints are re greaseable and have been changed before, im still thinking of changing them just because of the amount of rust theres was on the two front axles and the fact that I heard the re greasable U joints arent the best
 
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Not sure about the advice to change all his u joints. Sounds to me as if the rear driveshaft might the problem from what he describes ? Why replace the front DS and axle u joints ??

Well, the sound is coming from the front, and the rear end of the car seems relatively new-ISH, so based on that, I am attacking the front and seeing if the issue persists. as for the rattling, about 75% of it went away when I found this old rusted/rotted break line that previous owners left there and just didnt care enough to remove after putting in the new break line, for the 4wd sqeaking im not sure what that could be as the sound also comes from the front and im still sure its a front drive shaft issue