Steering Wheel Alignment ZJ Tie Rod

[XCRN]

Just took my 2000 in for an alignment and they could only adjust it so far before the tierod and tierod end bottomed out in the sleeve. All new suspension and steering box. I have seperated all the steering shafts for the LS swap. To do the LS swap I had to mount the support about 1” away from the frame. As far as I know, all the steering shafts are keyed and can only go on direction. I have never removed the steering wheel, but I was about to in order to clock it to match the alignment and that is also keyed. Was there something I am missing?

 

[Badgerbiter]

I think an inch is a mile when talking about alignment. Not an expert, but alignment seems to be a refinement of tiny distances. You may need to alter (or replace) the other pieces involved. You move a pivot, and the entire system changes unfortunately.

 

[CharlesHS]

The same situation can occur using the Currie Currectlync with a stock Jeep (no lift).
IF you have ensured the tie rod assembly is adjusted properly for toe; then to center the steering wheel you will need to take the tie rod end on the drag link and have an inch machined (cut off the threads) so the TRE stud will be closer to the pitman arm.
Some years ago I installed a Currie Currectlync on a friends '97 TJ SE with no lift; we needed to have the Drag link TRE threaded section cut by 1" so there would be enough adjustment to center the steering wheel.
DO NOT try removing the steering wheel to clock the steering wheel on the steering column; you will damage the ribbon cable when the wheel is turned too many turns in one direction.

 

[XCRN]

The same situation can occur using the Currie Currectlync with a stock Jeep (no lift).
IF you have ensured the tie rod assembly is adjusted properly for toe; then to center the steering wheel you will need to take the tie rod end on the drag link and have an inch machined (cut off the threads) so the TRE stud will be closer to the pitman arm.
Some years ago I installed a Currie Currectlync on a friends '97 TJ SE with no lift; we needed to have the Drag link TRE threaded section cut by 1" so there would be enough adjustment to center the steering wheel.
DO NOT try removing the steering wheel to clock the steering wheel on the steering column; you will damage the ribbon cable when the wheel is turned too many turns in one direction.

That seems easy enough to machine the draglink end at the steering box down a bit. The tie rod that connects the wheels is aligned correctly and I will have no need to touch that.

 

[Rubicon88]

If you're just doing a zj conversion....
There should be no need to cut anything.

Something is wrong.?.

 

[XCRN]

If you're just doing a zj conversion....
There should be no need to cut anything.

Something is wrong.?.

The only thing I could think of is maybe the coupler from steering column to intermediate shaft might not be keyed to only go on one way. I have to take the steering column out again anyways to get the dash back on so ill look again then.

 

[Irun]

I've done more than a dozen ZJ conversions and have never seen an issue like this. Before starting, I turn the wheels straight, center the steering wheel, then secure it with some sort of strap. This will give you a good reference point and help you to keep from damaging the clock spring. Then, before pulling the old stock steering off, I take a measurement and use that as a baseline template for the new ZJ setup. I then set the ZJ setup to that, install it, and make small adjustments get it where it needs to be, and to center the wheel.