To those that have installed a Savvy Mid Arm, I salute you!

[Superjay5]

I’m knee deep in installing the mid arm, it’s an amazing kit. Very well thought out and everything fits extremity well! But we all know that!


But why I want to tip my hat to those that have gone down this path, is the cutting of all the frame mounts!!

Axles, easy peasy, at least I could get those on my bench to cut off all the mounts.


Frame side…. Oh man. I’m still having my morning coffee, trying to get the motivation to cut the last two mounts I have, the front uppers are all that remain.

I’m also out boarding and relocating rear spring buckets.

The grinder has become my best friend and my worst enemy!!!!

I have been taking my time surgically removing them and doing my best not to cut into the frame.

I’ll be so happy once this part is over!!!

So for this, I tip my hat and respect anyone that has gone down this road.

 

[mrblaine]

I’m knee deep in installing the mid arm, it’s an amazing kit. Very well thought out and everything fits extremity well! But we all know that!


But why I want to tip my hat to those that have gone down this path, is the cutting of all the frame mounts!!

Axles, easy peasy, at least I could get those on my bench to cut off all the mounts.


Frame side…. Oh man. I’m still having my morning coffee, trying to get the motivation to cut the last two mounts I have, the front uppers are all that remain.

I’m also out boarding and relocating rear spring buckets.

The grinder has become my best friend and my worst enemy!!!!

I have been taking my time surgically removing them and doing my best not to cut into the frame.

I’ll be so happy once this part is over!!!

So for this, I tip my hat and respect anyone that has gone down this road.

Just to make you feel better, I have literally cut 100's of those frame mounts off. I have it down to about 5 minutes per but nothing makes it ever suck any less. And, it is almost as easy to drop the exhaust for the right side than it is to try and work around it.

 

[Superjay5]

Just to make you feel better, I have literally cut 100's of those frame mounts off. I have it down to about 5 minutes per but nothing makes it ever suck any less. And, it is almost as easy to drop the exhaust for the right side than it is to try and work around it.

Yea, it’s not terribly hard. It just sucks!

You have me beat by a long shot on time to cut off a mount! I don’t even want to time myself. I have gotten quicker, but no where near 5 mins!

Mad respect for all the mounts you have removed!!! And thanks for the heads up on the passenger side front.

I guess it’s time to roll out into the garage and make it happen!

The next stage should be much more enjoyable!

 

[mrblaine]

Yea, it’s not terribly hard. It just sucks!

You have me beat by a long shot on time to cut off a mount! I don’t even want to time myself. I have gotten quicker, but no where near 5 mins!

Mad respect for all the mounts you have removed!!! And thanks for the heads up on the passenger side front.

I guess it’s time to roll out into the garage and make it happen!

The next stage should be much more enjoyable!

You'll need to remove the upper on the frame left side. I just cut it where the bend is at the back and leave the flat part on the frame. Reach over the top under the fender and slice it there next to the frame and then the forward bend gets cut at the bend. Easier, not pretty.

Pro-tip- if you plasma and cut too deep, decide to repair the cut with weld and grind smooth, you have to take the edge of a hard grinding disc and completely grind out the cut to get rid of the dross. It will make every weld you do be completely full of porosity and look like crap.

 

[Superjay5]

You'll need to remove the upper on the frame left side. I just cut it where the bend is at the back and leave the flat part on the frame. Reach over the top under the fender and slice it there next to the frame and then the forward bend gets cut at the bend. Easier, not pretty.

Pro-tip- if you plasma and cut too deep, decide to repair the cut with weld and grind smooth, you have to take the edge of a hard grinding disc and completely grind out the cut to get rid of the dross. It will make every weld you do be completely full of porosity and look like crap.

Good to know. I was debating if all those upper mounts needed to be removed. If I understand, you leave the flag nut mount part in place. I was thinking the same as it doesn’t take up much space. As long as my OCD will allow it.

There is something sexy about the frame with all those factory mounts gone!

No plasma… just a grinder…. That fucking grinder!

I do have a couple small nicks in the frame I will fix with weld

 

[mrblaine]

Good to know. I was debating if all those upper mounts needed to be removed. If I understand, you leave the flag nut mount part in place. I was thinking the same as it doesn’t take up much space. As long as my OCD will allow it.

There is something sexy about the frame with all those factory mounts gone!

No plasma… just a grinder…. That fucking grinder!

I do have a couple small nicks in the frame I will fix with weld, good to know to grind them out.

You don't have to grind out the cuts done with the cut off wheel. It does help to turn the welder down a smidge so you don't undercut the edges and have to fix those. That fucking grinder is why I have a Dynabrade air right angle die grinder and Death wheels. 500 bucks to make my life somewhat less miserable is fully worth it. Cutting those welds is also how you learn what cut off discs are actually worth buying.

If you want to slick out the frame, a few things help. Don't chase the cuts. Grind or sand flat to the frame and if the cut doesn't disappear, don't chase it deeper, weld it and go flat again. A hard rubber backing disc for some 3M Cubitron sanding discs in 40 grit will make it look better than you can imagine.

 

[Superjay5]

You don't have to grind out the cuts done with the cut off wheel. It does help to turn the welder down a smidge so you don't undercut the edges and have to fix those. That fucking grinder is why I have a Dynabrade air right angle die grinder and Death wheels. 500 bucks to make my life somewhat less miserable is fully worth it. Cutting those welds is also how you learn what cut off discs are actually worth buying.

If you want to slick out the frame, a few things help. Don't chase the cuts. Grind or sand flat to the frame and if the cut doesn't disappear, don't chase it deeper, weld it and go flat again. A hard rubber backing disc for some 3M Cubitron sanding discs in 40 grit will make it look better than you can imagine.

