I have thought about that and haven't ruled it out. I'd buy a built hp30 for the right price. The cost differential is still significant given the starting cost of used hp30 and a new currie 44 housing. The rest of the costs are about the same. I know it's not necessary but for my money, I lean towards a new 44.not near enough
But back on topic.
If you can swing a midarm go for it. I’d find a HP30 and go 5.13’s as long as you will stay at 35’s. Then buy out the savvy catalog and you’d be a very happy person. Poorer but happy.
Any bigger tires then you are opening Pandora’s box money wise.
I thought the same way when I ordered my RJ44, I wouldn’t do it again.I have thought about that and haven't ruled it out. I'd buy a built hp30 for the right price. The cost differential is still significant given the starting cost of used hp30 and a new currie 44 housing. The rest of the costs are about the same. I know it's not necessary but for my money, I lean towards a new 44.
Just checking my understanding, if you outboard for short arms, would it need later modifications for the mid arm install assuming the spring height is not changing?I consider the shock outboard as a sort of gatekeeper mod for the midarm. Not in that one needs the other, but that a well tuned outboard will offer far greater value and a broader range of performance increases than the midarm will. And if you aren't pushing the capability of a rig with an outboard, you will see very little benefit to the midarm.
No. The existing outboard from the short arms is unaffected by the addition of a mid arm. My last mid arm install had an outboard I had done a couple years earlier.Just checking my understanding, if you outboard for short arms, would it need later modifications for the mid arm install assuming the spring height is not changing?
I am also considering the outboard mod also and longer shocks in the front with new mounts to accommodate with the possibility of a mid-arm set-up at a later date to. I would like to improve the climbing ability and get better high speed control. I’m looking at using the poly performance shock towers and running a set of Fox shocks. I would like to have all the parts ready so when I tear it down I can get the work done without delays.No. The existing outboard from the short arms is unaffected by the addition of a mid arm. My last mid arm install had an outboard I had done a couple years earlier.
And if the ride height were to change, the mid arm would not change other than normal control arm adjustments. What would change is the outboard because the shock travel bias would change.
There is nothing specific to the midarm that changes the ride height. And it doesn't really matter if the outboard happens before or after. Only one minor difference happens with the angle of the upper shock mount because the mount gets positioned 90deg to the lower arm. But the angle difference between short and mid isn't enough to matter if the midarm is added afterwards.I am also considering the outboard mod also and longer shocks in the front with new mounts to accommodate with the possibility of a mid-arm set-up at a later date to. I would like to improve the climbing ability and get better high speed control. I’m looking at using the poly performance shock towers and running a set of Fox shocks. I would like to have all the parts ready so when I tear it down I can get the work done without delays.
My questions are would I be better to do the outboard and mid arm at the same time? Does the ride height change with the mid arm install ( keeping same springs, I would not think so) Is there a shock length front and rear that is the go to size for these upgrades and is it different from short arm to the mid arm.
I am currently running a 06 LJ, 35’s ( max I will go) terraflex short arms, Currie 4” springs.
Would the shock length be the same. I think I see people using 11” travel shocks for the rear.There is nothing specific to the midarm that changes the ride height. And it doesn't really matter if the outboard happens before or after. Only one minor difference happens with the angle of the upper shock mount because the mount gets positioned 90deg to the lower arm. But the angle difference between short and mid isn't enough to matter if the midarm is added afterwards.
12" typically for the rearWould the shock length be the same. I think I see people using 11” travel shocks for the rear.
Midarm changes nothing about the shock length.Would the shock length be the same. I think I see people using 11” travel shocks for the rear.
I agree with this!not near enough
But back on topic.
If you can swing a midarm go for it. I’d find a HP30 and go 5.13’s as long as you will stay at 35’s. Then buy out the savvy catalog and you’d be a very happy person. Poorer but happy.
Any bigger tires then you are opening Pandora’s box money wise.
....
My shocks have not been outboarded, yet, but I do have a savvy midarm on the shelf. I don't necessarily agree with the belief that if you haven't outboarded or are not gonna outboard that you don't need a midarm. At some point with this setup you will need some form of geometry correction. That being said, you could always keep the shortarm and use a correction bracket to improve the climbing manners of the jeep, which negates the "need" for a midarm if you're only looking for a correction to geometry.
I should add that an outboard is easier to do with a triangulated rear because the track bar is no longer there to shift the axle side to side. This makes the shock mounts easier to setup. But again, many outboards have been done before there was a Savvy mid arm. And many preexisting outboards have had the midarm added.There is nothing specific to the midarm that changes the ride height. And it doesn't really matter if the outboard happens before or after. Only one minor difference happens with the angle of the upper shock mount because the mount gets positioned 90deg to the lower arm. But the angle difference between short and mid isn't enough to matter if the midarm is added afterwards.
Does "Tony at genright" have a number/email? I want to go genright all around my tj...Call Tony at Genright, he'll set you up. You'll be on 40s faster than you can say whatever it is that people that run 40" tires say.
Does "Tony at genright" have a number/email? I want to go genright all around my tj...
thank you!
There are some really dumb suggestions, this one isn't the dumbest but not by much.If it were me I’d put the axles from your JK under the LJ and put it on 37s, that leaves the door wide open for tons and 40s on the 4 door!
Tight bro. Good thing I wasn’t asking your opinion.There are some really dumb suggestions, this one isn't the dumbest but not by much.
First, thanks for dropping in. Is there anything I'm getting wrong from the beginning of this build?There are some really dumb suggestions, this one isn't the dumbest but not by much.
Sorry, I got lost in all the back-and-forth bullshit and didn't keep track of the build. Want to condense it into one concise post?First, thanks for dropping in. Is there anything I'm getting wrong from the beginning of this build?