Sound Deadening 101

Moab

TJ Expert
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El Segundo, California
This post is in two parts. PART 1 - is if you want to use Home Depot or Hardware Store sound deadener. Part 2 - if you want to use real sound deadener. Both parts if your unsure which you'd like to use. But jump to whichever part is applicable - if you've already made up your mind.

So I wrote this post on a VW forum a few years ago. This is the first post in the thread. And covers everything you ever wanted to know about sound deadening.

The chart is especially helpful. But keep in mind. I updated this thread as I gained more knowledge. I started wanting to use Home Depot Peal & Seal (See PART1.). But I ended up going with Second Skin Audio and EZ Cool (See PART 2.).

So the PART 1 starts off with me praising Home Depot sound deadener. And then changing my mind in PART 2. And praising real materials like Second Skin (Or Noice on Amazon.). But it's still valuable information. As you may decide Home Depot sound deadener or any number of other real sound deadeners is right for you.


Sound Deadening 101:

So here's the long version of my journey:

Some say that the asphalt based ones are bad for you. Like Peal & Seal. Others say they have used it with great results and no fear of off gassing or it melting and oozing out all over the place. Some say not to use any sound deadener on the inside of the roof. As normal heat will make it melt and stain your headliner.

Even Dynamat will do this according to various posts I read. Some have used Quick Roof. Like in the video below. While others have recently posted that the "new" version of it sucks. And that the adhesive is not good.

After lengthy reading I was steering towards Quick Roof. But if the adhesive now sucks. I'm not so sure I would.

I was concerned about the off gassing of asphalt based ones. But am looking for the best - cheap - alternative to Dynamat. Which you'll see is WAY overpriced. I'm not building a show car. Or one to compete in sound system contests. Just a daily driver that I would love to be as quiet as possible. Without spending a ton of money that could be better spent someplace else on the vehicle.

But again, the many topics on here sway between "asphalt is going to kill you" to "asphalt based products like Peal & Seal are the cats meow!".

What currently is being used and recommended? Brand name? Place to purchase? Prices? How much did you use - single layer? Dual layer? Is there anything as cheap as Quick Roof that is not asphalt based? Is Quick Roof asphalt based? How are cheaper products like Quick Roof holding up? Now that you've had it installed for some period of time?

(This is a link to a very good YT video on Home Depot sound deadener.)


If you don't want to read any further. I'm going with Second Skin Damplifier Pro, EZ Cool, and carpet. But please check out Noico on Amazon. It's come up since I wrote this. And may be a better contender than Second Skin. I'll let you be the judge. I don't speak about it in this how to as it wasn't out when I wrote this. Here's one link to it on Amazon. There are many different versions for sale there though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/?tag=wranglerorg-20


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PART 1:

Home Depot Sound Deadener (What I planned to do first. For those guys on a tight budget. Not a hot climate. And want to use the cheaper hardware store stuff.):

Having researched the hell out of this issue. And read the many comments in here and all the other threads on Samba and throughout the internet. I'm definitely leaning towards one layer of (asphalt based roof repair tape) Frost King/Quick Roof/Peel & Seal - whichever is thickest at the time I buy at my local HD or Lowes.

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(I steered away from Dynamat and it's many derivatives. As it was just to expensive. And far to many other people have had success with the cheap asphalt based products at your local big box hardware store. I've read some complaints. Never seen one pic where the asphalt based stuff ruined a car. But many many pictures where it worked perfectly. And reports back years later that it was still working fine.

There just isn't enough hard evidence against this stuff for me not to save the money and use it. Asphalt based stuff will be in the sub $100 range. Whereas Dynamat is in the several hundreds of dollars range.

There are fears of the asphalt off gassing bad things into your car. But my philosophy is we've been driving around with tar boards (asphalt) affixed to the floors and door panels of our rides for years. And driving around in cities filled with petrol burning engines spewing out god knows what into our lungs. I don't think this stuff - covered in other materials - will add that much to what we are already subjecting ourselves to.

But if money is not an issue. Take a good look at the butyl based products. As they don't have those issues. Just my two cents.)

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So after a layer of Frost King or Quick Roof or Peel & Seal I plan to put down a layer of EZ Cool. Here's everything you ever wanted to know about EZ Cool (go back to it's homepage for even more info and ordering - there's a faq and customer testimonials. This guy also has over 3000 good marks on ebay from satisfied customers. It's used throughout the auto restoration world) - http://www.lobucrod.com/Sr Project Report1.htm That link takes you to an indepth study of EZ Cool. But EZ Cool is now http://www.carinsulation.com/ So read the info at the first link. And order it at the second.

