Taking up Sewing - Need Advice
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
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OK - In for a penny, in for a pound. Or in this case, about 1600 pounds...
After digesting all the great advice here, doing a bunch more research, and shopping both the new and used markets, I pulled the trigger on this:
https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Ultrafeed-LSZ-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine-110V
The main drivers of the decision where that I wanted a walking foot machine, enough power to deal with most anything I'd want to do - including possibly windows, plastic inserts and maybe some light leather - and I generally look at tools and machines as lifetime purchases.
I spent a lot of time searching the used market, focusing on the brands and models mentioned in the thread, but did not find anything that would work for me.
On the new side, the Sailrite machines seemed to be middle of the line in terms of cost. I did find cheaper walking foot models from Consew, but in my research I found many examples of folks having problems and not getting adequate support from the seller or the manufacturer - often with one pointing the finger at the other. Although as with others, I did take these reviews with a grain of salt.
@MaximusLJR06, I did take your advice to heart, and spent a lot of time looking at reviews on the Sailrite, and there are many bad experiences out there, but Sailrite does seem to support their product - and you deal directly with them if you have a problem.
Finally, and of the most weight, was the direct positive personal feedback from several folks here. I'll take a few personal recommendations over bad reviews any day.
I also took Jeff's (@jscherb) advice and added the speed reduction upgrade, and Fulton's (@Fulton_Hogan) advice and picked up Sailrite's hot knife and basking tape. I also took @Vulture's advice and went for the LSZ model, which has the zig-zag option.
And just by coincidence, if you follow my build thread you know I've just replaced my soft top (among other things over the last few weeks). I actually had the old top in the garbage can for pickup pick-up today and it dawned on me that it would make great (read: cheap
) material to use for practice. So I yanked it out of the trash and cut it down to useable pieces.
View attachment 430458
So off we go with both feet. I'm looking forward to learning a new skill.
Since you've made the leap and ordered a very capable sewing machine, I'll offer some advice on other things you might consider, a few some tips on techniques and some ideas on organization.
First, this is my sewing area, it's in a spare room and can stay set up all the time.
There's a work table and a sewing machine table. The work table has seal-healing cutting mats on it (more on that shortly). The sewing machine, rather than being inset flush into the table as is often done, has a raised platform around it to provide a larger flat area for handling larger workpieces. It's very handy to have a large worktable and a separate sewing area, especially for working on larger projects.
Underneath the table are two drawers and two drawer units for tools and supplies.
Cutting
I use a range of cutting tools depending on what I'm cutting.
1. Scales and Squares. For accurate measuring and making 90-degree corners, also for guiding cutting with the rotary cutter.
2. Rotary Cutter Does a very nice job making perfectly straight cuts.
3. Scissors I keep a bunch of sizes around. Scissors that cut well and are predictable are a must. Believe it or not, these are "Quinn" brand from Harbor Freight. They're new products I think this year, and they're surprisingly good considering who sells them. Very affordable. The range of sizes comes in handy, the large shears work well for thick assemblies and the tiny ones are get for fine work.
4. Thread Nippers Technically scissors, these are very handy for nipping threads when you finish a seam.
5. Hot Knife. Great for cutting synthetic fabrics and also synthetic webbing. Melts the edge so it won't fray. Small piece of plywood is sacrificial cutting surface, I throw the wood away from time to time and start a new one. I use the Hotk Knife with the wood and without its foot for cutting webbing and I use the foot without the wood for cutting lengths of fabric.
6. Iron. Not a cutting tool but it was on the table when I took this photo... I often iron things before sewing, especially things like pockets - I iron the folds on them so they hold their shape during sewing.
Not pictured are marking pencils. Sailrite sells water soluable marking pencils, the line comes off with a damp cloth. Perfect for marking cut line before you cut or marking where you want to put a seam.
Basting
Seams need to be held together for sewing. A traditional dressmaker will pin the seam together (known as "basting" in the trade), but for the heavier fabrics that might be used in sewing Jeep accessories, other methods work better. I use all of these methods depending on the situation:
1. Seamstick Basting Tape. From Sailrite, it's double-sided tape and very useful for sticking seams together before sewing for accurate seams.
2. Wonder Clips. Sometimes these work better than Seamstick, they are pretty strong and can grab in situation where Seamstick might pull apart. Sold by Sailrite.
