Is there any advantage to not just opening the hole for the body mount in the C brackets? Cut up a little so the body mount still slips through. Couldn’t you just bolt everything back together like it was before you raised the body mounts?
The Hidden Body Lift
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Is there any advantage to not just opening the hole for the body mount in the C brackets? Cut up a little so the body mount still slips through. Couldn’t you just bolt everything back together like it was before you raised the body mounts?
OP
Assuming it works work the way you describe, it isn't much work to do it the way I did it. Then the end result is much cleaner and the crossmember removal is still easier than before.
The GR mounts also sits partly on top of the frame, so there would be a lot of material to remove from the Savvy C to make the hole large enough.
I’m missing something here. I’m going to have to walk out to the parking garage and look at mine in person. It would be exactly like “stock savvy” if you just opened up the hole in my head. I might just be afraid of the welder haha
OP
I imagine that even you can be no worse of a welder than I am.
I’ve had a welding mask on and even stepped on a pedal before. But that doesn’t mean I know how to weld!
OP
One recommendation I would offer to those considering this. Start with a rigid 1.25" body lift pick like Savvy or Currie. A compressible puck like JKS won't set an even lift height across all the mounts and won't allow you to put the new raised mounts in the right place.
OP
One of these days I'll show ya'll how to raise the 3 under the door up even higher by using the rear body mounts. Then you take a flat head bolt and use it to dimple the bottom mount so the bolt is flush to the bottom of the body mount. If such things matter.
You have my attention.
So did you counter-sink these?
If not, what about welding large washers around them to protect the heads?
Not smooth, but a little armor.
If not, what about welding large washers around them to protect the heads?
Not smooth, but a little armor.
OP
OP
Take a look at the rear mounts compared to the others.
If I remember correctly the bottoms can be swapped between the uppers?
Any reason why Jeep made different sized pucks?
OP
Piloted counter sink bit with a brass tube attached to the end to locate the counter sink to the nutsert. Then I finished the job with a router bit in a drill. Crude, but it got the job done.
No, the bottoms don't swap exactly between the uppers. I use the whole rear mount which lets the body mount welded to the frame move even higher. You can swap the lower onto the upper of the regular side mounts with some tweaks though. To do the countersink, just put the bolt in the mount, set that on a short piece of 1" .120 wall tube and mash it flat with the shop press. Make a perfect countersink to use a flat head bolt.
It'd be nice to have the bolts not hanging below the brackets. Not worth redoing the raised brackets at this point though at least not if I don't mess them up. What tweaks are needed to make the shorts fit the sides in my existing raised mounts? I've got a few extra shorts on the shelf I can swap in and might need to find a few more.
Super clean and impressive mods, well done. I want to do the rear cut and raise.
OP
That's a loaded question. I have been catching the body mounts in recent years, but not in ways that have stopped me. But at the same time, I am careful with how aggressively I use the factory siders because I don't trust them. I do catch the rear bumper often enough to scar even the newish low profile version I installed last spring. After counter sinking the skid bolts, I immediately wiped over those areas with fresh rock rash. All that being said, 35s would raise everything that much higher than my current 33s.
In the end, I did all this because I wanted to and because I could do it and because I know the side mounts will be valuable in the future once I can really use the sliders. Plus I like the look a lot. 35s are on the short list and real sliders are after that.
When you drop one of the tall lowers off and set one of the short ones in its place, it all makes a lot more sense.