A little later than I expected but here it is.
Recap: I overheated and cracked my 0331 head. Ordered a new Clearwater head and it shipped out to me quickly (FL to AZ in 4 days).
Some projects I had on the back burner that I did was: oil pan gasket, timing cover stripped threads and water pump. The oil pan gasket was bulging out near the harmonic balancer and had a slight leak. The water pump was 7+ years old (appeared to be the original), with all the work we had planned I changed them out.
Here is the list of parts I used:
Cooling system:
Heater core Upper E 88429
Heater core lower E 87792
*Thermostat gasket: Fel 35630
Lower rad hose: C 72242
Upper rad hose: C 71933
Water pump: Mopar MOP 68382492AA
Water pump gasket: Fel-Pro Fel 35629
Engine:
*Cylinder head: Clearwater CHR238ZN
*Cylinder Head bolts: ARP 146-3601**
Exhaust bolts: Dorman DOR 03127
*Head gasket: Fel 9076PT1
*Intake & Exhaust gasket: Fel MS93094
Oil pan gasket: Fel OS34308R
Serpentine belt: 4060882
Timing cover gasket set: Fel TCS45458
Timing chain: MOP 53020444
Timing Crank Gear MOP 53020443
Timing Cam Gear MOP 53010557AA
*Valve cover gasket: Fel VS50458R
*what you need to swap the cylinder head, the other parts I changed because it was convenient and they needed to be changed on my jeep.
**I reused bolts 11 and 14 since the ARP kit had no studed bolts (to hold the A/C bracket and ground).
Theres may forums and videos with detailed instructions on how to do a head swap so I'm not going to be going into detail. Taking parts off wasn't too difficult. Labeling the bolts and hardware into clear ziploc bags was beneficial.
With the radiator removed we used a 'Y' shaped pully puller to remove the water pump pully and harmonic balancer. The only concern was the close clearance with the A/C condenser and tip of the puller being about an inch away. We had a piece of cardboard in between in case the wrench slipped.
Speaking of A/C, removing the head with the A/C lines in place made the whole process "fun". I sat on the grill, left foot on the passenger trailing control arm, right foot on top of the diff. My buddy handed me the cylinder head from the passenger side, I sat it on my lap while he got on top a step stool (my jeep has a 4" lift, 35" tires). From there we tilted the head (cylinder 6 side up, 1 down) to fit under the A/C lines.
The Clearwater head is noticeably heavier than the stock. My guess 15-20 lbs more, I strongly recommend having someone help with this.
We added a step to the torque sequence (75 ft-lbs) . We did 25, 45, 75, then 110 ft-lbs. It helped me get used to when the specific torque rating was about to click.
When removing the valve cover, head, and oil pan bolts I organized on a piece of cardboard in the ordination they were removed. The push rods and rockers I carefully laid out onto cardboard, poking holes to keep them in place.
Power steering pump was laid to the side. Removing the driver side crossmember (engine bay grill to firewall support) to make it a little bit easier to work around. We didn't remove the driver side fender because we didn't want to mess with the EVAP system.
Having the milkshake all over internal parts wasn't too bad to clean up except for the welded sheet metal inside the valve cover. It was a PITA to clean. Brake cleaner didn't really help here so I used foaming degreaser. I leaned it up against a wall and sprayed behind the metal and let gravity do it's work to coat the inside area. I came back after 15 minutes to find a puddle of the milkshake residue.
We cleaned the valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, thermostat housing, parts of the block that was reachable, the intake and throttle body. With a lint free rag, I wiped the under side of the engine where the crankshaft and piston rings are. I didn't use any kind of degreaser/ cleaner here. I didn't see any milkshake residue caked up, just droplets forming all over. I just wiped what I could see.
Assembly
With the exception of the C shaped oil pan bracket, reinstalling the oil pan went smoothly. The fel pro clips worked wonderfully. Timing chain and gears installed smoothly. Before removing the original timing parts, I measured the top it had a 1/4" slack, on the bottom 1/2-3/4" slack. The new timing set barely had any slack, maybe a 1/16- 1/8". I read on some other posts, people had a lot more slack on new chains of different brands. I went mopar and glad I did.
If you have a 0331 head that hasn't cracked yet I would recommend gathering all the parts you need, get a new head and replace it before it cracks. Having done the job cleaning and ordering parts, I think it would be easier in the sense of less cleaning the milkshake residue to swap the head before it cracks. You can potentially save time by having all the parts you need instead of waiting with a vehicles that is dismantled.
If one did this they would just have to wipe down oil and not necessarily have to clean/decontamination all those parts I mentioned earlier. At the end of the day it's your ride and your money, you do what best suits you. Just my 2 cents.
A big shout out to jeepguy03, bromel, and JKP for helping me answer my questions and finding the right parts.
Jeep is still running strong, no coolant loss or oil leaks!