3. Hair Clips. Mostly useful for lighter fabrics, these hair clips work very well to hold seams together.
4. Plier-type Stapler. For tough assemblies where it may be a struggle to get the seam to feed through the machine, staples won't let go and can be removed after the seam is sewn. I use this often when sewing bags made from thicker fabrics, like factory twill soft top fabric.
The last 3 of the above are also useful instead of Seamstick because depending on your seam type and the product you're sewing, Seamstick may show on the outside of a bag for example, when the bag is turned right-side out after sewing - if the line of stitching doesn't completely run just inside of the Seamstick (outside when turned right-side out), the Seamstick will show.
Hair clips, Wonder Clips and Staples:
Other Useful Tools
These are a few other tools you may find useful.
1. X-Acto Knife and Seam Ripper. You will need to remove seams from time to time. Sometimes you'll make a mistake, sometimes the machine may skip a stitch or some other error will occur; I use both of these tools to unsew seams.
2. Punches of various sizes. Very useful for making holes to install snaps and rivets in both cloth and leather.
3. Bias Binding Makers. For making multi-folded seam binding. Seam binding is used to wrap seamed edges. Here's an example, this shows a seam inside the corner of a bag. The bag is lined with the red plaid fabric and seam binding made from the same fabric is sewn over the seam to prevent the edges of the fabric from unraveling and to give a finished look. These can be found on eBay and they're very inexpensive.
Other Machine Accessories
For complicated assemblies, such as zippers on bags, sometimes the standard presser foot gets in the way or won't sew close enough to a zipper, so single-side presser feet can be very useful and are sometimes required. Sailrite sells a range of optional feet.
Organization
When I get an idea for something I like to be able to sew it right away rather than having to wait until I can buy the necessary supplies and materials so I keep a lot on hand. The two drawers directly under the sewing machine hold tools I'm likely to need while sitting at the sewing machine and acessories for the machine. The drawer units on the sides hold various materials. I do almost all of my sewing with larger rolls of thread which can be unwieldy to store, so in one drawer I've got a panel with dowels in it to keep the rolls of thread organized.
I keep a lot of hardware on hand - snaps, zipper parts, grommets and rivets. I've got them organized in parts boxes, and I've got labels identifying the parts inside:
These are stored in the drawer units.
I keep snaps with various length shafts for different thickness assemblies as well as snaps in various colors (silver, black, olive drab) and styles (bullet casing snaps from Hobby Lobby can be a nice touch).
I also use rivets quite a bit for leather assembly and for strengthening seams/joint (think about the rivets in your jeans). These I also have in various sizes and lengths, plus some decorative ones (again bullet casings). Easy-set rivets and setting tools are available at Tandy Leather.
I've also got a spare dresser that I keep smaller pieces of fabric, webbing and other materials in. For larger rolls off fabric, I've built a rack on the back of my sewing table to hold those rolls of fabric. Since Overland Outfitters has picked up many of my designs and hope I do more, they keep me supplied with their heavy canvas in black and tan, their lining fabric, their new weatherproof fabric for things like spare tire bags, and leather and I keep all of these handy on the rack on the back of my sewing table.
For fabrics I use less often, I've got large flat boxes that slide under beds in spare bedrooms.
Just a few ideas and things that work for me, FWIW. BTW if anyone wants to see more of my designs, check out https://www.overland-outfitters.com/. All but a couple of the designs they sell started out as hobby projects for me. Typically I come up with an idea, design and sew a prototype for my own use, and then I offer it to them. I've done lots of designs they've rejected too
. They've been reluctant to put too many of my TJ accessories in production, they say TJ people haven't been interested in the higher end products, like these door pockets or seat-back pockets. I guess you'll have to sew these yourself if you want them...
OP
Since you've made the leap and ordered a very capable sewing machine, I'll offer some advice on other things you might consider, a few some tips on techniques and some ideas on organization.
First, this is my sewing area, it's in a spare room and can stay set up all the time.
View attachment 431013
There's a work table and a sewing machine table. The work table has seal-healing cutting mats on it (more on that shortly). The sewing machine, rather than being inset flush into the table as is often done, has a raised platform around it to provide a larger flat area for handling larger workpieces. It's very handy to have a large worktable and a separate sewing area, especially for working on larger projects.
Underneath the table are two drawers and two drawer units for tools and supplies.
Cutting
I use a range of cutting tools depending on what I'm cutting.
View attachment 431014
1. Scales and Squares. For accurate measuring and making 90-degree corners, also for guiding cutting with the rotary cutter.