EZ Cool is a "foam" bubble pack material covered in foil. That cuts 98% of heat transfer and a large DB loss in sound coming through. And it's fire retardant. Or sufficiently enough. Relectix does the same thing for heat retardation. But not so much for sound retardation. As it's just a "plastic" bubble wrap material - not foam - covered in aluminum. So I chose the EZ cool. It's $145 for 200sq ft. Which is overkill. That would do a bug twice over. Meaning two layers. But I do intend to double layer it over the engine compartment (on the inside) and in the doors and rear quarters. Maybe even triple inside the rear quarters. In place of a free floating plastic encased pillow of insulation.

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Then headliner and carpet throughout. I think this gives you the best of all worlds. With heat reduction and sound reduction on every part of the vehicle.

I am convinced I will be fine using the Lowes/HD stuff on my roof. IF I PREPARE the surfaces correctly. You can't just rip out the insulation and whatever else is stuck to your floor, walls and roof. And expect it to stay. Your surfaces need to be cleaned and prepped with acetone or some other cleaner. To make it fully ready to adhere to.

I'm also covering it with EZ Cool. So perhaps that will even better insure it against running or dripping onto my headliner. If your fearful you could get just enough butyl based product to do the roof. And then do the rest in the cheaper Lowes/HD stuff.

I hope this helps someone else in the same situation here as I am. Trying to decide how to insulate their vehicle prior to doing a new interior. Do your own research. Butyl vs asphalt based sound deadeners is where you want to start. There's alot of information out there. But I think after reading all of it. You'll come to similar conclusions.

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PART 2:


Real Sound Deadener Materials (And why I changed my mind about Home Depots brands):

Here's my conclusion. So you don't have to read the entire thread. Although there is some great info throughout:

So I went to my local Lowes and Home Depot today. To look at various products i.e. - Useal and Peal & Seal (I could not find Quick Roof. Except Quick Roof Ultra Bond.).

And I have to say I was not impressed.

None of them seemed to be even a millimeter thick. Very paper thin aluminum. And very paper thin asphalt. One was even bleeding black asphalt liquid inside the wrapping. Just sitting on the shelf. Or from during storage or shipment. None of them seemed like they would provide very much sound deadening at all. I guess I was expecting more.

I'm spending at least $1500 on a new interior to go over this stuff. And I just don't see myself using it. Maybe they stopped making the good stuff? I don't know. All I know, is that I wouldn't put any of the material I saw today on my vehicle. I'll bite the bullet and spend the extra $225 (Probably closer to $150 if you used Noico.) and put real sound deadening material down.

I was looking at $150 worth of one of them and a bunch of aluminum tape to cover leaky seams. I can get real sound deadener for $375 (112 sq. ft.) shipped to me. That's a difference of only $225. I think I'm going to spend the money. And not worry about whether I'm going to get black gunk all over my shiny new white interior. (Again Noico is even cheaper. Which brings the distance between hardware brand and real sound deadener much closer.)

There's always that old saying that comes creeping back in - "buy once, cry once". And after seeing what I saw today. I definitely felt like I would be crying one day soon. (Again check out Noico on Amazon. PRobably a better deal than all of these. But I have not compared Noico's stats to the chart below. And you don't need nearly this much material for a Jeep. So ignore those numbers above. I think someone stated that you could do your Jeep with about $150 worth of Noico.)

But I wasn't going to let this get me down. Following this turn of events. I went back to the drawing board. And started researching real sound deadeners. And I found this very helpful chart. Basically the thicker the material. The more sound deadening:

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My choice is the Raamat BXT II. As it's the thickest with the cheapest price. Sort of a sweet spot. I couldn't find Audio Technix 60. Or I might have sprung for that stuff. It's a wee bit thicker. But I couldn't find it locally. Or even anyplace on line that sells it. And frankly I like the light shade of grey that the Raamat comes in. As if it does leak. It won't be as bad as black.

So does Quick Roof and Peal & Seal work? I think it does. For some folks. And I wouldn't be afraid to put it on in a northern climate. But I live in Socal. And I have a black car. Yes. A "black" car. It absorbs heat. And for all the trouble it takes to clean the interior of your car. And to put in a new interior. I just don't see this as a place to cut corners.

I'm going with Raamat, EZ Cool, carpet. And call it a day.

