Someguys 04

[someguysjeep]

nope, it won't go back that far without some major trimming, and my piece is not worth the work. the CM has the orange cancer and i have new steel to replace it all and it'll be easier to just fab it with new materials.

my new risers seem to fit right on the $. but b4 reconstruction begins i wanna wire whip the remaining frame tube and retreat it internally. i hosed it all out, best i could until i rig up a whip.

 

[someguysjeep]

today i stayed a little late at the shop to cut n bend the rear portion of the frame. i think i can make it work.

plz pipe in if something looks askew.

@toximus, since you did similar, what ya think?

the underside body mount is just about perfect inside the rail, it'll be easy to hang a mount. i'll have to work out the rear as i go along.

cleaned and hosed out the frame real good, got out a couple old skid nutserts out too. going over to Eastwood after work tomrw to grab some inner frame coating.

 

[toximus]

Make sure you have room for the rear antisway bar to go across.

 

[someguysjeep]

Make sure you have room for the rear antisway bar to go across.

went back and peeked your thread. i see a few differences, even with the info there i try not to copy stuff. i really wanna figure this out on my own.

alright i could add in about 6" of spacer to shove my riser back, and jump over the Ebrake bracket with the AR shaft. similar to what you did.

 

[toximus]

Or just cut a hole in your riser and shove a section of tube in for the bar to go through. Although that's not as forgiving if you want to move it.

 

[someguysjeep]

stopped off at the Eastwood store today. the sales rep answered a few questions for me.
1 my frame was green inside when i purchased it. i believe it had this frame coating prior.
my applications of fluid film destroyed it, and now that the frame tube is nice and oily, another application would not adhere.
so either i degrease the inside of the frame or stick with an oil based product is what they recommend.
if i clean it and coat it, they suggest not using fluid film once the coating is applied, so that would negate any future use as well.

 

[toximus]

3M recommends body cavity wax. Just an idea.

 

[Feralkid]

stopped off at the Eastwood store today. the sales rep answered a few questions for me.
1 my frame was green inside when i purchased it. i believe it had this frame coating prior.
my applications of fluid film destroyed it, and now that the frame tube is nice and oily, another application would not adhere.
so either i degrease the inside of the frame or stick with an oil based product is what they recommend.
if i clean it and coat it, they suggest not using fluid film once the coating is applied, so that would negate any future use as well.

Fluid film destroyed internal frame coating, how? I tried to clean that stuff up and even harsh solvents did nothing to it.

 

[toximus]

Fluid film destroyed internal frame coating, how? I tried to clean that stuff up and even harsh solvents did nothing to it.

If you're looking for a chemical, I found one that works. Also causes cancer. Lmk and I'll find the name.

 

[someguysjeep]

Fluid film destroyed internal frame coating, how? I tried to clean that stuff up and even harsh solvents did nothing to it.

not really sure.........i do know the fluid film states it can penetrate paint, and that is part of why it works, it saturates into everything.
some mumbo jumbo about molecular level penetration IIRC.

and it's quite possible the PO tried to cover an oil based product and failed. but when i got this rig the inside was green and smooth as glass, except for a few areas right around the access holes. and that i'd bet it from a crap application not over running the spray patterns past the last access hole. when they got off the trigger it cannot cover the area behind where you inserted the head, you have to overlap that point at the next insertion.

the few spots of rust i do have internally i'm gonna blast with acid gel and run a brush up into the tubes. and i have 2gl of fluid film on hand already.

 

[someguysjeep]

3M recommends body cavity wax. Just an idea.

ya, the rep pointed me at a lanolin wax. says it'll not suffer from a previous oil application like a paint or coating would.

i'll get paint inside all the new tube, b4 weld in. then it'll get what the rest gets over that. some paint will be a casualty of the welder. i'll try to retouch it b4 capping the ends.

 

[someguysjeep]

alright. that was a huge PITA to remove brackets i welded to never come loose. but the axle is clean of everything but the LCA brackets. and the new truss is lookin like it'll work, i left 1/4" of space off the diff crown.

tomrw i tear apart the Ebrake to get at that loose stud with the welder. and then the shafts are out, and it's ready to be stripped out and regeared. they're puttin us on OT next wk , so i might farm out this regear.

