TJ won’t start

Rosco1216

Member
Original poster
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
88
Location
Oklahoma
Decided to drive my Jeep to work today, 30 minute commute. Have never had any issues starting and it’s a new battery but out of nowhere, when I tried to start it after my lunch to head back to the office it wouldn’t start. It started fine this morning and started fine 45 minutes prior when leaving to go to lunch. Seemingly plenty of batter power but just a rapid ignition click but zero attempt to turn over. I walked back to the office and I’m awaiting AAA. Even trying to research what I can do to get it started and make it home this afternoon if AAA can’t get it started.
 
That your starter motor is only clicking could be nothing more than your battery connections are loose or corroded/dirty inside next to the battery post. Or perhaps that new battery is bad, is it an Optima? Optima battery life is not good any more. The problem is definitely not caused by the fuel pump, that wouldn't cause the starter to just click.

Try moving the battery connectors around on the battery posts with your hands (or loosen/move around/re-tighten if you have pliers or a wrench with you) then trying to start it again while you're waiting for the AAA rescue vehicle.
 
That your starter motor is only clicking could be nothing more than your battery connections are loose or corroded/dirty inside next to the battery post. Or perhaps that new battery is bad, is it an Optima? Optima battery life is not good any more. The problem is definitely not caused by the fuel pump, that wouldn't cause the starter to just click.

Try moving the battery connectors around on the battery posts with your hands (or loosen/move around/re-tighten if you have pliers or a wrench with you) then trying to start it again while you're waiting for the AAA rescue vehicle.
It’s not an optima. It’s an o’reillys super start extreme. Just 2 months old.
 
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Either way it sound like the starter is not getting the required amps to turn the motor. That is either battery, cables and connections or starter solenoid. This is where a multi meter is worth its weight in gold, I know your at work and may not have one. Harbor freight has sales on the little cheapy analog ones for only a few bucks. Worth it to thrown in the tool bag. Let us know if AAA gets you going.
 
That clicking is a telling sign it's power related. There's not enough power to activate the starter on the flywheel. It might not mean your new battery is bad, it could be that your alternator is bad and can't charge the battery. However just because the battery is new, it could be a lemon. There could also be a different battery drain. But ultimately, toss a multimeter on the battery and see. Then get it charged and test your alternator.
 
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I missed the part about clicking.... now, I really lean towards dirty battery connectors.

Same thing happened to me few years back, when i last replaced my battery.

Dirty terminals can be deceiving... they may look clean, but still have a bad connection.
 
Glad it worked out...On a side note what color is your TJ? it is really nice
Thanks! It is bright jade satin metallic. Not my preferred color if I were to choose but I got a great deal on it from a neighbor so I accepted it. Plus it’s both of my girls’ favorite color so they won’t let me change it.
 
Does anyone have some suggestions on good battery terminals can handle multiple inputs safely and securely?
 
Does anyone have some suggestions on good battery terminals can handle multiple inputs safely and securely?
I replaced my factory wiring with custombatterycables.com and the military style terminals. It was all due for a refresh, so the ~$180 it was worth it to me.

My engine wiring is on the bolt-head side, all the optional stuff is on the nut side - at least until I get around to my aux fuse block. If you need to add more stuff, you can just get a longer bolt.
 
I replaced my factory wiring with custombatterycables.com and the military style terminals. It was all due for a refresh, so the ~$180 it was worth it to me.

My engine wiring is on the bolt-head side, all the optional stuff is on the nut side - at least until I get around to my aux fuse block. If you need to add more stuff, you can just get a longer bolt.
Happen to have a photo of your setup?