2. Rotary Cutter Does a very nice job making perfectly straight cuts.
3. Scissors I keep a bunch of sizes around. Scissors that cut well and are predictable are a must. Believe it or not, these are "Quinn" brand from Harbor Freight. They're new products I think this year, and they're surprisingly good considering who sells them. Very affordable. The range of sizes comes in handy, the large shears work well for thick assemblies and the tiny ones are get for fine work.
4. Thread Nippers Technically scissors, these are very handy for nipping threads when you finish a seam.
5. Hot Knife. Great for cutting synthetic fabrics and also synthetic webbing. Melts the edge so it won't fray. Small piece of plywood is sacrificial cutting surface, I throw the wood away from time to time and start a new one. I use the Hotk Knife with the wood and without its foot for cutting webbing and I use the foot without the wood for cutting lengths of fabric.
6. Iron. Not a cutting tool but it was on the table when I took this photo... I often iron things before sewing, especially things like pockets - I iron the folds on them so they hold their shape during sewing.
Not pictured are marking pencils. Sailrite sells water soluable marking pencils, the line comes off with a damp cloth. Perfect for marking cut line before you cut or marking where you want to put a seam.
Basting
Seams need to be held together for sewing. A traditional dressmaker will pin the seam together (known as "basting" in the trade), but for the heavier fabrics that might be used in sewing Jeep accessories, other methods work better. I use all of these methods depending on the situation:
View attachment 431015
1. Seamstick Basting Tape. From Sailrite, it's double-sided tape and very useful for sticking seams together before sewing for accurate seams.
2. Wonder Clips. Sometimes these work better than Seamstick, they are pretty strong and can grab in situation where Seamstick might pull apart. Sold by Sailrite.
3. Hair Clips. Mostly useful for lighter fabrics, these hair clips work very well to hold seams together.
4. Plier-type Stapler. For tough assemblies where it may be a struggle to get the seam to feed through the machine, staples won't let go and can be removed after the seam is sewn. I use this often when sewing bags made from thicker fabrics, like factory twill soft top fabric.
The last 3 of the above are also useful instead of Seamstick because depending on your seam type and the product you're sewing, Seamstick may show on the outside of a bag for example, when the bag is turned right-side out after sewing - if the line of stitching doesn't completely run just inside of the Seamstick (outside when turned right-side out), the Seamstick will show.
Hair clips, Wonder Clips and Staples:
View attachment 431016
Other Useful Tools
These are a few other tools you may find useful.
View attachment 431017
1. X-Acto Knife and Seam Ripper. You will need to remove seams from time to time. Sometimes you'll make a mistake, sometimes the machine may skip a stitch or some other error will occur; I use both of these tools to unsew seams.
2. Punches of various sizes. Very useful for making holes to install snaps and rivets in both cloth and leather.
3. Bias Binding Makers. For making multi-folded seam binding. Seam binding is used to wrap seamed edges. Here's an example, this shows a seam inside the corner of a bag. The bag is lined with the red plaid fabric and seam binding made from the same fabric is sewn over the seam to prevent the edges of the fabric from unraveling and to give a finished look. These can be found on eBay and they're very inexpensive.
View attachment 431018
Other Machine Accessories
For complicated assemblies, such as zippers on bags, sometimes the standard presser foot gets in the way or won't sew close enough to a zipper, so single-side presser feet can be very useful and are sometimes required. Sailrite sells a range of optional feet.
View attachment 431019
Organization
When I get an idea for something I like to be able to sew it right away rather than having to wait until I can buy the necessary supplies and materials so I keep a lot on hand. The two drawers directly under the sewing machine hold tools I'm likely to need while sitting at the sewing machine and acessories for the machine. The drawer units on the sides hold various materials. I do almost all of my sewing with larger rolls of thread which can be unwieldy to store, so in one drawer I've got a panel with dowels in it to keep the rolls of thread organized.
View attachment 431020
I keep a lot of hardware on hand - snaps, zipper parts, grommets and rivets. I've got them organized in parts boxes, and I've got labels identifying the parts inside:
View attachment 431021
These are stored in the drawer units.
View attachment 431022
I keep snaps with various length shafts for different thickness assemblies as well as snaps in various colors (silver, black, olive drab) and styles (bullet casing snaps from Hobby Lobby can be a nice touch).
I also use rivets quite a bit for leather assembly and for strengthening seams/joint (think about the rivets in your jeans). These I also have in various sizes and lengths, plus some decorative ones (again bullet casings). Easy-set rivets and setting tools are available at Tandy Leather.
