So we bought a Jeep—2006 LJR

OK so time for an update I guess...

First, had an epic overnight snow wheeling trip up to Beckler road (US 2 Stevens Pass) with 15 other vehicles in my club new years eve. Of course snow was everywhere as the entire western washington had snow, but once we hit Beckler around 8pm we were in about 2 feet of snow. Proceeded up the hill and finally got everyone to the top at around 3:30am. I ended up strapping 3 vehicles behind me and pulling them to the top, then backing back down the trail 3/4 mile to get another 3, then doing that another time. At best guess I pulled/winched/unstuck other vehicles at least 40 times that night... we finally got home around 8:30am after I pulled a gladiator back down the top half of the pass. Happy to say my LJ was one of only 2 out of 16 vehicles to never get stuck all night.

Here is a video another club member made, you can see me pulling the first train up to the top at the 1:36 mark.


Here is a pic showing how deep the snow was AFTER the lead vehicles packed down a road... there was around 6' below the tracks based on how deep some of the tree wells were.



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So now it's time to start building now ramps for the trailer since mine were stolen. This is actually a good project for me to keep working on my welding. I also got to try out for the first time my new welder. I've been having issues getting enough penetration on 3/16" or thicker material with my little flux core welder and finally got myself a 240v/30a circuit in the garage, a new 240v welder (170a output) and set up with a gas bottle.

Before starting the ramps I did some test welds on some 1/4" pieces I cut up... here is one I welded at a 90 degree angle, then put into my press and tried to flatten... happily the steel bent before the weld was damaged at all so I think that will probably do!

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And here some pics of the first of the two ramps I'm building... using 3" C channel and 2.5" x .188 thick angle. I still need to do up the end to hang on the trailer.

I think my welds are getting better finally too, not looking as much like goobers :)


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Looks like a great trip, Dave. Man, I wish I lived closer. Your welding is coming along great.

Happy New Year to you and the wife. I hope you both are well.
 
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OK so time for an update I guess...

First, had an epic overnight snow wheeling trip up to Beckler road (US 2 Stevens Pass) with 15 other vehicles in my club new years eve. Of course snow was everywhere as the entire western washington had snow, but once we hit Beckler around 8pm we were in about 2 feet of snow. Proceeded up the hill and finally got everyone to the top at around 3:30am. I ended up strapping 3 vehicles behind me and pulling them to the top, then backing back down the trail 3/4 mile to get another 3, then doing that another time. At best guess I pulled/winched/unstuck other vehicles at least 40 times that night... we finally got home around 8:30am after I pulled a gladiator back down the top half of the pass. Happy to say my LJ was one of only 2 out of 16 vehicles to never get stuck all night.

Here is a video another club member made, you can see me pulling the first train up to the top at the 1:36 mark.


Here is a pic showing how deep the snow was AFTER the lead vehicles packed down a road... there was around 6' below the tracks based on how deep some of the tree wells were.



View attachment 301366


So now it's time to start building now ramps for the trailer since mine were stolen. This is actually a good project for me to keep working on my welding. I also got to try out for the first time my new welder. I've been having issues getting enough penetration on 3/16" or thicker material with my little flux core welder and finally got myself a 240v/30a circuit in the garage, a new 240v welder (170a output) and set up with a gas bottle.

Before starting the ramps I did some test welds on some 1/4" pieces I cut up... here is one I welded at a 90 degree angle, then put into my press and tried to flatten... happily the steel bent before the weld was damaged at all so I think that will probably do!

View attachment 301367

View attachment 301368

View attachment 301369


And here some pics of the first of the two ramps I'm building... using 3" C channel and 2.5" x .188 thick angle. I still need to do up the end to hang on the trailer.

I think my welds are getting better finally too, not looking as much like goobers :)


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View attachment 301381
Awesome trip! What do you think made the difference in you not getting stuck vs the others?
 
Awesome trip! What do you think made the difference in you not getting stuck vs the others?
Multiple factors depending on who the other was... Some had less experience, some no lockers, some lower clearance, some different tires, some air pressure.

One thing was when we all stopped to air down, everyone was doing the typical game of asking "what are you airing down to", many went to 10 or 12psi... I went down to 4, and told the rest to or they would end up airing down again half way up or less... guess what? they all ended up airing down more though most didn't go as low as 4.

Experience and understanding that with this snow spinning tires was for the most part to be avoided... things like that.
 
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Been a while since any update, been busy with work and rebuilding our basement that flooded last summer.

I did manage to get the rear diff cover replaced with an OEM style replacement cover + a rugged ridge diff cover/skid thingamajiggy.

The Rugged Ridge skid seems beefy enough and clears everything fine, but the 'bolts' that came with it were, shit. Factory torque is supposed to be used (30lbs) and these just started stripping. I ended up just grabbing 5 bolts from my bolt bin to replace them.
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Never done this before and I think it went fine but the bottom of the housing is ground down enough that there is a slight lip where the new diff cover meets it. I'm worried about it catching.

I did take it to Reiter and tried a few trails, guard did it's job and no leaks so far so... so far so good. Though that lip is in the back of my mind and I need to do something about it... maybe grind down the new lid to match the housing?