Thanks for the additional info. If I was doing more than one of these I would be rethinking my tool choice!

I’ll get some of those 3M Cubitron discs. I am also doing a savvy gas skid and tummy tuck, so right now my frame is pretty opened up and exposed. Figure it’s a good time to clean up any areas on the frame and repaint.

And a big thanks Blaine. I have been lurking for a long time on this site gather info from you. Money and time finally aligned, so I’m diving all in!

You are truly a master at your craft, my goal is to just copy you the best I can on this build!

 

[jjvw]

... I am also doing a savvy gas skid and tummy tuck, so right now my frame is pretty opened up and exposed. ...

A Blaine tip to pass along. If you are doing the Savvy Under Armor, consider adding speed nuts to the crossmember. It makes removing the skid much easier after the rear is buried by the midarm brackets and difficult to disassemble.

 

[1904-06LJR]

Thanks for the additional info. If I was doing more than one of these I would be rethinking my tool choice!

I’ll get some of those 3M Cubitron discs. I am also doing a savvy gas skid and tummy tuck, so right now my frame is pretty opened up and exposed. Figure it’s a good time to clean up any areas on the frame and repaint.

And a big thanks Blaine. I have been lurking for a long time on this site gather info from you. Money and time finally aligned, so I’m diving all in!

You are truly a master at your craft, my goal is to just copy you the best I can on this build!

(wink)

 

[psrivats]

A Blaine tip to pass along. If you are doing the Savvy Under Armor, consider adding speed nuts to the crossmember. It makes removing the skid much easier after the rear is buried by the midarm brackets and difficult to disassemble.
View attachment 403204

I did not even know that a fastener like that existed. Thanks for sharing that.

 

[Apparition]

I did not even know that a fastener like that existed. Thanks for sharing that.

I believe these are the ones.

25 5/16" - 18 Extruded U Nuts Compatible with GM 1494258 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CVQGG/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[jjvw]

I believe these are the ones.

25 5/16" - 18 Extruded U Nuts Compatible with GM 1494258 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CVQGG/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I found mine at the hardware store. The extruded full thread ones are the ones to get. Not the ones with the little fin.

 

[mrblaine]

I did not even know that a fastener like that existed. Thanks for sharing that.

They are in several places on the TJ.
Radiator to core support/grill.
Battery tray to fender support.
Console lid to console
Door pull handle to door pull brace under the door panel
Behind the dash center stack in a couple of places
Exhaust cats to cast manifold

The ones in the door are a bit tricky to find since they are an extruded U-nut but with sheet metal screw threads.

 

[Superjay5]

A Blaine tip to pass along. If you are doing the Savvy Under Armor, consider adding speed nuts to the crossmember. It makes removing the skid much easier after the rear is buried by the midarm brackets and difficult to disassemble.
View attachment 403204

Unfortunately I have not been able to get a Savvy UA. In my moment of weakness I pulled the trigger on a aluminum UCf skid during a Black Friday sale.

It would work, will need some modifications, but I really want a separate crossmember and skid.

The savvy is on back order…. Debating if I should roll the dice on it and order. I would like the jeep to be back on the road by May….. hmmmm

 

[Superjay5]

(wink)

 

[mrblaine]

View attachment 403289

View attachment 403290

View attachment 403291

View attachment 403296

You see the raised weld that didn't cut flat? That is from using a crappy flap disc that is just rounding stuff over instead of cutting it flat.

If you use the backing pad and a couple different grits fiber disc, you can lay it down flat and flush and then fill the low spots to make it look like nothing was ever cut off.

This is rock rails I extended for the TJ-6. Idjit welder did the aluminum after I told him not to and you can see why.

 

[Superjay5]

You see the raised weld that didn't cut flat? That is from using a crappy flap disc that is just rounding stuff over instead of cutting it flat.

View attachment 403301
If you use the backing pad and a couple different grits fiber disc, you can lay it down flat and flush and then fill the low spots to make it look like nothing was ever cut off.

This is rock rails I extended for the TJ-6. Idjit welder did the aluminum after I told him not to and you can see why.

View attachment 403305

View attachment 403306

I did do those with a flap disc last weekend. Luckly I didn’t clean the other mount areas up as much, as you noticed I felt like I was digging in to much. I will grab the disc you recommend and carry on.

All mounts are off! Glad to have that out of the way.

 

[mrblaine]

I did do those with a flap disc last weekend. Luckly I didn’t clean the other mount areas up as much as you noticed I felt like I was digging in to much. I will grab the disc you recommend and carry on.

All mounts are off! Glad to have that out of the way.

That flap disc is good for blending in a sharp edge. Also good for getting into the low spots caused by deformation when they bend the frame. Don't toss them.

 

[Superjay5]

Well that makes total sense. I noticed the deformation when I started sanding, becomes way more apparent when you start taking paint off.

I noticed it, but didn’t connect the dots what caused it, duh!

One last pic, this was by far the worst of the factory welds, looks like a crappy chalking job!

 

[mrblaine]

Well that makes total sense. I noticed the deformation when I started sanding, becomes way more apparent when you start taking paint off.

I noticed it, but didn’t connect the dots what caused it, duh!

One last pic, this was by far the worst of the factory welds, looks like a crappy chalking job!

View attachment 403325

The factory welds are great lesson in how much weld it takes to do a job. In all the time on the forums I've been reading posts about failures, not once has there been a single reported failure of the welds holding on the control arm mounts, rear track bar mount, or the spring perches. (scant few exceptions being the rear uppers when used with bad joints)

There are some weldment failures like the front frame side trackbar mount, but the welds don't fail.

The main reason our welds don't fail is because we put so much material in a weld bead, it practically can't.