Solutions for shock hitting spring perch

Which is the best way to fix shocks hitting the spring perch due to a rotated pinion?

  • add shock relocation brackets

  • clearance the spring perch

  • flip the shocks upside down

  • cut the factory ones off and weld new brackets to the axle tube


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Tob

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I'd like to hear your thoughts on these options, and if there are others that I'm missing (except shock outboarding).

I'm leaning towards clearancing the spring perch - easy and cheap, without adding leverage against the factory shock mounts. What do y'all think?
 
If your only in need of minor clearance then trimming the spring perch is going to be your best option. How much interference are you dealing with?

Lower mount relocation can change your shock travel dimensions. There are pros and cons to this.

Your shocks aren't going to mount upside-down without further modification due to the upper/ mounts being different.
 
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I'm not sure yet. I'm about to tackle a tummy tuck, but I want to have my ducks in a row so that I'm not waiting on a part order to finish the project. I'm at 3" of suspension lift and am doing a Savvy tuck, so I expect to have enough pinion angle to cause shock contact. They are already close as it sits. Thanks for the input.

Could you elaborate on the pros and cons to the mount relocation changing the shock travel dimensions?
 
Pros/ Cons being you can make your current situation better/ worse. Changing the lower shock mount can be an opportunity to perfect your shock travel bias (pro) or really screw things up if you aren't mindful of that (con).
 
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Mine needed perches clearanced as well as shocks cans up and are still pretty close to contact. 4" lj springs rear though.
 
the "pro" is to do it, the "con" is to not place it right.

do the shocks fit proper now? are they mid travel? is that the travel zone you intend to maintain?

the rotation of the pinion upward will twist the shock mount downward and open it's resting /ride height length (could be a 1/4" could be an 1") and put it into a potential contact area below the tube.

most of this equation has no answer until you see where you end up. how much rotation is forced and how much that changes the shock window at rest. then you can make a choice for trimming , bracket relocation or possibly a different shock length.
 
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The lower shock mounts are close to vertical when the axle is rotated for a DC driveshaft. It is not only hanging down lower, it is at an angle that doesn't allow the shock mounts to ramp over an obstacle.
 
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do the shocks fit proper now? are they mid travel? is that the travel zone you intend to maintain?
The shocks on right now are rancho rs5000x chosen based on them being marketed for 3” lift height.

I haven’t done much research on shocks and travel bias, but that will be the next step after tucking and setting bump stops. I don’t even have bump stops on now and I think I accidentally bottomed out the ranchos pretty hard. They are riding very badly, so I want to replace them, but I also want to do it right. It sounds like I have some more homework to do.
 
I'm not sure yet. I'm about to tackle a tummy tuck, but I want to have my ducks in a row so that I'm not waiting on a part order to finish the project. I'm at 3" of suspension lift and am doing a Savvy tuck, so I expect to have enough pinion angle to cause shock contact. They are already close as it sits. Thanks for the input.

Could you elaborate on the pros and cons to the mount relocation changing the shock travel dimensions?
I ran 3" SL and full Savvy TT, and had clearance issues with the shock body contact and rubbing the perch. I used shock extension brackets initially, and later I removed them and trimmed the perches.

Also, be thinking through what you want to do with the exhaust. It gets dicey back there with the added issue of the rear TB. I had mine chopped and it basically comes out of the stock muffler and curves 90* down, but they also angled it slightly away from the diff, so the hot air does hit my passenger parking brake cable and melted the outer portion. The brake still works, but it's not perfectly smooth. I'm going to replace and put some heat tape on that part of the cable. I suspect if they turned the exhaust slightly toward the diff this would not have been an issue, but then the diff might heat up. I think the best solution is a shorter muffler so the exhaust pipe is farther away from both.
 
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The shock mount extension brackets are a pro if when you rotate your pinion your shocks are now too short. For me my pinion was so rotated that I had a good bit more uptravel than down travel. The relocation brackets decreased uptravel and increased downtravel by 3/4” respectively pushing me closer to a 50/50 travel bias.

They are a con if you lose uptravel to the point where you no longer have at least 50% of your travel as uptravel.

They are also a con because they put more leverage on the shock mount increasing chances of bending or shearing it off. I just checked mine and my mounts are now bent as hell. I will probably end up just getting a set of shock mounts and welding them on where my travel is 50/50 which to me is the optimal fix for this problem.
 
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The shocks on right now are rancho rs5000x chosen based on them being marketed for 3” lift height.

I haven’t done much research on shocks and travel bias, but that will be the next step after tucking and setting bump stops. I don’t even have bump stops on now and I think I accidentally bottomed out the ranchos pretty hard. They are riding very badly, so I want to replace them, but I also want to do it right. It sounds like I have some more homework to do.
Setting up bump stops is one of those projects that makes a lot more sense after you dive into it and start making observations. Have fun, be patient with it and you'll be happy with the results.
 
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Setting up bump stops is one of those projects that makes a lot more sense after you dive into it and start making observations. Have fun, be patient with it and you'll be happy with the results.
One question on that. Should I buy a bumpstop kit or DIY it? I noticed the Currie bump stops ditch the factory cup and foam. Should I keep those pieces if I DIY it?
 
That kind of depends on your preference. I built my own using longer jounce bumpers, aluminum bar stock and washers.

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