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Added something long overdue in the garage today... a fanless/dust proof PC so I can view WrantlerTJForum in the garage while working! Swing arm lets it fold away when not in use and I have a dust cover for the monitor in addition to a waterproof, dust proof, keyboard with track pad on the way from Amazon.

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Been thinking about this a lot lately and the recent thread about costs made me realize I need a plan. I will need to save up for this stuff, and it might take a while but I need to know what to save up for, how much the cost will be, what can be done in steps, in what order, what I need, etc.

Having a plan and some idea of total cost will also help me decide if I want to go this route, or buy/build some sort of Trail only rig...

Hoping maybe some of you all can help me put a plan together? :)



Jeep is typically trailered… sometimes drive on pavement but usually less than 40 miles one way. I'd say 95% off road use.

Jeep currently has:
4" + 1.25" lift (OME Springs/Shocks) + body lift
35 inch tires
Dana 44 front/rear, chromoly shafts in front, 4.88 gears, 16" BMB BBK
Tummy tuck (Savvy skids, engine, belly, gas tank)
Savvy short control arms
Currie steering
Hydro assist (PSC)
Rubicon lockers/4.0 trans/42rle auto — basically stock powertrain.

What I would like changed/improved based on limitations I've run into on the trails and things that keep me off some of the trails I want to run:
  1. A bit better approach angle (maybe… larger tires may help a bit?)
  2. better departure angle (I drag the gas tank and bumper a lot)
  3. 37-38" tires (axle clearance and roll over ability for larger rocks)
  4. More suspension travel (want to be more planted with large objects/deep holes)
  5. Roll over Safety (true roll cage w/cross bar behind seats for shoulder harnesses — but how to do this and have rear seat accessible when needed? — rear seat is NOT in the Jeep most times but would like to retain the option)

What needs to stay the same:
  1. Needs to stay street legal (ish) of course
  2. Can't get much taller (with 38's and the lift I have for example I think it will 'just' fit in the garage)
  3. Interior space — can't sacrifice too much as we load it up for overnight trips (Rubicon) etc. at times.


So big question is, how do I accomplish the things I would like changed, in the most cost/work efficient manner (hopefully doing as much of the work as I can myself)?
 
Been thinking about this a lot lately and the recent thread about costs made me realize I need a plan. I will need to save up for this stuff, and it might take a while but I need to know what to save up for, how much the cost will be, what can be done in steps, in what order, what I need, etc.

Having a plan and some idea of total cost will also help me decide if I want to go this route, or buy/build some sort of Trail only rig...


Hoping maybe some of you all can help me put a plan together? :)



Jeep is typically trailered… sometimes drive on pavement but usually less than 40 miles one way. I'd say 95% off road use.

Jeep currently has:
4" + 1.25" lift (OME Springs/Shocks) + body lift
35 inch tires
Dana 44 front/rear, chromoly shafts in front, 4.88 gears, 16" BMB BBK
Tummy tuck (Savvy skids, engine, belly, gas tank)
Savvy short control arms
Currie steering
Hydro assist (PSC)
Rubicon lockers/4.0 trans/42rle auto — basically stock powertrain.


What I would like changed/improved based on limitations I've run into on the trails and things that keep me off some of the trails I want to run:
  1. A bit better approach angle (maybe… larger tires may help a bit?)
  2. better departure angle (I drag the gas tank and bumper a lot)
  3. 37-38" tires (axle clearance and roll over ability for larger rocks)
  4. More suspension travel (want to be more planted with large objects/deep holes)
  5. Roll over Safety (true roll cage w/cross bar behind seats for shoulder harnesses — but how to do this and have rear seat accessible when needed? — rear seat is NOT in the Jeep most times but would like to retain the option)

What needs to stay the same:
  1. Needs to stay street legal (ish) of course
  2. Can't get much taller (with 38's and the lift I have for example I think it will 'just' fit in the garage)
  3. Interior space — can't sacrifice too much as we load it up for overnight trips (Rubicon) etc. at times.


So big question is, how do I accomplish the things I would like changed, in the most cost/work efficient manner (hopefully doing as much of the work as I can myself)?
My biggest complaint of my LJ is the departure angle. I'm going to stretch to improve it.
 
My biggest complaint of my LJ is the departure angle. I'm going to stretch to improve it.
So what is involved in that? guessing different or relocated gas tank at a minimum, plus what, control arm, shock, spring relocation? How far are you stretching?
 
So what is involved in that? guessing different or relocated gas tank at a minimum, plus what, control arm, shock, spring relocation? How far are you stretching?
Genright tank, midarms, coilovers, shock hoops. As far as I can go. Frame chop, extension, welding, reinforcement, genright tank modifications. Then corner armor to make it look good again.

I'll be able to tell you more about it once it's done, hoping this summer depending on parts.
 
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Genright tank, midarms, coilovers, shock hoops. As far as I can go. Frame chop, extension, welding, reinforcement, genright tank modifications. Then corner armor to make it look good again.

