That RMS leak opinion question

Jerry Bransford said:
I have it in my garage and the label confirms it's a conventional.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have one in my garage too and it doesn't really say what it is. Just says high mileage, not conventional or syn blend.
I sent them an email to clarify. I'd like use a conventional High Mileage, not synthetic blend, because my RMS is also seeping.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
DougyintheBushies said:
I have 2-mopar RMS and fel pro pan gasket, anaerobic sealer in the pile of parts for my transmission swap. I plan to do the RMS at the same time.
I would love to see what pattern you use on the bearing cap with the sealer.
I hate doing rear main seals almost as much as I hate the smell of burning oil under the Jeep.
Click to expand...

A few things:

1) I don’t like this job. There’s no way to confirm it’s right till it’s too late and it’s easy to mess up
2) The Fel-Pro instructions say to add a thin layer of grease to the lips if you won’t be starting the engine soon. I’m doing a swap, so it will be awhile.
3) Then I dipped the seal in gear oil to give some lubrication as I pushed it in. I used the little tool Fel-Pro sends. It worked.
4) I cocked the two gaskets so the upper went in about 70% of the way and I met it with the lower going on the other way. I put a dot of anaerobic gasket maker on each side where the two seals met.
5) I used this pattern, and after I torqued down the bearing caps to 80ft/lb it oozed out a bit around the edges both fore and aft.

IMG_2541.png


IMG_2638.jpeg


I don’t have any confirmation it has sealed yet. Doing the oil pan later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
egclassic said:
Yeah, I have one in my garage too and it doesn't really say what it is. Just says high mileage, not conventional or syn blend.
I sent them an email to clarify. I'd like use a conventional High Mileage, not synthetic blend, because my RMS is also seeping.
Click to expand...
Another source of High Mileage conventional 10W-30 is Fram. I dunno who makes it for Fram but I'd trust Fram to have selected a good quality for them to have put their name on it. F630 by the quart, or F630-5QT for a 5 quart container. It's in various auto parts stores like Advance Auto.

Fram.JPG
 
JMT said:
A few things:

1) I don’t like this job. There’s no way to confirm it’s right till it’s too late and it’s easy to mess up
2) The Fel-Pro instructions say to add a thin layer of grease to the lips if you won’t be starting the engine soon. I’m doing a swap, so it will be awhile.
3) Then I dipped the seal in gear oil to give some lubrication as I pushed it in. I used the little tool Fel-Pro sends. It worked.
4) I cocked the two gaskets so the upper went in about 70% of the way and I met it with the lower going on the other way. I put a dot of anaerobic gasket maker on each side where the two seals met.
5) I used this pattern, and after I torqued down the bearing caps to 80ft/lb it oozed out a bit around the edges both fore and aft.

View attachment 499305

View attachment 499306

I don’t have any confirmation it has sealed yet. Doing the oil pan later.
Click to expand...
Good luck. Like overhauling an engine you don't know how replacing the RMS turned out until you start the engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
I ran across STP Conventional HM 10W-30 at my local AutoZone. Decent price, as well.

Anyone have experience with this brand?

Screenshot_20240209-142054_AutoZone.jpg
 
IMO, any oil is fine as long as you change it regularly.
I've put 300k + on 2 different vehicles with Walmart oil.
Click to expand...
True, but this is about running HM oil to treat an RMS leak to see if it helps before changing it.

Not every brand is going to have the same additive pack, some will probably slow or stop leaks better than others. For instance Valvoline Maxlife HM has had a great rep for stopping RMS leaks. Not sure I'd go with a small brand HM just to get straight conventional oil over a major brand syn blend HM oil.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: egclassic
AzJeff said:
Not every brand is going to have the same additive pack, some will probably slow or stop leaks better than others. For instance Valvoline Maxlife HM has had a great rep for stopping RMS leaks...
Click to expand...

I would agree. The Valvoline Maxlife HM has slowed down my RMS leak more than the conventional HM oils I tried before.
 
im about to tackle this tomorrow. I read a ton and seems whether to offset the seal or not is up in the air. I will definitely be using dino oil
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Nopp said:
im about to tackle this tomorrow. I read a ton and seems whether to offset the seal or not is up in the air. I will definitely be using dino oil
Click to expand...

I know. It’s annoying. I read and read. It’s nerve-racking. Just finished yesterday. I lubricated them with gear oil to slide in better. I offset them with a dab of anaerobic gasket maker where they meet. We’ll see. I really hope it’s sealed
 
  • Like
Reactions: DougyintheBushies and Jerry Bransford
I’ll be going by FSM. Hasn’t failed me yet. Well once I thought it did but after I pulled the pan back off and found out the pan gasket rolled right under the bearing cap/rms.

IMG_6181.png
 
JMT said:
I know. It’s annoying. I read and read. It’s nerve-racking. Just finished yesterday. I lubricated them with gear oil to slide in better. I offset them with a dab of anaerobic gasket maker where they meet. We’ll see. I really hope it’s sealed
Click to expand...

I hope this works out man. Good luck. It is nerve racking. Pain in the butt and the cost of oil now geez.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
explorerlyon said:
FYI, this is the Pennzoil delivered today from Amazon. Conventional, not a blend.
View attachment 500230

This is on a shelf of a local store. Also not a blend.
View attachment 500231
Click to expand...

yea there's 2 different one's. Jerry called them awhile back and you have to watch for the synthetic blend labeling because they look the same. but the one that just says MOTOR OIL is conventional....
 
Top Bottom