TJ Cutting / Steering Brakes

[DoOver]

Not with the door closed there's a little junk basket on the door panel that takes all that room up.

I like the idea. Just trying to find a more convenient mounting location.

 

[LONGJP2]

 

[mrblaine]

I really admire your approach but beyond the realm of what I'd be doing... I'm sure you thought of this but independent E-brake control?

NO, unless you want to buy him a crate of backing plates since he will break the anchor pin off every time he does a front dig and locks down one side in the rear.

 

[mrblaine]

BTW- on the ball valve thingy. What I had in mind is you close the ball valve to one side before you push down on the pedal. That way you can modulate the pressure to the side you need to hold.

 

[B00mb00m]

NO, unless you want to buy him a crate of backing plates since he will break the anchor pin off every time he does a front dig and locks down one side in the rear.

Ahhhh glad I didnt try it! Already replaced the backing plate once this year.

 

[B00mb00m]

BTW- on the ball valve thingy. What I had in mind is you close the ball valve to one side before you push down on the pedal. That way you can modulate the pressure to the side you need to hold.

That is a freaking GREAT idea!!! Cool that I already bought two sets of handles.

 

[someguysjeep]

for a minute i thought it was to feather the E brake on 1 side.
but y'all are talkin about interrupting the line so only only 1 wheel receives pressure from the sys, when engaged?
hmmm.

 

[mrblaine]

for a minute i thought it was to feather the E brake on 1 side.
but y'all are talkin about interrupting the line so only only 1 wheel receives pressure from the sys, when engaged?
hmmm.

Takes 3 valves. 1- front circuit to stop from applying front brakes. The other 2 go on each rear line. Ideally they would be electric solenoid valves, simple easy install that way.

Line locks or roll control valves need to be investigated. They are designed to hold pressure after you push the brake pedal down to stop the rig from moving on the start line for drag racing. I can't get clear in my head if they need to be mounted backwards.

 

[someguysjeep]

Takes 3 valves. 1- front circuit to stop from applying front brakes. The other 2 go on each rear line. Ideally they would be electric solenoid valves, simple easy install that way.

Line locks or roll control valves need to be investigated. They are designed to hold pressure after you push the brake pedal down to stop the rig from moving on the start line for drag racing. I can't get clear in my head if they need to be mounted backwards.

made me look.
IDK, i see 1 mention of piping it backwards in a CJ on a Summit Racing product review, no real details.
is there any difference between locking pressure in a line vs a direct push from the MC. could the MC cause a blow back effect a trapped pressure wouldn't, does that even make sense?
then i see crap on Holleys info that says 60s max on the solenoids or they can cook fuses.

 

[mrblaine]

made me look.
IDK, i see 1 mention of piping it backwards in a CJ on a Summit Racing product review, no real details.
is there any difference between locking pressure in a line vs a direct push from the MC. could the MC cause a blow back effect a trapped pressure wouldn't, does that even make sense?
then i see crap on Holleys info that says 60s max on the solenoids or they can cook fuses.

There are continuous duty versions. The reason I think they may have to be mounted backwards is I saw mention of some of them having a check valve that lets you apply more pressure after they are applied.

 

[B00mb00m]

Takes 3 valves. 1- front circuit to stop from applying front brakes. The other 2 go on each rear line. Ideally they would be electric solenoid valves, simple easy install that way.

Line locks or roll control valves need to be investigated. They are designed to hold pressure after you push the brake pedal down to stop the rig from moving on the start line for drag racing. I can't get clear in my head if they need to be mounted backwards.

Ahhhh yes that's why no one does it, you'd have to shutoff the front brakes and the one rear you don't want to use.

 

[mrblaine]

Ahhhh yes that's why no one does it, you'd have to shutoff the front brakes and the one rear you don't want to use.

I've never been where that would be an issue.

 

[never monday]

Ahhhh yes that's why no one does it, you'd have to shutoff the front brakes and the one rear you don't want to use.

This makes no sense to me.
Unlock the rear diff, lock the pivot tire with the brake and dig around....
The open rear will help push. At least thats how it works in our soft goo around here.

 

[B00mb00m]

This makes no sense to me.
Unlock the rear diff, lock the pivot tire with the brake and dig around....
The open rear will help push. At least thats how it works in our soft goo around here.

Also true, the other wheel spinning on open diff can help but I thought most people did the front dig in fwd only? I'm not experienced in this.... Just installing atlas now.

 

[B00mb00m]

Talking to Blaine he made some good points about push / pull. By setting up the levers in push config the seat back is in direct opposition so it's easy to push against vs a pull handle where you have to engage your abs to curl the lever against. You know how we jeepers hate excercise.

All the the two lever cutting brakes are set up where you must push the lever into the MC. So to make a push setup in the jeep I would have to put the master cylinders in front. Problem being I don't like how that looks and I want to keep my E-brake handle. Heres a pic I stole from pirate:

I want to put the master cylinders in the console. This will keep them hidden and also make the brake line routing much cleaner as I can punch them up from the bottom and not have to get them in front of the shifter. Heres my plan and I'm open to advice. Create a high pivot for the handle and extend the lever down to re mount below the pivot. Two advantages one, I can clock the handle at whatever angle I want to clear the console and be in a comfortable position and second I get a bit more leverage.

 

[toximus]

Sounds like you're already past the idea, but I would want to use them on the fly and not have to stop, lock up all brakes, and then release to line lock just one caliper. Seems that'd be very slow.

 

[B00mb00m]

Sounds like you're already past the idea, but I would want to use them on the fly and not have to stop, lock up all brakes, and then release to line lock just one caliper. Seems that'd be very slow.

That's part of why I went handles also, totally on the fly. Could grab them going 80 if I wanted to lol.