UPDATE - There's a black friday sale on all Second Skin products. So I'm going with Second Skin Damplifier Pro. 80 sq ft for $270. And it's rated higher than Raamat. Still sticking with the EZ Cool and carpet though.

CONCLUSION:

If you've read this far. You deserve a medal. lol. I tried to edit it as best I could. This was a long research project. That started with Home Depot brands and ended with real sound deadener like Second Skin or Noico from Amazon. I would not hesitate to use Noico today. But I have about 40lbs of Second Skin sitting in my garage from my VW project that never happened. And another large amount of EZ Cool. The carpet padding is not necessary in a Jeep. Unless you want some extra padding under your feet.

So to recap I would use Noico or Second Skin, then a layer of EZ Cool or http://www.carinsulation.com/ Same stuff. The EZ Cool goes down on top of your sound deadener with 3M adhesive spray. Then your carpet.

Prices above are WAY more than you need to spend for a Jeep. As all you really want to cover is the tub, firewall and doors. And/or the roof of your hard top if you have one. I have not done my Jeep yet. So I don't know how much it takes. I'm guessing somewhere in the 50 sq ft region. But I could be off on that.

You don't have to use the EZ Cool either. If your not concerned about insulation. Then just do the sound deadener of your choice. But it will help keep the cool or heat in and cool or heat out. Just like any other insulation. Depending on the season. And how much heat your engine, transmission or muffler put off against the tub.

You can also double up on this stuff. MEaning two layers. And Second Skin has a product called "B" grade. It's basically just roll ends and cut pieces. That's much cheaper. But again Check out Noico. I've read very good stuff about it.

The bottom line is guys have been pleased with the sound deadening of both. To what degree real sound deadener deadens vs how much hardware brand stuff does is hard to say. But I am convinced that the thicker real sound deadener in the 80mil range is the stuff you want. It's not that much more than the hardware stuff. And why take the risk of the hardware stuff offgasing or sliding off. Or generally making a mess of things. Remember - once this goes on it's not coming off.
 
Awesome write-up!

I used this one:
How to sound deaden the interior of your TJ

However, I didn't just add the Noico 80 mil, I aldo added the Noico 170 mil top layer as well. Needless to say, you should take a ride in my TJ and hear how much quieter it is!

I like your new pic!

Ya. It's all subjective I think. Someone that's been running a bare tub for years. Lays down some home depot stuff. And it probably sounds like night and day. Seriously. Then someone with carpet lays down Noico and is equally blown away.

Having said that. I think I if I did it again. I'd go with Noico. The difference between these materials is thickness IMHO. So I say go for whats the cheapest. Plus it sounds like quality stuff.

I'll be interested to see what the EZ Cool does for me. If you took the time to read it's many spec sheets and scientific tests. It would blow you away. But I also don't live in a very hostile climate. Like not to hot and not to cold. But I think I will notice how much heat comes up thru the tub. And it will further deaden the sound. The only drawback is you have to us spray adhesive. But I figure the Second Skin is adhered for life. So who cares? lol. Plus the stuff is WAY light. So no added weight to the vehicle. Unlike the Second Skin and other butyl sound deadeners.
 
I like your new pic!

Ya. It's all subjective I think. Someone that's been running a bare tub for years. Lays down some home depot stuff. And it probably sounds like night and day. Seriously. Then someone with carpet lays down Noico and is equally blown away.

Having said that. I think I if I did it again. I'd go with Noico. The difference between these materials is thickness IMHO. So I say go for whats the cheapest. Plus it sounds like quality stuff.

I'll be interested to see what the EZ Cool does for me. If you took the time to read it's many spec sheets and scientific tests. It would blow you away. But I also don't live in a very hostile climate. Like not to hot and not to cold. But I think I will notice how much heat comes up thru the tub. And it will further deaden the sound. The only drawback is you have to us spray adhesive. But I figure the Second Skin is adhered for life. So who cares? lol. Plus the stuff is WAY light. So no added weight to the vehicle. Unlike the Second Skin and other butyl sound deadeners.

It is subjective indeed. A lot of people said to go with the Dynamat, but it's considerably more expensive than the Noico, and all the comparisons I read on the two rated them as almost equal.

My TJ isn't quiet like a Lexus by any means, but it's a huge improvement over how it was with just bare metal floor pans, that's for sure. The other thing is that it definitely holds in the heat and keeps out the cold much, much more.

