TJ axle swap options

44s or tons?


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Gdnamesrtaken

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Alright, I’m in that predicament that comes in any Jeepers life. It’s time for bigger and stronger axles with som lockers. I currently have a 2001 TJ 4.0 5 speed 35s on stock axles just regeared. I plan on going to 37s soon but could see myself ending at 40s. I don’t do anything crazy but I go everywhere my Jeep will take me and more. Mainly trails and rock crawling, no mud. Still want it to be semi streetable as well, it’s not a daily but I want to drive it sometimeI currently have 2 possible deals I’m looking at.

-Deal 1
Chevy Dana 60 front with hydro assist
14 bolt rear
Dodge NP205
$1500

-Deal 2
Stock JK Rubicon axles that we’re pulled for tons
Complete ready to use
$2000

I know either way I’m going to have to get a swap kit and custom driveshafts. I will try to use the stock axle shafts and lockers at first until I can afford ARB and chromoly. I want to use my current wheels and tires (With an adapter of course) until I can afford beadlocks.

My questions are these:
1. What will I need to make the JK E lockers work?
2. What will I need to change to use the JK disc brakes?
3. Will my 15” procomp wheels clear JK brakes?
4. What would you do in my situation?

Long post but I want to weigh all my options before I jump the gun on anything. Thanks
 
I can't answer your questions, but @David Kishpaugh has seem to had a lot of luck using JK axles under TJs, as I've seen him do it a lot.

I know Blaine doesn't like that setup, but Dave seems to like it a lot, and it's a good way to keep costs down.

Someone on here has done it, so hopefully they will chime in.

If you're planning to do this right, you're going to need to stretch it for 37s, and probably even more for 40s. I'm assuming you already know that though.
 
My questions are these:
1. What will I need to make the JK E lockers work? Wire up a switch in the cab to the lockers. Just like an Eaton Elocker
2. What will I need to change to use the JK disc brakes? I don't know if the TJ banjo bolts to the calipers. Also not sure if your master needs to be changed (I don't think so)
3. Will my 15” procomp wheels clear JK brakes? Nope
4. What would you do in my situation? I am in your situation kind of... Do you really plan on going to 40s? If so, I don't think the JK axles will like it. Especially the BJs and Wheel bearings.


So I was at a tipping point for my Jeep LJ too. I have been running 36s on stock Rubicon lockers for 4 years. I blew up the limited slip in the rear locker last year, this year, broke a front locker (spiders) that I put in the rear.

Sooooo, it was either fix with an Eaton E locker in rear , and sell jeep OR go 1tons...

I am sure the pictures can tell you what my decision was....hahah

I plan to sell my TJ built Rubicon D44s with new Eaton in rear, my steering, (5) 36" Tires/rims, all 8 of my new TMR dbl adj CAs w/ JJs, to fund this new project.

LJ will be getting a shortened kpD60 (65.5") and 10.25 (65") w/rear disc conversion, TMR 3 link front/ 4 link rear with all new steering and 40s.

F350.jpg


KPD60Front.jpg


10.25Rear.jpg
 
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Chris, thank you, I do plan on stretching at some point, for now I have metalcloak front fenders to allow a bit more room to play and not sure what I’m going to do for the rear yet.
 
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LieutenantJohnson, it seems many people do end up going tons in the long run. My main concerns about tons vs 44s are the low hanging pumpkin, having to shorten the axle as you mentioned, and the extra weight. What do you think about these differences? Considering you are making that swap currently I figure you might have some good input on it.
 
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My questions are these:
1. What will I need to make the JK E lockers work?
Two wires to a switch, third wire can be removed.

2. What will I need to change to use the JK disc brakes?
Nothing, you already have a brake line to your drums. You will have to run new lines on the axle. You will have to make a little adapter for the parking brake conn etiology at the axle side.

3. Will my 15” procomp wheels clear JK brakes?
You’ll have a JK bolt pattern, you can find JK stock wheels cheap. Other than that, I can’t say.

4. What would you do in my situation?
That’s for you to decide and plan, I don’t know what your goal is.
 
LieutenantJohnson, it seems many people do end up going tons in the long run. My main concerns about tons vs 44s are the low hanging pumpkin, having to shorten the axle as you mentioned, and the extra weight. What do you think about these differences? Considering you are making that swap currently I figure you might have some good input on it.


Ground clearance wont be an issue on 40s. As for narrowing it, not a big deal to run a custom shaft. I need to be narrower for the tight tree's up here. As for the power, you can get most of that back with gearing. I plan on going to 5.13 and I have an 5.3 LM7 under the hood.

By all means, going to 1tons is a big step. It most likely involves suspension changes and steering. If you plan on 35s only, stick with 44s.
 
I have a Dana 60 high pinion rear axle and yes that thing is a PIG even though it is only 60" wide. I also have a Dana 44 high pinion front axle that is a narrowed Ford axle. I wanted narrow axles like LT Johnson because of our trails up here in the PNW. And with the front axle by going to Wagoneer width I can get shafts off the shelf.

No one can tell you what to do with your Jeep. It's going to be your choice and yes some will give you grief about what you choose. If you see yourself going to 40" tires then I agree go with tons. I'm going to stay around the 38" tires I have now and see how long my HP44 axle will last.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, I still haven't decided 100% on axles but I did pick up a deal on a set of 37s today so that will be the tire size. I really don't see a need to go bigger on such a small and lightweight rig.
 
If you are planning on 40s, then definitely get 60s. Or at least axles with Dana 60 size u-joints on the outers, however you do it.

Also look at 99-04 Superduty (even 05+) axles instead of the Chevy stuff. That way you can keep you transfer case and don't have to worry about swapping to passenger drop axles.
 
If you are planning on 40s, then definitely get 60s. Or at least axles with Dana 60 size u-joints on the outers, however you do it.

Also look at 99-04 Superduty (even 05+) axles instead of the Chevy stuff. That way you can keep you transfer case and don't have to worry about swapping to passenger drop axles.
The newer stuff has 10 inch ring gears and the even bigger 450/550 stuff has great unit bearings. Very sought after stuff there.