View attachment 431023
I've also got a spare dresser that I keep smaller pieces of fabric, webbing and other materials in. For larger rolls off fabric, I've built a rack on the back of my sewing table to hold those rolls of fabric. Since Overland Outfitters has picked up many of my designs and hope I do more, they keep me supplied with their heavy canvas in black and tan, their lining fabric, their new weatherproof fabric for things like spare tire bags, and leather and I keep all of these handy on the rack on the back of my sewing table.
For fabrics I use less often, I've got large flat boxes that slide under beds in spare bedrooms.
Just a few ideas and things that work for me, FWIW. BTW if anyone wants to see more of my designs, check out https://www.overland-outfitters.com/. All but a couple of the designs they sell started out as hobby projects for me. Typically I come up with an idea, design and sew a prototype for my own use, and then I offer it to them. I've done lots of designs they've rejected too
View attachment 431024
View attachment 431025
Thanks for all that, Jeff. Great ideas and organization. You are definitely on another level.
The machine was delivered today just after lunch. Great service, since I just ordered it Tuesday afternoon. It’s a beast, and the packaging was on a Blaine level. So far, Sailrite is definitely top shelf.
OP
Well, as I said this showed up at the door yesterday (Thursday) after ordering it on Tuesday afternoon. No doubt this thing is made out of metal - the box was over 70 pounds...
This thing is a beast. After watching Sailrite's video on doing so, setup was a breeze. It only took 10 or 15 minutes to get it together.
On Jeff's recommendation, I also ordered the slow speed wheel kit. The stock wheel is plastic, but this thing is a solid hunk of steel. It really slows the machine down and provides great control and power for getting through thick, tough material.
Sailrite has a few "starter packs." I picked up their sail and canvas set. Heavy thread, guides, needles, basting tape, and a stich cutter.
This is the hot knife that Fulton recommended.
And finally, this is the case. Bullet-proof.
I'm very happy with everything - top quality stuff. So far it seams to be money well spent.
(Yes, deliberate misspelling for the pun effect)
This thing is a beast. After watching Sailrite's video on doing so, setup was a breeze. It only took 10 or 15 minutes to get it together.
On Jeff's recommendation, I also ordered the slow speed wheel kit. The stock wheel is plastic, but this thing is a solid hunk of steel. It really slows the machine down and provides great control and power for getting through thick, tough material.
Sailrite has a few "starter packs." I picked up their sail and canvas set. Heavy thread, guides, needles, basting tape, and a stich cutter.
This is the hot knife that Fulton recommended.
And finally, this is the case. Bullet-proof.
I'm very happy with everything - top quality stuff. So far it seams to be money well spent.
(Yes, deliberate misspelling for the pun effect
)
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OP
After getting familiar with the machine, I was anxious to hit my first project. I've got an adventure bike trip coming up at the end of July (Wyoming BDR), and I picked up some new Kriega luggage for the trip. I run a custom seat on my T7, and because of the position of the seat the front strap was not long enough.
I didn't take many pictures, but here is one piece of the new strap I made. The Sailrite went through this heavy nylon webbing like a breeze. And basting tape is awesome!
What goes around, comes around. I actually used two of the heavy tension straps off of my old top to create the new strap for the bike. It worked great:
(Edit: Funny, I just looked closely at this picture, and you can see the tension straps on the new top in the background)
I really enjoyed using the new machine. Now I'll start planning out a couple of cases for my half doors.
Thanks for all the input, boys. It was a huge help and very much appreciated.
Jeff
I didn't take many pictures, but here is one piece of the new strap I made. The Sailrite went through this heavy nylon webbing like a breeze. And basting tape is awesome!
What goes around, comes around. I actually used two of the heavy tension straps off of my old top to create the new strap for the bike. It worked great:
(Edit: Funny, I just looked closely at this picture, and you can see the tension straps on the new top in the background)
I really enjoyed using the new machine. Now I'll start planning out a couple of cases for my half doors.
Thanks for all the input, boys. It was a huge help and very much appreciated.
Jeff
StoneCold
TJ Enthusiast
I think you made a good choice - congrats!!
Take the time to sew with a grain of salt. @jscherb is on a different level. It takes me a LOT longer than he says to do anything. Straps are "easy" and quick....bags, zips, etc....a lot longer than an hour if you are trying to make a one off for sure.
The ability for zig - zag on that machine will definitely be a BIG plus for your lettering and some construction types. I've enjoyed being able to sew some stuff, but like anything there is a learning curve. It's pretty dang fun though!