 

[someguysjeep]

i got the axle primed, so it can't start to rust on me. got those shafts pulled. that shitty flange bolt let go when i got the ebrake out of the way and could get a vice grip on it.
i also tweeked the truss a little more, it was looking just a bit off by my eye. it's ready to go.

then i got under the rig to do the nasty. wire wheeled it and its'getting its 1st acid bath right now. it's gonna be a rinse and go back at anything still orange with the wire wheel again. repeat until clean.

 

[someguysjeep]

well 3 rounds later its done...... new flat black over everything i disturbed. and it's got no sign of orange under there for another yr at least i hope. it's in my head that as long as it remains in Ohio this rust is an every yr chore.

i slid the axle under there at roughly +11" and laid a couple links up to see whats gonna be.

 

[someguysjeep]

7" of rain in the last 7hrs. it's like a monsoon outside. and dumb ass me left all my crap set up outside around the rig, because they called for 40% chance of passing afternoon showers, and i wanted an early start this morn.

SHIT HAPPENS.

i got confirmation on a JK TB i found yesterday. it's a Steinjager. it's design looks like it could keep me from using another homemade version. this bar mounted a from the C on the axle will conform tight over my diff at full stuff with no profile above the truss. allowing the dif cover to be placed up close to the pitman radius.

1 that i made up vs the 1 i found. the frame joint doesn't bother me i've moved to a double shear mount already and need a non-moving joint to keep it oriented correctly. the axle end can be changed.

 

[someguysjeep]

emptied the tool box today and drained it out, still got tools all over drying..............think i might have lost my hand band saw, we''ll see after it has few days to dry. all the new bare steel had orange spots b4 the rain even stopped yest. got all that cleaned up.

didn't leave much time to play, but did manage to get my links cut and bungs tacked (misplaced a jamb nut, i gotta find). also got my link mounts for the bridge made up, also just tacked....... i hate pullin on somethin it slides and you catch it in the melon. not sure about the positioning yet (set them about 22.5*), but i need it to stay while i play around.

 

[5632]

I am a big user and beliver of triangulated 4 bar suspension. It is nice to see you do that. Do you think small area of the welding to the axle housing alone will be strong enough?

 

[someguysjeep]

I am a big user and beliver of triangulated 4 bar suspension. It is nice to see you do that. Do you think small area of the welding to the axle housing alone will be strong enough?

works for my 3 link up front, so far so good. that 3/8 plate encompasses 1/2 the tube radius (about 12" of weld). and i have a 1/2 clamshell under the tube that it'll get connected to as well........... and if i feel the need i have a plate that will grab the top 3 diff bolts, and i can fit that up from behind.
that seam you see along the length of my tubes is a 3" 1/4 wall tube cut in 1/2 and welded on.
i do a little welding at work and trust what i can lay down.

 

[someguysjeep]

the new frame rails are gonna pop out under and inline with the bottom sill seams/edges of the gate. this will give me a 32" BF (between frame).
i made up my new cross member and mag drilled some good size holes to have access to treat the inside to keep it clean.
i've also added holes into the new frame sections for the same reason. and a couple 9/16 at the bottom of the back end on each tube. those 2, i'm gonna weld in a 1/2" gr8 nut, to capture the bumper hardware.

toximus reminded me i need to leave space to sneak and anti rock through there. but i'm waiting for my hoops to arrive and i may try and fit it in from behind the axle if i can keep the struts away from the frame it'll work. the axle is long enough to aid this.

pea soup fog all day today, so pics ain't worth a piss right now i'll get some up when able.

 

[someguysjeep]

today i made a big push. got all the back 1/2 pieces primed and a 1st coat onto everything , avoiding the weld areas. then was able to get it all mocked in and tacked up. and even got about 60% of the welding done.

i really need those shock hoops soon, and they went out 3dys after the order and have a 6d transit time? i hope thats an over estimate, due to the rona.