Anyways, I'll be interested to see what the EZ Cool does for you, so be sure to let us know.

I would say with all of this sound dampening material, I added a good 50 lbs. to the vehicle. It weighs way more than I thought it would!
 
It is subjective indeed. A lot of people said to go with the Dynamat, but it's considerably more expensive than the Noico, and all the comparisons I read on the two rated them as almost equal.

My TJ isn't quiet like a Lexus by any means, but it's a huge improvement over how it was with just bare metal floor pans, that's for sure. The other thing is that it definitely holds in the heat and keeps out the cold much, much more.

Anyways, I'll be interested to see what the EZ Cool does for you, so be sure to let us know.

I would say with all of this sound dampening material, I added a good 50 lbs. to the vehicle. It weighs way more than I thought it would!

Ya. It's heavy stuff for sure. I couldn't believe how heavy the boxes were when they came. I agree with you. I think each of my two boxes is 30-35lbs each.

I really like that mat you put down over your sound deadener. That stuff will cut down on sound and outside noise big time. My "mat" is the EZ Cool stuff. Not nearly as sound proofing as that stuff you used. But maybe a bit better at insulating. I'd have to see the specs on yours. Was it self adhesive? Looked like great stuff.

My Jeep's at the transmission shop. I find out tomorrow if it's a $300 sensor or a $1200 rebuild! If it's a rebuild. The only mod I'm going to be working on for a while is the sound deadener. Because I already have it. lol. That and some painting of parts.
 
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Ya. It's heavy stuff for sure. I couldn't believe how heavy the boxes were when they came. I agree with you. I think each of my two boxes is 30-35lbs each.

I really like that mat you put down over your sound deadener. That stuff will cut down on sound and outside noise big time. My "mat" is the EZ Cool stuff. Not nearly as sound proofing as that stuff you used. But maybe a bit better at insulating. I'd have to see the specs on yours. Was it self adhesive? Looked like great stuff.

My Jeep's at the transmission shop. I find out tomorrow if it's a $300 sensor or a $1200 rebuild! If it's a rebuild. The only mod I'm going to be working on for a while is the sound deadener. Because I already have it. lol. That and some painting of parts.

That extra layer I put down on top is also nice because it's black, so it hides the reflective layer of the sound deadening material beneath it. It is self-adhesive, and very sticky. I also found it's very easy to mold given how thick it is. definitely worth the extra money if you ask me.

Hopefully you're just dealing with a transmission sensor. Although I will say, $1200 for a rebuild isn't bad. To have the transmission rebuilt on any modern vehicle (i.e. a BMW), would be upwards of $3500.
 
That's the one good thing about SEcond Skin is it's black. How much did you pay for that top mat stuff?

Ya. I thought those prices for a trans repair were pretty cheap. And the guys been around a long time. I think I finally hit the inside track of nice mechanics in my area. Both my now regular mechanic and this guy are solid dudes. Who charge a very fair rate. They aren't in the best part of town. But I think that's good. Most of the shops in my area are hardcore salesmen. These guys don't try to sell you on anything. Just great craftsman who enjoy their work. And it shows in their business success.

I'm so tired of small business trying to use these hardcore corporate pricing tactics to get you to buy more. Even my old plumber had an upsell program. These guys I'm using now are just straight up craftsman. Who could care less about doing anything else but what's broken. Or needs repairing. Only took me a couple decades. But I found them. lol. I mean I've had pretty good guys in the past. And I still have a local mechanic right down the road. But he's limited in what he can do. I still take really simple stuff there from time to time. And he charges a fair rate too. But not a full service shop by any means.

Slowly getting my huge double garage/shop cleaned out. Soon I hope to be doing some of this myself. If you saw my tools and compressor etc. etc. You'd see that I could easily do alot of this myself. Back willing. HAd three back surgeries and that holds me back sometimes. Certainly doing all the painting myself now. Just wish I had the shop cleaned out enough that I could pull the jeep in. We've just got so much furniture to get rid of. That takes up most of the space. I used to do all this myself before the surgeries.
 
Thanks for the write-up! Are there any appreciable differences in noise if you're running a soft top? I've thought of picking up and running a hardtop during the winter months, but it'd only be something I'd get if I had no other projects left on my Jeep to work/fund (HA!).
 
Hey there. Glad to see so many others interested in this topic with their TJ's!