I'll be able to tell you more about it once it's done, hoping this summer depending on parts.
Hmm, that maybe seems a bit further than I want to go, or would be practical for me to go...

Thinking I could get some gains by just outboarding shocks with springs still, and maybe lifting bumper/tail section of frame... not what you'll be getting but maybe more in my ball park ability wise. From what I read I could do those without going mid-arm, changing gas tank, etc... but I guess the question is can I gain enough without stretching.... sigh
 
Hmm, that maybe seems a bit further than I want to go, or would be practical for me to go...

Thinking I could get some gains by just outboarding shocks with springs still, and maybe lifting bumper/tail section of frame... not what you'll be getting but maybe more in my ball park ability wise. From what I read I could do those without going mid-arm, changing gas tank, etc... but I guess the question is can I gain enough without stretching.... sigh
Depends on your definition of enough.
 
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Depends on your definition of enough.
True enough... I want to create a doable plan though, but not one that ends up making me redo shit... like if I do new axles, outboard shocks and stay with shocks/springs... how does that impact doing a stretch down the road? would I be an idiot to not just do it all at once?

I want to try to come up with a step by step (high level) plan of what to do, and I know there are a ton of variables but hey, what's life without variables? :D
 
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True enough... I want to create a doable plan though, but not one that ends up making me redo shit... like if I do new axles, outboard shocks and stay with shocks/springs... how does that impact doing a stretch down the road? would I be an idiot to not just do it all at once?

I want to try to come up with a step by step (high level) plan of what to do, and I know there are a ton of variables but hey, what's life without variables? :D
Yep and that's why instead of changing the one I had, which wouldn't have been that bad. I bought a second one to mess with so I don't have to undo anything.

You're asking the right questions. Once you nail down your goals the plan should be easy enough to figure out. I would say that if you do axles for 37's-38's, you've then got axles for 40's but you have to be more concerned with width up there.
 
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You're about to get a lot of reasons why you can't go to 37's and they will all be good reasons on why you shouldn't, but not can't. Put your plan together and go for it.
  1. A bit better approach angle (maybe… larger tires may help a bit?)
  2. better departure angle (I drag the gas tank and bumper a lot)
  3. 37-38" tires (axle clearance and roll over ability for larger rocks)
  4. More suspension travel (want to be more planted with large objects/deep holes)
  5. Roll over Safety (true roll cage w/cross bar behind seats for shoulder harnesses — but how to do this and have rear seat accessible when needed? — rear seat is NOT in the Jeep most times but would like to retain the option)
Items 1-4
Cheapest way; highline, add wheel spacers, install 37" tires, deal with the consequences via continuous maintenance.

Planned way - there are so many different ways and opinions that will result in similar. Do research, find what parts are available, what you can afford, and go. Don't get caught up in analysis paralysis.
My opinion(and not the only way):
Item 1
Install smallest and highest bumper possible, ensure it doesn't block tires from approaching.
Items 2-4
GR tank and then cut the frame and push the arch back as far as you can and still get the GR tank installed.
Do some sort of mid arm (purchased or designed) which will allow for more travel.
Outbd the rear shocks which will allow for more travel. redo front towers to allow for more travel.
Highline front fenders and highline rear (you will need to address rear anyway since you are pushing axle back).
Upgrade your axles to handle the larger tires. If you can afford it, I would go with a fabbed and built axle, but they are expensive, if you can only justify junk yard axles, do it, just understand that you are going to have to address adding locker, gearing, etc... which is going to add up in costs.
New wheels with proper backspacing to account for your newly installed wider axles.
New tires
If axles didn't come with bigger brakes, bigger brakes.

Item 5
Only carry limber rear passengers. I have an "X" behind my seat and still use the rear seat (on very limited occasions). When I do install rear seat, my son just has to climb through the cage to get into the seat. Not ideal, but pretty much the only way. He prefers to come down through the top of the cage, but when the soft top is installed he has to climb through the back or over the center console in the front. I have also ridden in the back while he was driving and I come down through the top, it is not pretty if I try to climb in from the front.
 
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Yep and that's why instead of changing the one I had, which wouldn't have been that bad. I bought a second one to mess with so I don't have to undo anything.

You're asking the right questions. Once you nail down your goals the plan should be easy enough to figure out. I would say that if you do axles for 37's-38's, you've then got axles for 40's but you have to be more concerned with width up there.
Yeah width is definitely an issue, I'd prefer to stay at or under 80" out side of tire to outside of tire... I don't want to go full 40's for multiple reasons but biggest is I could no longer get my Jeep in the Garage to work on it :D

Setting the goals is part of what I am trying to do here...
 
I just saw the New Year's Snow Ride. That is awesome!
I don't want to live in area where it is cold enough to get constant snow, but I sure do like playing in the snow!
 
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I just saw the New Year's Snow Ride. That is awesome!
I don't want to live in area where it is cold enough to get constant snow, but I sure do like playing in the snow!
We don't get 'constant' snow where I live, more like a few days a year, most of winter it hovers between 35 and 45.... but we're 60-90 minutes away from multiple mountain passes :)