Take the time to sew with a grain of salt. @jscherb is on a different level. It takes me a LOT longer than he says to do anything. Straps are "easy" and quick....bags, zips, etc....a lot longer than an hour if you are trying to make a one off for sure.
The ability for zig - zag on that machine will definitely be a BIG plus for your lettering and some construction types. I've enjoyed being able to sew some stuff, but like anything there is a learning curve. It's pretty dang fun though!
My friend likes this answer. She owns a local upholstery business and teaches sewing classes.
She prefers a vintage Juki (Japan model) and said you can find them on eBay or Craigslist but said to act if you see one bc they tend to sell fast.
She said the newer Chinese models are fine unless you know how nice the Japan models are.
OP
I looked at quite a few of those Juki and other industrial models, and @Zorba is correct in that you can find them on ebay for a few hundred dollars. However, every single one I saw at those prices was the head unit only, with no motor or table. A fully functioning unit was much, much more.
Since I’m not planning on opening a dedicated sewing shop, I wanted a portable unit that can sit on a shelf and be deployed quickly - without sacrificing quality.
But the real kicker was that I’m generally impatient when I decide to dive into something like this endeavor. Pulling the trigger on a new unit was definitely the quickest option. If I wanted to save some money I am sure that I could have found a decent used unit if I wanted to take the time to shop around for an extended period of time.
Anyone who watched me pull the trigger on those lower control arms over on my build thread would have a pretty good idea how my mind works concerning shopping around…
OP
I spent some time over the weekend getting to know the machine, and learning different stitch and seam techniques. I've spent a bunch of time in front of Sailrite's YouTube channel - lots of great information out there.
The old Jeep top is providing its final benefit.
The old Jeep top is providing its final benefit.
I've seen that "French seam" used on a lot of boat and motorcycle stuff. Can anyone tell me if that's used for an aesthetic reason or thick material/structural reason?
OP
As mentioned I'm planning to make a couple of zippered canvas bags to protect and hold my soft doors - particularly when I travel with the full doors on the rig and throw the half doors in the back of the truck.
My inspiration is this bag for my soft uppers which I purchased years ago. It is zippered 3/4 of the way around, and is shaped to fit the uppers. It's made from a fabric similar to the jeep top material, but not quite as heavy.
Given this is largely new to me, I used some more of the old soft top and put together a small prototype of what I have in mind. The layout and design will be similar to the full size version, but will give me some experience before tackling the actual piece (and a lot cheaper than when I actually have to start paying for material).
So I came up with a quick design idea, laid out a pattern, and cut up more of the top.
And then off to the machine. I'm already a hack fabricator, now I'm well on my way to becoming a hack seamstress...
Wait, what?
As a newbie, the most challenging part for me were the eight inside corners. These were quite tough to figure out how to get the machine in there, and in fact the first few I gave up and sewed them by hand. But I stuck with it, learned to use some clamps, and by the eighth corner it was much better.
My inspiration is this bag for my soft uppers which I purchased years ago. It is zippered 3/4 of the way around, and is shaped to fit the uppers. It's made from a fabric similar to the jeep top material, but not quite as heavy.
Given this is largely new to me, I used some more of the old soft top and put together a small prototype of what I have in mind. The layout and design will be similar to the full size version, but will give me some experience before tackling the actual piece (and a lot cheaper than when I actually have to start paying for material
).So I came up with a quick design idea, laid out a pattern, and cut up more of the top.
And then off to the machine. I'm already a hack fabricator, now I'm well on my way to becoming a hack seamstress...
Wait, what?
As a newbie, the most challenging part for me were the eight inside corners. These were quite tough to figure out how to get the machine in there, and in fact the first few I gave up and sewed them by hand. But I stuck with it, learned to use some clamps, and by the eighth corner it was much better.
OP
Then it was on to the top panel, which includes a zipper also salvaged from the jeep top. Again, I spent a good bit of time on Sailrite's site learning about zippers and how to sew them in.
When I do a project like this, I like to think of ways to make them unique, and apply a personal touch. When I build furniture, I always add hand carvings. In this case, I thought an extra accent stich on the top panel would be pleasing to the eye, so here is what I did:
OK - complete bullshit. What actually happened is that when I laid out and cut the pieces, I failed to account for the addition 1/2" of material required on each side of the zipper to properly create the seam. So I had to add back some material to make it work.