Honestly, if someone is really after quality sound deadening, I would never recommend the home improvement store products for this purpose. Here is why:
  1. Quality: most have never held these products in their hand alongside the Noico 80 or other equivalent quality butyl sound deadening product. Once you have, there is an obvious difference in thickness, density, and elasticity. It can keep its shape and thickness after heated, stepped on etc. The home improvement products are not designed to be a "constrained layer damper" like the proper butyl sound deadening mats.
  2. Price: the price difference isn't that much between these two product classes. If someone is going spend 8+ hrs removing carpet, seats, console, cleaning the tub, and laying down new material on the tub, the Noico 80 will only cost approximately $50 more than most of the cheaper products. In fact, you would likely do better installing the proper butyl sound deadening mats over 50% of the tub area for a similar cost (partial coverage can still be very effective with sound deadening mats). Or, if $50 more is really is an issue for this project, do the firewall and front foot wells first. Then, come back later and do the back of the tub later.
That said, I am not saying that noise and vibration won't be reduced with the home improvement products. These products are just better suited for their intended purpose and really don't hold a candle to the Noico 80 when it comes to "value" in this segment.
 
Hey there. Glad to see so many others interested in this topic with their TJ's!

Honestly, if someone is really after quality sound deadening, I would never recommend the home improvement store products for this purpose. Here is why:
  1. Quality: most have never held these products in their hand alongside the Noico 80 or other equivalent quality butyl sound deadening product. Once you have, there is an obvious difference in thickness, density, and elasticity. It can keep its shape and thickness after heated, stepped on etc. The home improvement products are not designed to be a "constrained layer damper" like the proper butyl sound deadening mats.
  2. Price: the price difference isn't that much between these two product classes. If someone is going spend 8+ hrs removing carpet, seats, console, cleaning the tub, and laying down new material on the tub, the Noico 80 will only cost approximately $50 more than most of the cheaper products. In fact, you would likely do better installing the proper butyl sound deadening mats over 50% of the tub area for a similar cost (partial coverage can still be very effective with sound deadening mats). Or, if $50 more is really is an issue for this project, do the firewall and front foot wells first. Then, come back later and do the back of the tub later.
That said, I am not saying that noise and vibration won't be reduced with the home improvement products. These products are just better suited for their intended purpose and really don't hold a candle to the Noico 80 when it comes to "value" in this segment.

Mots is absolutely right. The reason I switched to real sound deadener was holding the Home Depot stuff in my hands. It's just to thin and runny. Makes more for a mess than anything else. I know people have had good results. But if you went with Noico you'd have way better results. And you wouldn't have to worry about the comments above.

I also did not go into the price differences between hardware stuff and Noico. It's so close there really is little savings to be had. And the pluses of a product like Noico is great. It won't smell. It won't run as easily. It will stand up to everyday walking on it. And it's not asphalt based which can offgas bad things into your lungs. I would just use the Noico. Or anything else on sale. Second Skin is really good stuff. And goes on sale alot. They also sell the "B" roll ends for alot less too. Which would work fine in a small Jeep.

And Mots is also right about coverage. You don't have to cover the ENTIRE surface to get good results. A large swath on each area or panel can give you huge gains in sound reduction and vibration reduction.
 
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Thanks for the write-up! Are there any appreciable differences in noise if you're running a soft top? I've thought of picking up and running a hardtop during the winter months, but it'd only be something I'd get if I had no other projects left on my Jeep to work/fund (HA!).

I think most of the guys on here that have done it are running soft tops. SO I would say yes. A big difference. Most modern cars come with some sort of sound deadening material in them. Not so with Jeeps. SO your going to be going from a bare pan of metal. To one sound proofed and heat proofed. You should notice a big difference in sound in cab. And a big difference in heat and cold transfer. If you get a hard top. I would do it the same way. Sound deadener, maybe some sound mat or EZ Cool and then your carpet or whatever your using for headliner. I personally on a hard top would use EZ Cool as its an insulator. And you really want to stop that heat from coming in thru that usually black roof.

Further, alot of road noise and engine/driveline noise comes up thru the floor. Sound proofing that will help alot. Soft top or hard. And the pan itself is like a big drum. It vibrates as sound and road noise bounces off of it. Putting the sound deadener on it turns that drum into a dull thud. Like a really nice cars door shutting. Instead of sounding like a thin metal door hitting against metal. Once you do your doors you'll notice the difference just shutting them. It will sound like a more solid door. With a nice dull thud when you close it. Instead of a tin-y sound.
 
