To drill or not to drill - TJ Kargo Master Roof Rack

[Mr. Bowljangles]

I recently got a great deal on this Kargo Master roof rack for $100.00
Its discontinued but I was able to find that the carrying capacity is 500lbs, however it'd requires you to drill two 5/16's holes in the tub where the mounting plate are (by the tail lights). Currently the plates are connected to small 10mm bolts that are used to mount the tail light, three on each side.

I would like some feedback on the necessity of drilling holes when the most I would carry is a canoe in the 70-100lbs range and I don't plan to have the rack on year round.

I've attached photos of the mounting plate. Please take a look at the side view, you can see the mounting plate is not fully against the tub; you can see a small opening. When I apply pressure there is a little bit of play that allows me to push in the plate closer to the tub.

Would drilling a hole on an LJ be a big deal when it comes to affecting the value? its super clean and unmolested. I plan to have it for the long run but I'm still mindful about maintaining its re sale value if I ever needed to. More importantly do I risk damaging the tub by not securing it with the extra bolts.

 

[KingCarGuyZ]

The fact that the rack isint permanent is a huge factor, in the end I would say go ahead and drill, you don’t want to skimp out on bracing, wind forces at 70mph on a brick can be suprizingly odd, plus it looks like you could disconnect at the bracket to take the rack off, thus not leaving drilled holes exposed to the elements. However if you ever decide to totally get rid of the rack there will be a unsightly holes in your body, this can be fixed but it’s a pain.
I had this delima W/ my CB mount wound up drilling just on the basis that if I ever take the CB out, leaving the bracket there isint that big a deal.

 

[BShephard]

Nice rack, you got a good deal on that! I have one on my LJ also.

That bolt on the top is important, without it the vibration alone will eventually woller and strip out the threads for the taillamp bolts.

If you don't want to drill that hole I think you could get away with through bolting the three taillamp bolts. Just use large fender washers on the back side.

 

[Vinman]

People have been drilling and bolting things to Jeeps for over 7 decades, get over it and get the drill out.

 

[Mr. Bowljangles]

The fact that the rack isint permanent is a huge factor, in the end I would say go ahead and drill, you don’t want to skimp out on bracing, wind forces at 70mph on a brick can be suprizingly odd, plus it looks like you could disconnect at the bracket to take the rack off, thus not leaving drilled holes exposed to the elements. However if you ever decide to totally get rid of the rack there will be a unsightly holes in your body, this can be fixed but it’s a pain.
I had this delima W/ my CB mount wound up drilling just on the basis that if I ever take the CB out, leaving the bracket there isint that big a deal.

Thats a great idea, thank you. I'll definitely leave the mounting plates on after I drill.

 

[Mr. Bowljangles]

Nice rack, you got a good deal on that! I have one on my LJ also.

That bolt on the top is important, without it the vibration alone will eventually woller and strip out the threads for the taillamp bolts.

If you don't want to drill that hole I think you could get away with through bolting the three taillamp bolts. Just use large fender washers on the back side.

Yup! the same week I found some nerf bars for free. Thank you so much for your feedback! I decided to drill it after all.

 

[Mr. Bowljangles]

People have been drilling and bolting things to Jeeps for over 7 decades, get over it and get the drill out.

Thanks for the push brother, the drill is coming out