Slave Cylinder Bleed Screw

Glenn Hodges

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Original poster
Joined
Jun 22, 2017
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82
Location
Breinigsville, PA, United States
OK, I know this is a much talked about subject, but I cannot find a solid answer. The bleed screw on my slave cylinder is perfectly round, both on the old one and the brand new one I just bought? How the heck am I supposed to bleed this unit?

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Most are pre bled units when bought new

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Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same question. A youtube video I watched said it was an Allen wrench but I definitely haven't had one fit. The threading almost looks like there should be another piece
 
It’s ~$100 for a complete, pre-bled clutch hydraulic system. Definitely the way to go..
 
What I've found out today:

The factory one does not, I checked a few places and took it off (it had a leak and was getting air in it). You are, however, able to replace just the slave cylinder with one that has a bleed screw, and I'm also sure you could take the factory one apart and put one in the slot where it should go. You'll definitely need a 1/8" punch to get the roller pin out, and most likely someone to help you pull the cylinder off the line but it's possible.

You can take the top off the master cylinder and kind of "bleed" the slave cylinder by putting at a 45 degree angle downwards and pumping it about 20 times and rechecking the fluid level.

Someone on a different forum said they made their own slave cylinder out of a Bimba air cylinder (3/4" bore, 2" stroke, nose mounted, double acting) because it's made out of steel and theoretically more reliable/tough. At McMaster's it's part 6498K152, and you need 2x 5220K67 and 1x 5220K24 (compression tube fittings). Not sure how well it works, but it's probably just as good if not better than an auto parts store part, and cheaper too. The only issue is you need to use DOT 5.1 instead.