Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

To tow or not to tow?

Eco-boost or 5.0l? I miss my eco-boost for towing….

5.0.

I was driving along I70 late last year without any sort of load and I was eager to get home. I was cruising about 75 mph even up the hills and this ecoboost (same 12th gen) blew past me pulling a loaded down trailer and the bed of his truck filled with whatever it was he was hauling. I had a hard time keeping up with him. The ecoboosts are really something when it comes to towing. They're no joke.
 
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5.0.

I was driving along I70 late last year without any sort of load and I was eager to get home. I was cruising about 75 mph even up the hills and this ecoboost (same 12th gen) blew past me pulling a loaded down trailer and the bed of his truck filled with whatever it was he was hauling. I had a hard time keeping up with him. The ecoboosts are really something when it comes to towing. They're no joke.

My ecoboost was great until I was stranded on the roadside with a wrecker on the way and a buddy coming to get the uhaul trailer I was pulling. New ecoboost needed.

Then when it overheated repeatedly pulling the Jeep up I70.

Or when the transmission failed pulling out of the campground in Moab to go home.

I won’t buy another.
 
Your Jeep should not be towed with 2 wheels on the ground. Check the manual. May be ok if you pull the driveshaft.

When I bought my LJ I towed just over 800 miles home on a UHaul trailer with my 2015 GMC Sierra 1500. The truck handled it well and I got 10-12 mpg.

When in a hotel parking lot I was more concerned with someone rolling the Jeep off the trailer than taking the entire trailer. I did have a lock on the trailer and hitch. I backed the trailer up to large electric service box so that could not happen.

UHaul trailers are equipped with front ratchet straps that are designed for about 32 inch tires (I fit 33's once but barely). Anything bigger and you will need your own tie downs. They probably won't even rent to you if you tell them the Jeep has bigger than 31/32 inch tires. They definitely asked both times I rented a trailer. The LJ had 35's and I told them it had stock tires so they would rent to me.

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I’ve seen/read that too, but also heard it’s ok If set up a specific way. Can’t recall off the top of my head what that way is though.
 
I’ve seen/read that too, but also heard it’s ok If set up a specific way. Can’t recall off the top of my head what that way is though.

The only thing that I can imagine being an issue is that you'd be spinning the t case output shaft inside the drive sprocket, at speed, for a long period of time. That sprocket usually spins near the same speed as the shaft because it's driven by the front driveshaft, so it doesn't have a bearing.

In theory it shouldn't be any different than driving with manual hubs but that wasn't ever a factory option with the 231. An axle disconnect was on the early 231s, but it also had some differences in the case that I'm not fully aware of. I do know it didn't have a true neutral (putting in neutral disconnected output from input but front and rear outputs were still engaged to one another).

The key thing about those engineers is they disallow everything unless they've spent a million dollars making sure it's ok. Just because they forbid something doesn't mean it'll kill your jeep, it just means they're not certain it won't.

Just to be safe, I'd probably disconnect the rear driveshaft. What would really be slick is a full float rear axle with locking hubs that you could just unlock all four wheels and the drivetrain not even know it wasn't parked.
 
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My ecoboost was great until I was stranded on the roadside with a wrecker on the way and a buddy coming to get the uhaul trailer I was pulling. New ecoboost needed.

Then when it overheated repeatedly pulling the Jeep up I70.

Or when the transmission failed pulling out of the campground in Moab to go home.

I won’t buy another.

5.0.

I was driving along I70 late last year without any sort of load and I was eager to get home. I was cruising about 75 mph even up the hills and this ecoboost (same 12th gen) blew past me pulling a loaded down trailer and the bed of his truck filled with whatever it was he was hauling. I had a hard time keeping up with him. The ecoboosts are really something when it comes to towing. They're no joke.

I really liked the engine. The rest of the truck, including the transmission, is what I had an issue with. Mine was a 14, and I blew the rear end up at 62,000 miles, had an issue with the transmission and the valve body, fit and finish issues, and I just didn’t trust that it would last. I sold it with 82,000’ish miles.
 
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please take this in the context of someone who has never towed long distance anything bigger than about a 5x10 enclosed u-haul trailer, and anything larger (like car on a car hauler, boats, etc) was very short distances. I have the general understanding of major stuff like making sure the load is biased in front of the trailers axles, not crossing the straps, what to do if it starts swaying, etc.

