Still no crank and no start

Take apart the cluster panel and clean everything, most likely have a LOT of dust in the connectors in there, might have a look at your ignition while you are at it anyway, make sure the connectors there aren't dirty or loose.
 
use conductive grease on connectors
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Actually use dielectric grease, which is non conductive. You do not want any type of contuctive grease (never seize, or any grease with metals in it) in connectors as it will short from one pin to the other in the connector.
 
06softtop said:
Thanks i'll do that tonight, then see what happens
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@06softtop Neither type of grease is the answer to this problem. Using a dielectric grease just prevents corrosion and helps protects electrical connectors, it's never a cure for an existing electrical problem.

Edit: You have replaced my first two guesses, the ignition switch actuator pin and the ignition switch. At this point it is starting to sound like the problem is inside the Power Distribution Center or at the connector leading to the ignition switch. The fact the starter only works when the Voltmeter indicates 12 volts leads makes something in the PDC or the ignition switch connector seem to be strong suspects. Especially that you don't see power to the starter solenoid's small gauge wire which comes from the starter relay inside the PDC.

If it were me I'd be looking closely at the wiring inside the PDC under all the relays inside the PDC. The wiring leading from the ignition switch would be of particular interest since that wiring also provides power to the PCM that turns the voltmeter on in the instrument cluster. There's some commonality there for sure.

When you replaced the ignition switch and actuator pin did you closely look at the wiring leading to the ignition switch connector? And at the ignition switch connector itself?
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
@06softtop Neither type of grease is the answer to this problem. Using a dielectric grease just prevents corrosion and helps protects electrical connectors, it's never a cure for an existing electrical problem.

Edit: You have replaced my first two guesses, the ignition switch actuator pin and the ignition switch. At this point it is starting to sound like the problem is inside the Power Distribution Center or at the connector leading to the ignition switch. The fact the starter only works when the Voltmeter indicates 12 volts leads makes something in the PDC or the ignition switch connector seem to be strong suspects. Especially that you don't see power to the starter solenoid's small gauge wire which comes from the starter relay inside the PDC.

If it were me I'd be looking closely at the wiring inside the PDC under all the relays inside the PDC. The wiring leading from the ignition switch would be of particular interest since that wiring also provides power to the PCM that turns the voltmeter on in the instrument cluster. There's some commonality there for sure.

When you replaced the ignition switch and actuator pin did you closely look at the wiring leading to the ignition switch connector? And at the ignition switch connector itself?
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Op said his PDC looks good, the connections are tight and everything. Of course if his Ignition relay is gone... That would be a problem, but I believe he replaced that recently and the problem was happening before that. "new starter asd relay" But to my knowledge if the ASD is bad the vehicle will still turn over, just without fuel or spark, and the OP said he has fuel and spark.

OP, if you want to take a look at your PCM, that is the thing with all the plugs directly above the battery on the Passenger side of the vehicle. Yes, Chrysler put it in a VERY stupid spot IMHO... It does like to get some (a LOT) corrosion and whatnot... But my 03 hasn't had any trouble yet, though I make sure I keep that thing covered in a hydrophobic spray (just the exterior to keep the water away!) (Am I allowed to mention exact products here?)
 
Hi, everybody think i fixed the issue, engine to body ground strap, still intact but crimp a little loose and shows fraying so i replace with new copper cable, been working for 4 days now, im guessing the ground strap engine to body is for some of the dash electonics like ignition....but again been working great so far
 
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Good news!
Thanks for the update.
It's always good to know what fixed it, for those that may have a similar problem.
 
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06softtop said:
still having no crank issue lastest changed camshaft sensor, now when in the on position hear the IAC clicking and still fuel and battery gauge don't move, so looking for where to look that control those gauges causing a no crank issue
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My 2018 jeep Sahara no crank no start and everything came on. Replaced battery and TIPM and didn't work. After a year of dealing with it we found it was the TIPM, replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
06softtop said:
still having no crank issue lastest changed camshaft sensor, now when in the on position hear the IAC clicking and still fuel and battery gauge don't move, so looking for where to look that control those gauges causing a no crank issue
Click to expand...
My 2018 jeep Sahara no crank no start and everything came on. Replaced battery and TIPM and didn't work. After a year of dealing with it we found it was the TIPM, replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
 
Hi, I’m having the same issue myself. But this time I am getting battery and fuel gauge turn on. Replaced the starter, but that’s not it. Lights, horn all work
 
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