Jeep Wrangler TJ Full Electric Conversions

Should I remove the supercharger or keep it?

NYLONZ

NYLONZ

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Hi Guys - A UK TJ Fanatic here (I have 3)

Just picked up a 35,000 miles 2006 4.0L which has an Eaton M90 Supercharger fitted, along with a ECU re-map, performance headers / exhaust etc. It runs great & is the best handling, fastest TJ I've ever driven (& Ive driven many)

I can't decide whether to keep this TJ or not - never had any experience with Superchargers so wouldn't know where to start if it needed work.

My Wife absolutely loves this TJ & wants it for her daily - it's in great condition & here in the UK a rare beast.

Idealy if we were keeping I'd like to be able to remove the Charger / ECU & return it to stock.

I do not have the original parts removed to fit the Charger so how big a job is it going to be?
 
NYLONZ said:
Just concerned about reliability.
Click to expand...

They are fairly reliable as long as you keep up your maintenance on the vehicle. Use 92 octane or higher fuel.
When you are driving normal you really aren't creating much boost. Until you put your foot to the floor is when it is building boost and putting a strain on the engine.
 
A couple of pics of the setup.


Supercharger 1.webp

Supercharger 2.webp
 
You have one of the original supercharger setups. It is an Avenger supercharger and it isn't an Eaton E90 blower. This is actually a better system. I don't think they are in business anymore which would be the only issue.
Looking at the picture better it also looks like you have what they called a inner cooler. The small plate under the supercharger unit with the hose going to it.

If you decide to remove it I am sure you could sell it to someone.
 
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Wildman said:
You have one of the original supercharger setups. It is an Avenger supercharger and it isn't an Eaton E90 blower. This is actually a better system. I don't think they are in business anymore which would be the only issue.
Looking at the picture better it also looks like you have what they called a inner cooler. The small plate under the supercharger unit with the hose going to it.

If you decide to remove it I am sure you could sell it to someone.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, that's great to know. As I said I know nothing (DOH!!) & was told it was an Eaton.
It was fitted back in 2007 & has covered 20k miles since.
 
NYLONZ said:
Thanks for the info, that's great to know. As I said I know nothing (DOH!!) & was told it was an Eaton.
It was fitted back in 2007 & has covered 20k miles since.
Click to expand...

They use to be the PRIMIUM supercharger company for the TJ & YJ. They made a good product and it you shouldn't have any issues. You'll want to watch things like the bearings for the snout where the shaft for the pulley comes out. Also I think it had it's own oil reservoir so if it does make sure you change the oil on it every 30K miles.

IMHO I'd run it until you had issues with it. Since I am sure TJ parts are harder to come by in the UK I'd find a stock intake piping & air cleaner housing for just in case. And then if you have issues you can return it to stock.
 
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Run the highest octane pump gas you have available.

If it's not causing issues I'd leave it as is and replace/fix once you have issues (8psi and under of boost isn't known to cause any issues to the stock 4.0).
 
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Get an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gauge, find out what the manifold redline is ("Probably" 1200 degrees, but that's a *GUESS* on my part), and never, EVER exceed that redline even for an instant. If you've been running hard, let the engine idle for a couple or three minutes until that EGT comes down before turning it off. An oil temp gauge wouldn't hurt either, it'll tell you if you need an oil cooler or not.

I had an '87 F-250 Diesel with an aftermarket turbo. The word with that vehicle was that you could run 1199 degrees EGT all day long, but the instant it touched 1200, time to back out of it and select a lower gear. The Jeep isn't the Ford, but there's a similar number there somewhere. I don't know much about superchargers, their boost curve is different from a turbo - and its a gasoline engine too, which probably produces more heat - maybe somebody else can elucidate.
 
I wouldn't worry about an EGT sensor. If you really want peace of mind that it's all functioning correctly, you can do that with a wideband o2 sensor/afr guage, and a boost guage. AFR should be 14.7ish (or up to 15.5 in my experience) when out of boost, and in boost should enrichen to something lower, like a 12.5. Boost should be kept under 8ish unless there's been internal work done.

The addition of the intercooler/aftercooler is nice, and helps avoid detonation/knock, as does running higher octane fuel.

Personally if it runs nice, doesn't stumble or act goofy, and isn't throwing codes, I'd just enjoy it and not worry about it. The 4.0 is very tolerable to low boost levels.
 
I would keep it- find out from the PO where the work was done at - so if & when you have issues you can take it to them

And I doubt that I would make it my DD- maybe a time or two a week- like a weekend edition-- to keep all of the juices flowing. To much power for most women . Is this thing jacked up( lifted) ?
 
toximus said:
Run the highest octane pump gas you have available.

If it's not causing issues I'd leave it as is and replace/fix once you have issues (8psi and under of boost isn't known to cause any issues to the stock 4.0).
Click to expand...
Notice the oddity on the power steering pump pulley belt routing? The belt should go over the top of the charger pulley, then under and around the idler before going around the PS pulley.
 
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mrblaine said:
Notice the oddity on the power steering pump pulley belt routing? The belt should go over the top of the charger pulley, then under and around the idler before going around the PS pulley.
Click to expand...


Should be routed something similar to this? Although I don't think his has the additional idler pulley to the left. As is there's almost no wrap on the ps pulley

IMG_20200516_080748.jpg


Seems to me that would result in a vastly different belt length
 
bluescapegoat said:
Should be routed something similar to this? Although I don't think his has the additional idler pulley to the left. As is there's almost no wrap on the ps pulley

View attachment 161701
Click to expand...
Similar yes but his may not be able without the additional idler. BT had the same issue with their early kits, not enough wrap on the PS pump pulley. When I complained, I was told it wasn't an issue, don't worry about it, they do them all that way with no problem. Next generation of kit came out with more wrap.
 
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mrblaine said:
Notice the oddity on the power steering pump pulley belt routing? The belt should go over the top of the charger pulley, then under and around the idler before going around the PS pulley.
Click to expand...

The intercooler really seems to be messing with the routing by placing the nose up so high.
 

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