Recap: I overheated and cracked my 0331 head. Ordered a new Clearwater head and it shipped out to me quickly (FL to AZ in 4 days).
Some projects I had on the back burner that I did was: oil pan gasket, timing cover stripped threads and water pump. The oil pan gasket was bulging out near the harmonic balancer and had a slight leak. The water pump was 7+ years old (appeared to be the original), with all the work we had planned I changed them out.
Here is the list of parts I used:
Cooling system:
Heater core Upper E 88429
Heater core lower E 87792
*Thermostat gasket: Fel 35630
Lower rad hose: C 72242
Upper rad hose: C 71933
Water pump: Mopar MOP 68382492AA
Water pump gasket: Fel-Pro Fel 35629
Engine:
*Cylinder head: Clearwater CHR238ZN
*Cylinder Head bolts: ARP 146-3601**
Exhaust bolts: Dorman DOR 03127
*Head gasket: Fel 9076PT1
*Intake & Exhaust gasket: Fel MS93094
Oil pan gasket: Fel OS34308R
Serpentine belt: 4060882
Timing cover gasket set: Fel TCS45458
Timing chain: MOP 53020444
Timing Crank Gear MOP 53020443
Timing Cam Gear MOP 53010557AA
*Valve cover gasket: Fel VS50458R
*what you need to swap the cylinder head, the other parts I changed because it was convenient and they needed to be changed on my jeep.
**I reused bolts 11 and 14 since the ARP kit had no studed bolts (to hold the A/C bracket and ground).
Theres may forums and videos with detailed instructions on how to do a head swap so I'm not going to be going into detail. Taking parts off wasn't too difficult. Labeling the bolts and hardware into clear ziploc bags was beneficial.
With the radiator removed we used a 'Y' shaped pully puller to remove the water pump pully and harmonic balancer. The only concern was the close clearance with the A/C condenser and tip of the puller being about an inch away. We had a piece of cardboard in between in case the wrench slipped.
Speaking of A/C, removing the head with the A/C lines in place made the whole process "fun". I sat on the grill, left foot on the passenger trailing control arm, right foot on top of the diff. My buddy handed me the cylinder head from the passenger side, I sat it on my lap while he got on top a step stool (my jeep has a 4" lift, 35" tires). From there we tilted the head (cylinder 6 side up, 1 down) to fit under the A/C lines.
The Clearwater head is noticeably heavier than the stock. My guess 15-20 lbs more, I strongly recommend having someone help with this.
We added a step to the torque sequence (75 ft-lbs) . We did 25, 45, 75, then 110 ft-lbs. It helped me get used to when the specific torque rating was about to click.
When removing the valve cover, head, and oil pan bolts I organized on a piece of cardboard in the ordination they were removed. The push rods and rockers I carefully laid out onto cardboard, poking holes to keep them in place.
Power steering pump was laid to the side. Removing the driver side crossmember (engine bay grill to firewall support) to make it a little bit easier to work around. We didn't remove the driver side fender because we didn't want to mess with the EVAP system.
Having the milkshake all over internal parts wasn't too bad to clean up except for the welded sheet metal inside the valve cover. It was a PITA to clean. Brake cleaner didn't really help here so I used foaming degreaser. I leaned it up against a wall and sprayed behind the metal and let gravity do it's work to coat the inside area. I came back after 15 minutes to find a puddle of the milkshake residue.
We cleaned the valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, thermostat housing, parts of the block that was reachable, the intake and throttle body. With a lint free rag, I wiped the under side of the engine where the crankshaft and piston rings are. I didn't use any kind of degreaser/ cleaner here. I didn't see any milkshake residue caked up, just droplets forming all over. I just wiped what I could see.
Assembly
With the exception of the C shaped oil pan bracket, reinstalling the oil pan went smoothly. The fel pro clips worked wonderfully. Timing chain and gears installed smoothly. Before removing the original timing parts, I measured the top it had a 1/4" slack, on the bottom 1/2-3/4" slack. The new timing set barely had any slack, maybe a 1/16- 1/8". I read on some other posts, people had a lot more slack on new chains of different brands. I went mopar and glad I did.
If you have a 0331 head that hasn't cracked yet I would recommend gathering all the parts you need, get a new head and replace it before it cracks. Having done the job cleaning and ordering parts, I think it would be easier in the sense of less cleaning the milkshake residue to swap the head before it cracks. You can potentially save time by having all the parts you need instead of waiting with a vehicles that is dismantled.
If one did this they would just have to wipe down oil and not necessarily have to clean/decontamination all those parts I mentioned earlier. At the end of the day it's your ride and your money, you do what best suits you. Just my 2 cents.
A big shout out to jeepguy03, bromel, and JKP for helping me answer my questions and finding the right parts.
Jeep is still running strong, no coolant loss or oil leaks!