I have a wheeling trip to SW Colorado in August, which is about 800 miles each way just to get there, and as we all know, a Jeep on 35s with a soft top and soft upper doors can be exhausting over that sort of distance. I know it's doable, and I've done it before, but I have a pickup that's a LOT more comfortable.

U-Haul's website indicates that the Jeep plus a car trailer is within their parameters to rent to me to tow behind my Silverado 1500. Flat towing might also be an option, though I've never done that and don't know anything about activating brakes on the Jeep, while I would guess the Uhaul probably has surge brakes.

My reservations:
Truck is a Chevy 5.3 that runs good and has good tires but is 23 years old with 150k miles on it
Should I expect any better (or worse) than the 12.5mpg I'm likely to get with the LJ?
Is this stupid? (just because I can, does that mean I should?)
what measures are suggested to secure the trailer to the truck while I sleep in a hotel so somebody doesn't drive away with my LJ served up on a trailer? Not my trailer so it can't require permanent modification. Safer to just camp in the truck?

Alright, call me crazy here, but....don't you have a set of hard doors? And do you still have the hard top? If so, why not install those, carry the soft top and half doors inside, and swap out in Pueblo and leave the hard top and doors safely stored there. Of course if this isn't a solo trip, and you're bringing the family, disregard.
 
Alright, call me crazy here, but....don't you have a set of hard doors? And do you still have the hard top? If so, why not install those, carry the soft top and half doors inside, and swap out in Pueblo and leave the hard top and doors safely stored there. Of course if this isn't a solo trip, and you're bringing the family, disregard.

It's a solo trip. I do have hard doors but I sold the hard top in 2021. I won't call you crazy...I hadn't really thought of that; I tend to forget I even have them since I haven't used them in a year. I'm not sure hard doors but still having the soft top would make a big enough difference to justify the effort or not but it's worth considering.
 
I really liked the engine. The rest of the truck, including the transmission, is what I had an issue with. Mine was a 14, and I blew the rear end up at 62,000 miles, had an issue with the transmission and the valve body, fit and finish issues, and I just didn’t trust that it would last. I sold it with 82,000’ish miles.

I really liked mine too. Super quick, tons of torque.

But then in a couple of seconds while pulling a trailer down interstate it became a lump of garbage.
 
It's a solo trip. I do have hard doors but I sold the hard top in 2021. I won't call you crazy...I hadn't really thought of that; I tend to forget I even have them since I haven't used them in a year. I'm not sure hard doors but still having the soft top would make a big enough difference to justify the effort or not but it's worth considering.

It’s probably worth making a test run on the highways near home if you have a spare half day to try it before August.
 
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We’ve made several 6 hourish trips to the Outer Banks in ours with soft top and full doors. It’s not bad, but after getting half doors and driving some 2-3 hour trips, I know I wouldn’t lIke half doors/soft uppers as much on a 6 hour trip.
 
I really liked the engine. The rest of the truck, including the transmission, is what I had an issue with. Mine was a 14, and I blew the rear end up at 62,000 miles, had an issue with the transmission and the valve body, fit and finish issues, and I just didn’t trust that it would last. I sold it with 82,000’ish miles.

What issues with the transmission did you have? I know the lead frames were problematic. Mine was actually replaced in the early days (13 or 14 or I think), so (knocking on wood) I should not have that issue. In the 60k miles Ive put on it, the transmission has shifted smoothly and have never heard a clunk. Just the brief high temps (238°) when my transmission cooler wasn't receiving air and fluid was low.

The finish issues, well I agree with that. I have several spots where the paint has/is flaking away. Roof, front fender, rear inner fenders and part of the hood.
 
My ecoboost was great until I was stranded on the roadside with a wrecker on the way and a buddy coming to get the uhaul trailer I was pulling. New ecoboost needed.

What failed?

I have read of some scary things on intercoolers and turbos on the ecoboosts. I almost bought a 13 ecoboost before my 5.0, but ended up passing on it cause the price was way to high and they wouldnt budge. It still needed quite a bit of work. I remember the sunroof didnt work, the window didnt roll down, and there was one other small thing that didnt work that I cant remember what it was.

My mom has a 13 or 14, hers has been fairly trouble free other than the timing chain at 140k
 
What failed?