I'm learning a lot going through the prototype exercise. And the extra time on the machine didn't hurt either.
When I do a project like this, I like to think of ways to make them unique, and apply a personal touch. When I build furniture, I always add hand carvings. In this case, I thought an extra accent stich on the top panel would be pleasing to the eye, so here is what I did:
OK - complete bullshit. What actually happened is that when I laid out and cut the pieces, I failed to account for the addition 1/2" of material required on each side of the zipper to properly create the seam. So I had to add back some material to make it work.
I'm learning a lot going through the prototype exercise. And the extra time on the machine didn't hurt either.
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Then it was on to the top panel, which includes a zipper also salvaged from the jeep top. Again, I spent a good bit of time on Sailrite's site learning about zippers and how to sew them in.
View attachment 431927
When I do a project like this, I like to think of ways to make them unique, and apply a personal touch. When I make furniture, I always add hand carvings. In this case, I though an extra accent stich on the top panel would be pleasing to the eye, so here is what I did:
View attachment 431929
OK - complete bullshit. What actually happened is that when I laid out and cut the pieces, I failed to account for the addition 1/2" of material required on each side of the zipper to properly create the seam. So I had to add back some material to make it work.
I'm learning a lot going through the prototype exercise. And the extra time on the machine didn't hurt either.
To me the addition of the extra stitch looks awesome!
OP
As with many things, order of operation is critical, and I'll have to spend more time thinking these things through. After I sewed on the top, I got to the last required seam which is to join the zippered section to the remaining side where it meets up. When I got to this point there was no way to get the machine in there to make the last seam.
So I turned the bag right side out (very satisfying, by the way), and completed that last seam by hand - it's the horizontal stich just below the zipper.
And then to complete the prototype, I added two straps to act as a handle. Again thinking about order of operations, on the half door bags I will want these handles to be much more substantial to carry the weight of the doors, and will likely run them all the way around the bag. I could not do that here after sawing the rest of the bag together. On the big bag I will have to do this prior to putting it all together. Another lesson learned.
I was going to build this thing and then toss it - but I think it turned out pretty cool. So I may find a use for it.
This was a whole bunch of fun. I'm hooked.
So I turned the bag right side out (very satisfying, by the way), and completed that last seam by hand - it's the horizontal stich just below the zipper.
And then to complete the prototype, I added two straps to act as a handle. Again thinking about order of operations, on the half door bags I will want these handles to be much more substantial to carry the weight of the doors, and will likely run them all the way around the bag. I could not do that here after sawing the rest of the bag together. On the big bag I will have to do this prior to putting it all together. Another lesson learned.
I was going to build this thing and then toss it - but I think it turned out pretty cool. So I may find a use for it.
This was a whole bunch of fun. I'm hooked.
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OP
As I understand it, it is mainly aesthetic. It is a great looking seam, but more difficult to do, and is not as waterproof as other seams such as the semi and full felled seams.
But I believe it is strong, as to complete it you sew a reinforcing piece (there is a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment) on the back of the seam. It also helps to keep the seam flat. I do believe the French seam has largely replaced piping, which was the old school method.
Then it was on to the top panel, which includes a zipper also salvaged from the jeep top. Again, I spent a good bit of time on Sailrite's site learning about zippers and how to sew them in.
View attachment 431927
When I do a project like this, I like to think of ways to make them unique, and apply a personal touch. When I build furniture, I always add hand carvings. In this case, I thought an extra accent stich on the top panel would be pleasing to the eye, so here is what I did:
View attachment 431929
OK - complete bullshit. What actually happened is that when I laid out and cut the pieces, I failed to account for the addition 1/2" of material required on each side of the zipper to properly create the seam. So I had to add back some material to make it work.
I'm learning a lot going through the prototype exercise. And the extra time on the machine didn't hurt either.
You're going about it the right way. Blunder through, make mistakes, learn. Practice, practice, practice!! Your seams are as straight as an arrow - *RESPECT* Heavy material like that scares me - although I'm sure its like anything else, just get used to it. 99% of my sewing is light fabric, or ultra-light, and sometimes "barely there".
Nice work. Not to make things any harder for you, but have you considered adding any type of padding or other protection since you're throwing these on painted doors?
)
Congrats on your first project! Yes, figuring out the necessary "sequence of events" takes some experimentation. Keep at it, your bag looks great!
OP
Yes, I've given that some thought. I was hoping to find some thicker, padded material - but I've not looked yet. But I do think if I can find thick enough canvas that it should work fine.