Sputtering and stalling only while driving

[JoeSpit]

Is there something that can short out a pump (or 3)?

Maybe this says that the Safeway has poor fuel quality? Hence it being cheapest?

 

[FJQue]

Aaaaand my now 3rd replacement pump is dead and I’m waiting for aaa …again. This time it’s not even sputtering it’s just dead. I was driving and it just cut out. Of course I had filled it up last night so now I’ll have to removed the tank full weight

Oh man, that is ridiculous, what brand is that?

 

[JoeSpit]

That was a Napa branded one. Napa would not give me a 4th pump so they refunded me full and I bought a “precision” one from o’rielys

The Napa one had a wire break off at the solder point within the assembly. I forgot to snap a pic

I ended up cutting a hole in the rear floor pan (and a lil of the fuel tank: don’t use a jigsaw) for an easy access hatch

I thought the pump shorted because of wiring, even though I analyzed every inch of wiring before I switched pump 2 out. So I was gonna wore a direct switch to the battery. But I think I’ll save that for if n when this pump dies.. for now I gotta build a hatch door

But hey I’m getting super quick at fuel pumps, this one only took a lil over an hour lol granted I had to cut a hole. But my next one should switch out in minutes

 

[FJQue]

Holy crap man, someone needs to call these people out for these crap parts.

Anyways, guess we're all eventually going to have to cut a door in our floor for the fuel pumps with these kind of parts..

Probably use a skilsawl

 

[Sierra96]

Could it be contamination inside the tank ?

 

[JoeSpit]

Holy crap man, someone needs to call these people out for these crap parts.

Anyways, guess we're all eventually going to have to cut a door in our floor for the fuel pumps with these kind of parts..

Probably use a skilsawl

I'd recommend a dremel tool with cut off wheel.

Could it be contamination inside the tank ?

i did a total tank clean out when i put in pump 3. I was thinking bad gas or maybe more ethenol that advertised maybe eating away at the solder contacts or something? but i dunno, got my hatch now so i can change it out in minutes now

 

[Sierra96]

Live the hatch!

 

[JoeSpit]

Live the hatch!

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nice hatch! i'm either gonna make my own or use one of those hatch doors for boats

 

[kincaid.0678]

okay the PCM is fine, i was either reading the wrong pin or my back probe wasnt inserted all the way.

I did however notice another small crack on my exhaust near the engine mount. It's in such a cramped spot I'm not sure if i can JB weld it.

So now do i bother rere-replacing the pump i suspected, or just get a new exhaust manifold. I would just really hate to replace the exhaust if its not my issue... granted it IS cracked in at least 2 places so I gus i'd have to replace it eventually

Whats your thoughts replace the pump or exhaust? ...or both

I don’t believe a cracked exhaust manifold would make your engine die like that. Mine was missing a bolt and the whole gasket and it ran with a noticeable tick where the exhaust gasses were leaking. Just my two cents

 

[Deputy Dodge]

How are your power and grounds to the pump? Are you getting full power. Voltage drop along the ground?

 

[Deepsouthgt]

Had a similar issue with my 97 TJ 4.0 after getting some bad gas. terrible sputtering and backfiring in the 1100- 1800 rpm range. Ended up replacing the TPS (the idle was 2000 rpm), both O2 sensors, spark plugs and running the fuel tank empty. Started back with 110 octane racing fuel. Good idle, engine temp, same stupid sputter. Got to thinking about basics of the engine. Took the distributor cap off, rotor button and all six contacts were corroded/sooted over and had arc spots on them. Cleaned with some 150-grit sandpaper and Brake Kleen. Problem solved for me. Maybe this will help you a bit.