I have read of some scary things on intercoolers and turbos on the ecoboosts. I almost bought a 13 ecoboost before my 5.0, but ended up passing on it cause the price was way to high and they wouldnt budge. It still needed quite a bit of work. I remember the sunroof didnt work, the window didnt roll down, and there was one other small thing that didnt work that I cant remember what it was.

My mom has a 13 or 14, hers has been fairly trouble free other than the timing chain at 140k

They didn't want the shop to open it up. It lost all oil pressure was all I know.
 
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Be easy on that 4l60e if you tow.they aren't the most robust transmissions

do you have 4l60e expertise?

I got some hard shifting and a CEL with P1870 code ONE TIME back in 2020-2021 that I hadn't seen again, but go figure I got the hard shifts a couple days after posting this thread and though the CEL isn't on, the P1870 is there as a "pending" code. It sounds like there's a really common issue with the TCC valve bore and there are some valve body parts kits that claim to correct it but i honestly feel a little overwhelmed at the though of what I need to get done on the Jeep PLUS doing that to the truck before my trip.
 
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I used to tow with a 99 silverado for years, 5.3 and 4l60e all the time. That truck was on its second engine and transmission with over 500k on the chassis. My pops bought it new. It towed fine. The 4 speed transmission is the the only limiting factor really. It would rev to the moon in 2nd on a long grade towing up to Rausch in PA from VA. You had to plan ahead on long grades to either plan to go up very slow or gains peed and get a running start, then go slow about half way up. If you have bigger tires, getting stock sized ones will help.

My buddy tows his tj with a 98 Tahoe with a 350 and it does fine too. Stays in the right lane doing about 65. Averages about 10mpg doing so.


The uhaul trailers can vary in quality. That was all I used for years. I once was given an old one that should have been retired. It swayed pretty bad and was worn slam out. The newer ones no issues. Surge brakes have a bit of a delay and learning curve but work. Just plan stops accordingly.

I tow with an 11 tundra now and the 6 speed transmission is a welcomed upgrade. The mpg isn't awesome even empty but it tows my lj easy.
 
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What issues with the transmission did you have? I know the lead frames were problematic. Mine was actually replaced in the early days (13 or 14 or I think), so (knocking on wood) I should not have that issue. In the 60k miles Ive put on it, the transmission has shifted smoothly and have never heard a clunk. Just the brief high temps (238°) when my transmission cooler wasn't receiving air and fluid was low.

The finish issues, well I agree with that. I have several spots where the paint has/is flaking away. Roof, front fender, rear inner fenders and part of the hood.

Mine was something in the valve body (had the 6 speed) and you could hear is clicking or buzzing when you go from park to reverse, or reverse to park. It didn't happen all the time, and I actually had it in a couple three times for the same issue that they couldn't get to repeat. It finally started doing it all the time and that is when they fixed it. There is a TSB for it (don't remember the number) and I guess it plagued a bunch of Mustangs too.

The rear end, I told them with 45000 miles or so that I thought the pinion bearing was going or loose. They "didn't hear" it...Could have saved themselves 5K if they had fixed it instead of ignoring it. I decided to change the gear oil at 62,000 miles and found the telltale glitter. Took it back and it took a week for Ford to step up to the plate...since I was out of warranty. Since I had made a previous claim, They did cover it, and they had to replace EVERYTHING in that axle except the housing.
 
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do you have 4l60e expertise?

I got some hard shifting and a CEL with P1870 code ONE TIME back in 2020-2021 that I hadn't seen again, but go figure I got the hard shifts a couple days after posting this thread and though the CEL isn't on, the P1870 is there as a "pending" code. It sounds like there's a really common issue with the TCC valve bore and there are some valve body parts kits that claim to correct it but i honestly feel a little overwhelmed at the though of what I need to get done on the Jeep PLUS doing that to the truck before my trip.

No,sorry. Just unhappy friends and family who killed them with campers and trailers.
 
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I've flat towed my TJ twice (zero issues) to Moab behind a 2004 Dodge 2500 (5.9 Cummins) and use a RVI brake system on the floorboard of the TJ. I was getting 11.5 round trip (1566 miles round trip).

Why not price out a brake assist system (or borrow one) vice using a trailer. When we stop for the evening I take the RVI out and lock it up in the truck and take the key out of the ignition and just leave the jeep attached truck.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator