Tailgate hingebolts struggle

nondem

TJ Enthusiast
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Apr 17, 2021
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Tallahassee, Fl. USA
I'm installing the Morryde Tailgate reinforcement kit and have all but the last two hinge-bolts out.
The lower two that bolt the hinge to the tub are the problem likely because they are the only two that are exposed to road corrosion.

I'm 4 broken T40 bits into it and although I've not damaged the torx bolt head(yet) I've made no progress getting those two to budge.
So far I've heated it w/Mapp gas to the point of starting to damage the paint around the hinge and I've tried a 1/2" impact(as gently as possible). I also tried one of those hand-impacts you whack w/a hammer. This was after cutting the paint around the bolt head etc...

The only thing short of a cutoff wheel I haven't tried is one of those black "impact rated" T40 bits. The busted ones are a mix
of regular Craftsman, DeWalt and HF's best. I plan to stop by a parts house on the way home today and try to get an impact bit but before I do I thought I would ask if anyone thinks that might really make a difference or just be another broken one in the pile?
If not, I'll just go to the cutoff wheel and destroy the hinge or drill it out and retap it.

As I side note: I'm really impressed w/the quality of the Morryde kit...nice thick steel plate. Wish I cold actually install it :)

Edit: I forgot to mention that none of the bolts I already got out had any remnants of locktite on them.
 
Last edited:
I'm installing the Morryde Tailgate reinforcement kit and have all but the last two hinge-bolts out.
The lower two that bolt the hinge to the tub are the problem likely because they are the only two that are exposed to road corrosion.

I'm 4 broken T40 bits into it and although I've not damaged the torx bolt head(yet) I've made no progress getting those two to budge.
So far I've heated it w/Mapp gas to the point of starting to damage the paint around the hinge and I've tried a 1/2" impact(as gently as possible). I also tried one of those hand-impacts you whack w/a hammer. This was after cutting the paint around the bolt head etc...

The only thing short of a cutoff wheel I haven't tried is one of those black "impact rated" T40 bits. The busted ones are a mix
of regular Craftsman, DeWalt and HF's best. I plan to stop by a parts house on the way home today and try to get an impact bit but before I do I thought I would ask if anyone thinks that might really make a difference or just be another broken one in the pile?
If not, I'll just go to the cutoff wheel and destroy the hinge or drill it out and retap it.

As I side note: I'm really impressed w/the quality of the Morryde kit...nice thick steel plate. Wish I cold actually install it :)

Edit: I forgot to mention that none of the bolts I already got out had any remnants of locktite on them.

Drill out the heads, remove tailgate hinge, spin remnants out with your fingers

Thanks...but spinning it out w/my fingers seems like a long shot. I still may waste a few more bucks on an impact(black) torx bit to see if it makes a difference.
 
When I installed mine I drilled out the head of the offending bolt and was then able to get a pair of vice grips on the headless bolt to turn it. Since I used a very large drill bit, the stock hinges were ruined in the process but that shouldn’t matter since you’re putting on the Morryde kit. I don’t remember what size drill but it was >3/8in
 
I guess I'm preoccupied with getting it out with the correct tool...the problem is the correct tool is incapable of removing the bolt. If it had a hex head I could have already either easily removed it or went ahead and twisted the head off of the bolt and drilled it out. I hate torx.
 
FTR: My reply came off wrong...I really did mean thanks because that's exactly what I'll probably end up doing but I took the finger spinning part as sarchasm. :)

It's not sarcasm..granted I am on the west coast so no rust and I don't mean to toot my own horn but I have removed more of these screws than most people...very rarely do I fight them
 
If you drill off both the heads, the back piece should be able to come out. I think the piece on the bottom is just like the top. Pretty much a pressed length of sheet metal with a pair of threads in it.

Mine got destroyed when I removed my hinge bolts and will be replaced with nuts and washers.
 
If you drill off both the heads, the back piece should be able to come out. I think the piece on the bottom is just like the top. Pretty much a pressed length of sheet metal with a pair of threads in it.

Mine got destroyed when I removed my hinge bolts and will be replaced with nuts and washers.

Like this

Screenshot_20221020-113300_eBay.jpg
 
Since you aren't using the bolts or hinge, you can use heat and try a torx socket or you can do it the easy way and drill out the head. I don't remember the exact drill bit (5/16 maybe) but once you've drilled far enough the head will spin off onto the drill bit. I think I used plyers to spin the remaining bolt.

It may not be loose enough to use fingers but it will surprise you how easy it is to remove after drill off the head.

Whatever you do don't use an extractor like I did and it snaps off in the bolt. It took me a few hours to get that bolt out after that.
 
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Ok...I had overlooked the obvious about that plate being accessible. I really can just drill the heads off and pull that plate off from the back.
Sometimes I get a one-track mind...thanks for saving me some aggravation.
 
Ok...I had overlooked the obvious about that plate being accessible. I really can just drill the heads off and pull that plate off from the back.
Sometimes I get a one-track mind...thanks for saving me some aggravation.

I have plates in stock if you need..but the remnants will remove easily out of yours trust us
 
I guess I'm preoccupied with getting it out with the correct tool...the problem is the correct tool is incapable of removing the bolt. If it had a hex head I could have already either easily removed it or went ahead and twisted the head off of the bolt and drilled it out. I hate torx.

If you've broken 4 torx bits the right tool is a drill!
 
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Ok...I drilled them out no problem. Then w/additional Map gas I was able to get both bolts out of the plate in like 2 minutes once I got it to my workbench.
Sure would have saved myself some time doing that right off.
I've already got the bare metal under the OEM hinges cleaned and coated w/rustoleum. Cage bolt is out.....Ready to do the fun part of the install tomorrow.

I also reminded myself again how great high quality cobalt drill bits are.
 
Ok...I drilled them out no problem. Then w/additional Map gas I was able to get both bolts out of the plate in like 2 minutes once I got it to my workbench.
Sure would have saved myself some time doing that right off.
I've already got the bare metal under the OEM hinges cleaned and coated w/rustoleum. Cage bolt is out.....Ready to do the fun part of the install tomorrow.

I also reminded myself again how great high quality cobalt drill bits are.

Beefy.
tailgate018_LI.jpg
 
I am currently dealing with a similar issue but my stuck, and now stripped, bolt is in the tailgate. I have alternated heat and hammering with an impact driver for an hour. It was while gently using a pneumatic impact wrench that stripped the bolt. Will drilling the head off leave enough bolt to attempt to use vice grips to remove the offender?
 
I am currently dealing with a similar issue but my stuck, and now stripped, bolt is in the tailgate. I have alternated heat and hammering with an impact driver for an hour. It was while gently using a pneumatic impact wrench that stripped the bolt. Will drilling the head off leave enough bolt to attempt to use vice grips to remove the offender?

Remove both screws from the hinge on the tailgate side..swing hinge out of the way and remove remnants. Then buy 2 new screws, paint the heads and you are back in business
 
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