So many questions

TX99517

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Original poster
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Mar 2, 2021
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ALASKA
So, I have done a lot of searching and googling. This vehicle is new to us and I have clue to it’s maintenance history.
I’m going to assume, most everything is original to date in the engine.
A few things I am doing soon is to replace the thermostat and gaskets there.
already replaced the upstream O2 sensor.
I’m pretty sure the radiator is shot as there is always coolant around the top and it drips a little bit. The main hoses look ok and I don’t see any leaks. The hoses from the heater core may have a leak.
I have put in some stop leak to see what it did. Not sure it’s doing anything, but the heat seems a little better that it was.
I got some steam on the way home when I had stopped by a friends house and it was idling. Nothing while driving and it didn’t show overheated

when driving, the temp goes up to around 225-30ish, then drops down to 210 or less at idle.
Is this normal?
Oil pressure: driving its around 60-70 and 40 at idle.
Are these normal ranges?

thanks

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My temp stays a needle width either side of 210F. summer or winter.
Oil pressure is 40-50 lbs. at temp driving, and 25lbs. at idle. ( This is with 10W-30 full synthetic oil and 180000 miles.
Unless the stop leak is " Alum a seal " I wouldn't recommend it. they just cause as many issues as they address.
 
Im hoping it will fix the issue short term. I’m just wanting to hold off of work until the temps are reasonable.
Between this Jeep and the 63 bug I’m redoing, I’m gonna be broke I think
 
The right tool for the job.

You might consider using a pressure tester to troubleshoot and diagnose your cooling system. Often, they can be rented through your local auto parts shop.

Hook it up in place of the cap, pressurize the system and any leaks should become obvious pretty quickly.
 
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Thats aluminum dust and won't harm your components. We even use it here as an emergency fix for the customers who can't afford to properly fix their leaking coolant issue.

The other stop leak shit is pure trash. The brown pellets is just asking to destroy your heater core and cooling passages.

It's complete garbage.
If only there was a way to properly disgnose a leaky cooling system.... 😂
 
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For your reference, my 01 temp sits at 210 and really never varies. My oil pressure sites at 40 at idle and 50 or so when driving. After all the work I've done on it, I've come to believe that it's normal for my vehicle.
 
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Thats aluminum dust and won't harm your components. We even use it here as an emergency fix for the customers who can't afford to properly fix their leaking coolant issue.

The other stop leak shit is pure trash. The brown pellets is just asking to destroy your heater core and cooling passages.

It's complete garbage.
After running it a short time this morning, I’ve decided it definitely needs a new radiator. I could see the coolant coming out the top portion or rad and dripping down. Had to put a bucket under it.
 
Be sure to get a new radiator cap with the new radiator. Check if you have any play in your cooling fan-engine off, can you wiggle it, or does it wobble when the engine is running? If so, then it's time for a full-on coolant system replacement: all new hoses, new thermostat, new water pump, back-flush your heater core.
 
I am not a big fan of mechanic in a can. Cleaners and solvents yes. Diagnose faults and correct them directly. A Jeep cooling system is not mysterious and the components in it have a predictable shelf life. Pressure testing is superb advice, follow it. Replace old components with quality parts. I live in a hot region. We replace the fan clutch with a Hayden 2771 with great success and it is cheap and simple to do. Many overlook that item. Water pumps, T-stats, radiators and hoses are all basic items. The only difficult component to replace is the heater core. If you freshen the entire system after flushing with Thermocure, you probably won't have a worry for the next eight years if you buy quality. Cheaper components are the more expensive choice.
 
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You might wanna consider an OEM radiator. Aftermarket ones are hit or miss on quality and longevity. And a OEM cap and 195 degree Stant superstat.

The guys who go with those parts don’t have problems later.

Backflush with Thermocure, it works well and highly recommended around here.
 
Just scanned this thread.... ineffecient cooling system ...I'm guessing it has 125,000-150,000 miles ?
 
X2 with what Modoc Guy mentioned. I recently replaced rad, cap, upper/lower hoses and a Stant thermostat (195degree) and my gauge never goes over 195.
 
My 2000 with 206 K miles rides a needle width below 210 F nearly all the time,
It has it’s third radiator in 100K. OEM replaced at 100 K with aluminum two pass. A head on with a big buck smashed that at 180K & replaced with OEM.
While the radiator is out, save some effort and over time cost replacing T-stat, SERP belt, idler , and tensioner. The fan will be off too and that fan clutch will be ripe for repair.
Good luck with it!