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I think most of the guys on here that have done it are running soft tops. SO I would say yes. A big difference. Most modern cars come with some sort of sound deadening material in them. Not so with Jeeps. SO your going to be going from a bare pan of metal. To one sound proofed and heat proofed. You should notice a big difference in sound in cab. And a big difference in heat and cold transfer. If you get a hard top. I would do it the same way. Sound deadener, maybe some sound mat or EZ Cool and then your carpet or whatever your using for headliner. I personally on a hard top would use EZ Cool as its an insulator. And you really want to stop that heat from coming in thru that usually black roof.

Further, alot of road noise and engine/driveline noise comes up thru the floor. Sound proofing that will help alot. Soft top or hard. And the pan itself is like a big drum. It vibrates as sound and road noise bounces off of it. Putting the sound deadener on it turns that drum into a dull thud. Like a really nice cars door shutting. Instead of sounding like a thin metal door hitting against metal. Once you do your doors you'll notice the difference just shutting them. It will sound like a more solid door. With a nice dull thud when you close it. Instead of a tin-y sound.
A nice added addition to the sound deadener if you have a soft top would be hot hot heads head liner made for soft tops. There a little pricey it the sure do work wonders. You still have full use to flip the top back with this headliner. And it’s made in America!
268FBC9C-70FE-420E-B02F-73F69C144F4F.jpeg
 
Awesome write-up!

I used this one:
How to sound deaden the interior of your TJ

However, I didn't just add the Noico 80 mil, I aldo added the Noico 170 mil top layer as well. Needless to say, you should take a ride in my TJ and hear how much quieter it is!
Did you do your hard top? Do you think that if I ONLY did the hard top it would make a significant difference? I feel like by far the most noise is coming in through the hard top. Sounds like wind coming in under the hard top where it meets the top of the windshield (it's not).
 
Did you do your hard top? Do you think that if I ONLY did the hard top it would make a significant difference? I feel like by far the most noise is coming in through the hard top. Sounds like wind coming in under the hard top where it meets the top of the windshield (it's not).

I didn't do my hardtop. However, given how much of a difference it made doing the rest of the interior, I'm sure the hardtop would have made even more of a difference!
 
I think doing the hardtop would help considerably. It seems to resonate a frequency at freeway speeds. Dampening that has got to help some me thinks. Hard part is finding a material and a glue that will stay stuck.
 
It is subjective indeed. A lot of people said to go with the Dynamat, but it's considerably more expensive than the Noico, and all the comparisons I read on the two rated them as almost equal.

My TJ isn't quiet like a Lexus by any means, but it's a huge improvement over how it was with just bare metal floor pans, that's for sure. The other thing is that it definitely holds in the heat and keeps out the cold much, much more.

Anyways, I'll be interested to see what the EZ Cool does for you, so be sure to let us know.

I would say with all of this sound dampening material, I added a good 50 lbs. to the vehicle. It weighs way more than I thought it would!
Hey there. Glad to see so many others interested in this topic with their TJ's!

Honestly, if someone is really after quality sound deadening, I would never recommend the home improvement store products for this purpose. Here is why:
  1. Quality: most have never held these products in their hand alongside the Noico 80 or other equivalent quality butyl sound deadening product. Once you have, there is an obvious difference in thickness, density, and elasticity. It can keep its shape and thickness after heated, stepped on etc. The home improvement products are not designed to be a "constrained layer damper" like the proper butyl sound deadening mats.
  2. Price: the price difference isn't that much between these two product classes. If someone is going spend 8+ hrs removing carpet, seats, console, cleaning the tub, and laying down new material on the tub, the Noico 80 will only cost approximately $50 more than most of the cheaper products. In fact, you would likely do better installing the proper butyl sound deadening mats over 50% of the tub area for a similar cost (partial coverage can still be very effective with sound deadening mats). Or, if $50 more is really is an issue for this project, do the firewall and front foot wells first. Then, come back later and do the back of the tub later.
That said, I am not saying that noise and vibration won't be reduced with the home improvement products. These products are just better suited for their intended purpose and really don't hold a candle to the Noico 80 when it comes to "value" in this segment.

Just started this project and noticed a couple rust spots on the tub. Any more detailed advice on the tub prep before i install the Noico and car insulation products?
Thanks
 
Just started this project and noticed a couple rust spots on the tub. Any more detailed advice on the tub prep before i install the Noico and car insulation products?
Thanks

Not much to do other than make sure it isn't dirty or grimy by cleaning it with soap and water if really bad, or acetone if it's clean already.