TJ cranks but won't start

W

Wranglermanglerusmc

New Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2022
Messages
14
Location
Denver
I’ve read every forum on here and still haven’t found an answer. Drove ‘99 jeep tj manual i6 just fine and then the next day.. Crank no start. No codes. No pressure at schrader valve. Changed fuel pump. Have 60psi at schrader. Changed the cam sensor. Nothing. Went ahead and changed the whole distributor. Top dead center at the 0 degree mark, opda was seeded nicely at 5 o’ clock. Oil screw at 11. Crank crank no start. Changed crankshaft position sensor. Crank crank no start. Checked fuses without a multimeter (I’m broke). Nothing. I just hope someone can help me. She was running AWESOME night before. So much so I got a full tank of gas (and had to wrestle it changing the fuel pump lol). I’m just lost and hope there is a hero out there

Respectfully, Chris
 
I have a 98 and had a similar issue years ago. I had to change out the crank position sensor and the Pickup coil which is in top of the distributor. Since you said you changed out the cam sensor that would be the pickup coil in my year. But as Pfarmer asked do you have fire at the plugs?
 
Last edited:
My cam sensor is that disc pickup coil as well. Running to get a plug tester right now to make sure and will report back in about half an hour! Thank y’all
 
I’ll pull my spark plugs and check them all. Just feels like something is flying over my head since it was working great the night before it decided to crank and not start the next morning.
 
I checked my plugs. All good. I did however find this wire split in two. I have no idea what it is or does.

Ps. I do have a headlight problem to where I have to pull back and set it in the absolute perfect spot to get the lights on.

image.jpg
 
That is the vacuum feed for your heater controls. It is a small vacuum leak.

Just a thought, have you inspected your actuator pin and or ignition switch?
 
Thanks for the reply @Mall'er. That vacuum leak would be be significant enough to cause a crank no start would it? I haven’t checked the actuator pin and from what I’ve read, a bad ignition switch would cause no crank no start, right? I get good crank. I’m about to read up on the actuator pin
 
A bad ignition switch could cause a crank, no start. It can send a crank signal, but not a run signal.

The actuator pin, if broken, could prevent the ignition switch from turning enough to get the run signal also.

If you expose the ignition switch, you can turn it with a screwdriver or something of that nature and see if it starts, and/or test for the run signal.

The vacuum leak wouldn't be enough to prevent a start. You can fix that with just a piece of rubber hose to spice it.
 
I know you checked the pressure. but, are we sure it's getting fuel? Can you hit it with some starting fluid and see if you get any results?
 
@Mall'er @Mitchrb1 @Pfarmer
thank y’all! Perfected the timing and boom! She cranked (weak crank, cranks when given gas). Throwing signal for code for weak camshaft position sensor signal to the pcm but it’s a wong tong sensor. I learned my lesson. ALWAYS use mopar sensors. Runs strong now when she starts over. Will be saving up for the mopar camshaft sensor. Problem solved!
 
Top Bottom
Back