Tie rod flip insert

lBasket

lBasket

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Working on the tie rod flip. The tapered insert I have is backwards of the BFH video, where the lip is on the skinny part of the taper and therefore on the bottom of the knuckle instead of the top.

Just wanted to confirm this is fine and I don't have the wrong insert before I burn it in?

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lBasket said:
Working on the tie rod flip. The tapered insert I have is backwards of the BFH video, where the lip is on the skinny part of the taper and therefore on the bottom of the knuckle instead of the top.

Just wanted to confirm this is fine and I don't have the wrong insert before I burn it in?

View attachment 672181
View attachment 672182
Click to expand...

The insert I used years ago had a flange on the top side and did not extend past the bottom of the drilled knuckle arm. This is a critical detail to ensure that the tapered bolt interference connection is actually interfering. I also welded the flange. Others have used high strength thread locker.

The other critical detail is to make sure the taper of the insert matches the taper of the bolt. That is not always the case. I needed to correct mine with a tapered reamer.
 
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jjvw said:
The insert I used years ago had a flange on the top side and did not extend past the bottom of the drilled knuckle arm. This is a critical detail to ensure that the tapered bolt interference connection is actually interfering. I also welded the flange. Others have used high strength thread locker.

The other critical detail is to make sure the taper of the insert matches the taper of the bolt. That is not always the case. I needed to correct mine with a tapered reamer.
Click to expand...

I will check the taper more carefully tomorrow, I will be annoyed if that does not fit because these are advertised specifically as for TJs.

So you're saying this won't work at all because the lip extends past the bottom?
 
lBasket said:
I will check the taper more carefully tomorrow, I will be annoyed if that does not fit because these are advertised specifically as for TJs.

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Click to expand...

Coloring the tapered bolt with a sharpie, tightening the connection, disassembling everything, and looking at the wear on the sharpie mark will tell you about the fit.
 
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jjvw said:
Coloring the tapered bolt with a sharpie, tightening the connection, disassembling everything, and looking at the wear on the sharpie mark will tell you about the fit.
Click to expand...

So it doesn't matter where the lip is really as long as it all meshes together like it should then
 
lBasket said:
So it doesn't matter where the lip is really as long as it all meshes together like it should then
Click to expand...

It matters that the lip be on the fat side of the taper as much as it matters that the insert does not extend beyond the nutted side. Think about how the bolted interference connection works.
 
jjvw said:
It matters that the lip be on the fat side of the taper as much as it matters that the insert does not extend beyond the nutted side. Think about how the bolted interference connection works.
Click to expand...

So taper on one side, nut on the other side keeps the tie rod in place, and the taper is welded to the knuckle, so it can't move? I feel like that doesn't match what you're trying to say though
 
lBasket said:
So taper on one side, nut on the other side keeps the tie rod in place, and the taper is welded to the knuckle, so it can't move? I feel like that doesn't match what you're trying to say though
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The nut and washer need to contact the knuckle surface directly. The insert cannot be in the way of that.
 
jjvw said:
The nut and washer need to contact the knuckle surface directly. The insert cannot be in the way of that.
Click to expand...

So when the lip is on top the taper is squeezing it into the knuckle against the nut. It is not the same effect if you weld the insert to the knuckle? because now you're relying entirely on the welds around the lip of the taper which won't be as strong as the bolted connection?
 
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lBasket said:
So when the lip is on top the taper is squeezing it into the knuckle against the nut. It is not the same effect if you weld the insert to the knuckle? because now you're relying entirely on the welds around the lip of the taper which won't be as strong as the bolted connection?
Click to expand...

With all the little details going on, there are reasons why Blaine won't sell a BMB tie rod flip kit.
 
lBasket said:
So when the lip is on top the taper is squeezing it into the knuckle against the nut. It is not the same effect if you weld the insert to the knuckle? because now you're relying entirely on the welds around the lip of the taper which won't be as strong as the bolted connection?
Click to expand...
The insert needs to be made in such a way that the shoulder constrains one side and the nut constrains the other side. The best way to do them is in such a way that the weld is only for looks. If you are depending on the weld, you may encounter a life altering accident at some point.

Mine are done so that the shoulder is under the nut but they are flush since I counter bore them.
 
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So could one just grind down the lip of the insert flush with the knuckle so the nut interfaces with the knuckle?
 
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