Steering stabilizer installation recommendations

Jerry Bransford said:
I'd go on Rancho's Facebook page and send a direct message to them and just say you need a replacement tapered stud for your RS5407 steering stabilizer. If it's Matt he should be able to get you a replacement pretty quickly. They seem to be pretty responsive on their FB page.
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I’ll give that a shot…thanks
 
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They were previously available, but guess COVID has affected everything.
I have spares if you need one....

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Sorry for the late response… Rancho sent me a new one and it’s still on my work bench to be installed… there is something about being retired and procrastinating!
 
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Todd Sanders said:
Sorry for the late response… Rancho sent me a new one and it’s still on my work bench to be installed… there is something about being retired and procrastinating!
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Lol, no problem. I wasn't going to try it again. The treads stripped before there was clearance for the cotter pin. My micrometer showed it's .02" bigger. I ended up cutting apart the old shock to get at the original. Cleaned it up and it worked perfectly. Thanks, hope yours works out.
 
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Jbw said:
Lol, no problem. I wasn't going to try it again. The treads stripped before there was clearance for the cotter pin. My micrometer showed it's .02" bigger. I ended up cutting apart the old shock to get at the original. Cleaned it up and it worked perfectly. Thanks, hope yours works out.
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Oops. Threads!
 
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Claybirdd said:
Try using a tapered reamer or drill to open the hole up.
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Yeah that would do it. Just didn't want to modify a brand new $150.00 moog tie rod to accommodate a $5 stud. The original OEM worked perfectly and is much stronger than the Rancho.
 
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Jbw said:
Yeah that would do it. Just didn't want to modify a brand new $150.00 moog tie rod to accommodate a $5 stud. The original OEM worked perfectly and is much stronger than the Rancho.
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I understand but that's what I would do if the new one they send doesn't fit either.
 
I had the same problem on my moog drag link installing a Monroe steering stabilizer. I think it's an issue with moog not drilling deep enough with their tapper in manufacturing. I wouldn't place the blame on the stabilizer.
 
Claybirdd said:
I had the same problem on my moog drag link installing a Monroe steering stabilizer. I think it's an issue with moog not drilling deep enough with their tapper in manufacturing. I wouldn't place the blame on the stabilizer.
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I thought that also but I couldn't get it in the original tie rod either. Mine is a chevy 1 ton dana 60. I just feel the original stud is stronger. The Rancho just stripped so easily. Just my opinion.
 
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Jbw said:
Lol, no problem. I wasn't going to try it again. The treads stripped before there was clearance for the cotter pin. My micrometer showed it's .02" bigger. I ended up cutting apart the old shock to get at the original. Cleaned it up and it worked perfectly. Thanks, hope yours works out.
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By the way, if anyone needs the Rancho/Monroe tapered stud part# it's P00837. If anyone finds a higher quality equivalent, please respond.
 
Anyone know the size the hole in the drag link is supposed the b for the tapered bolt to fit correctly? I be tried everything I have read & know but no luck getting out of the link……..looks like drill or get a new drag link. Thoughts???
 
Samko 2010 said:
Anyone know the size the hole in the drag link is supposed the b for the tapered bolt to fit correctly? I be tried everything I have read & know but no luck getting out of the link……..looks like drill or get a new drag link. Thoughts???
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I have been knocking tapered stuff apart for about 40 years.

I have never in my life had something I thought I might not get apart until I replaced that tapered stud for the steering damper. Lots of hammering and air hammer work.

What have you tried? If the drag link is still on the Jeep it may help to pull it off. That way you can support it so it doesn't bounce while hammering.
 
Samko 2010 said:
Anyone know the size the hole in the drag link is supposed the b for the tapered bolt to fit correctly? I be tried everything I have read & know but no luck getting out of the link……..looks like drill or get a new drag link. Thoughts???
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This will get it out with link still on the Jeep.
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