I would like to correct a couple of misconceptions that causes loose Squirrley steering, short lived steering gearboxes, and wasted money. This applies to most Jeeps that I have come across with a “loose” steering issue, assuming the steering components are in at lease fair condition. If you ignore these misconceptions your Jeep will drive true, and be responsive no matter what your tire pressure you run and even with less than perfect ball joins (not bad ones), and without damaging the gearbox by have far to little lash. You will also find the your steering gearbox will last multiple times longer due to the reduced stress on the gearing and correct lash. You will find these misconceptions on every forum and YouTube how to video. Honestly I have yet to see anyone do it correctly. Even Alignment shops and dealerships generally fail at these issues. The shop manual is actually correct (except the order) and though it is not explained sufficiently to understand why it is the correct way. Let’s get to these horrible misconceptions.
Firstly, to center your steering wheel:
Most people don’t want to hear this, but you DO NOT adjust your steering wheel center via the drag link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This needs more emphasis so !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The drag link adjustment is for the passenger side toe!!!!! If is the drag link as the steering wheel centering method then you already F-ed up your whole alignment and probably think that the steering gearboxes fair to often.
Secondly, Adjust gearbox lash to increase responsiveness:
Lash DOES NOT INCREASE RESPONSIVENESS! It may seem to for a bit but I find most people have it far tighter than it should be causing it to actually loose responsiveness do to restricting the hydronic pressure. If your gearbox has play in it with the engine running, then ether your gearing is bad or the power steering pump is not providing adequate volume or pressure. Okay or air in it. Ok ok sometimes, very very very rarely it is incorrect lash. There are only three (3) reasons to ever adjust lash:
1. You, yourself just rebuilt the gearbox and it is still on the bench while you are finishing it up.
2. The lock nut came loose and now you have to relash it.
3. You have been running 40” tires for the last 250,000 miles and you really want to get to 300K before having to purchase another one.
Ok lets talk about the pitman arm arc. The pitman arm arc is actually a symmetrical arc as it relates to the pivot at the gearbox; however, when it is working in combination with the drag links three non equal distance pivot points it actually functions as an oblique arc. This means the further it is turned from center the low the arc’s slope is between input motion on the steering wheel and out motion on the front wheels. It also means that the pitman arm must be correctly positioned to have the most equal response to both directions of turn eliminating steering wheel play. A lot of people say they have a huge dead area when the steering wheel is centered. IF the Pitman arm is incorrectly centered, One Direction will briefly go to a higher Slope arc point, making it seem to turn quicker to that direction and a lower slope turning to the other, seem to have a larger dead zone to one side. This gives that feeling of Squirrley steering feeling when driving down a straight road and making minor corrections.
Alignment:
This is assuming your Jeep is in unknown condition, so only the first time and you don’t know how bad it is boogered up it really is.
1. Ensure your Gearbox is at roughly at the center point. (Self Explanatory)
2. Ensure you pitman arm is pointing straight backwards and directly perpendicular to the front drive axle. (If not, it isn’t on the correct spline, yank it off and replace so it is on the correct spline)
3. Ensure your steering wheel is dead centered with the pitman arm still perpendicular to the front axle. (If not, yep you guessed it, pull the intermediate steering shaft. While keeping both the pitman arm perpendicular to the axle and the steering wheel straight, replace the intermediate shaft on the correct spline. Also the splines on the upper intermediate shaft connection and the ones on the gear box connection are ½ of a spline different. So if you are going for perfection and it’s off a smidge, disconnect at the upper shaft and turn it one spine.)
4. Set up Alinement method: (I use the 3 string method, that is setting a center string down the middle between the two frame rails and using the center line to setup two more parallel lines to the to measure toe and trust angle. This give you the benefit of checking the axle center and giving a second reference point to ensure parallel. It also ensures that the frame is perpendicular to the measuring lines which avoids more complicated geometry maths when calculating angle. Just good old Pythagorean theorem.)
#ProTip those magnetic tennis ball things you use to alight trailer hitch to the trailer make an excellent line holder. Just stick the magnet to the underside of you bumpers at both ends and run you line and move them to parallel. They even telescope so you c an set then to whatever height makes measuring easiest. Yes you do have to measure from the inside edge of the rim. I actually painted marks so I can just pop them on without having to measure ever time.
5. While keeping the pitman arm perpendicular, use the “DRAG LINK” to adjust the passenger toe to between -.15 and -.45 degrees with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
6. Use the tie rod adjustment to adjust the drive side tire toe to between -.15 and -.45 with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
7. Have a beer, the test drive can wait, you did it correctly this time so it will handle like Carol Shelby aligned it himself.
