Totaled!

do you have a collision shop around you that works on frames and axles? you could take it to them and see what they say. I got a buddy that use to work for a collision shop that had a frame machine, if its not to bad, they could probably straighten it out?
 
Thedogsbollocks said:
2006 Rubi 36 k miles rear ended. Insurance now saying total loss as cannot source oem or aftermarket fuel tank. ( other damage is cross member of rear frame bent , luckily can be replaced with aftermarket x member , rear door , wheel carrier, bumper etc. All estimated at about 5k damage)

I know a second hand tank is an option however…

so their 1st offer was around 15.5 k but they had 106 k when it’s only 36k. Needless to say I pointed this out and sent them 50 examples of 2006 Tjs all over 20k in fact non Rubicon average was nearer 25k ! The average of the Rubicon models came in at 26k. Appreciate these are what they are being offered at but still a good sizable sample of comp prices to make them think.

so above I’m really just setting scene. My question is why oh why cannot source a NEW fuel tank anywhere? I have literally searched ever aftermarket
manufacturer and of course oem and no one can supply a single one and all say not sure if they will be getting restocked?

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I feel for you. I'm going through the process right now.

Hit black ice in Wyoming, severed the giant "Chain up Area" sign, and based on two photos from the crash scene, the ins company wants to total it.
After phone battles and adjusters that didn't show, plus a list of TJ sales prices in the Denver area, I'm scheduled for the body shop in two weeks.

I could have had the damn thing fixed myself by now, so if it does turn out to be totaled, I'm keeping it.

Don't give in to them as they try and wear you down, which they will. Good luck to you, and I hope you get to keep your Jeep, it's a beauty.

Ray
 
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Thedogsbollocks said:
2006 Rubi 36 k miles rear ended. Insurance now saying total loss as cannot source oem or aftermarket fuel tank. ( other damage is cross member of rear frame bent , luckily can be replaced with aftermarket x member , rear door , wheel carrier, bumper etc. All estimated at about 5k damage)

I know a second hand tank is an option however…

so their 1st offer was around 15.5 k but they had 106 k when it’s only 36k. Needless to say I pointed this out and sent them 50 examples of 2006 Tjs all over 20k in fact non Rubicon average was nearer 25k ! The average of the Rubicon models came in at 26k. Appreciate these are what they are being offered at but still a good sizable sample of comp prices to make them think.

so above I’m really just setting scene. My question is why oh why cannot source a NEW fuel tank anywhere? I have literally searched ever aftermarket
manufacturer and of course oem and no one can supply a single one and all say not sure if they will be getting restocked?

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Have you looked at the Genright tanks
https://genright.com/products/jeep-tj-lj-crawler-comp23-gas-tank-aluminum-skid-plate-23-gal.html
 
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Artsifrtsi said:
However, frames are not. He says the rear x-member is bent, and I’d bet his frame is tweaked at least to the rear lower control mounts
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Tell me about it. Spent the last 4 months searching high and low for a reasonable good frame after a collision. Finally decided to part it out. Sigh.
 
Thedogsbollocks said:
Ots

bowed in one side…pushed in. Not broken or creased. Like it needs something inflatable inside to push it back into shape lol…
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The latest is that I’m waiting for the final amount for the total payout and piecing together the estimate for me to repair if / when I buy back.
Question.
Putting cost to one side , What brand would you recommend for eg. A replacement tailgate.?
Seems a huge variation in price. I’m not concerned about cost but more quality. Range from below 200 to about for 400.
Option 1. Source aftermarket brand (What about Ada Omix I think it’s called , they read well?) - what brands do you recommend?

Option 2. Buy OEM salvage part and prep and paint?

Thanks…I’ll you you know what the settlement was as soon as I know as a lot of you have asked…
 
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Thedogsbollocks said:
The latest is that I’m waiting for the final amount for the total payout and piecing together the estimate for me to repair if / when I buy back.
Question.
Putting cost to one side , What brand would you recommend for eg. A replacement tailgate.?
Seems a huge variation in price. I’m not concerned about cost but more quality. Range from below 200 to about for 400.
Option 1. Source aftermarket brand (What about Ada Omix I think it’s called , they read well?) - what brands do you recommend?

Option 2. Buy OEM salvage part and prep and paint?

Thanks…I’ll you you know what the settlement was as soon as I know as a lot of you have asked…
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You will likely get better quality at a lower cost if you can find a decent tailgate from a junk yard. The aftermarket usually uses lower quality / thinner material than the original stuff. Check out Davey's.
 
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J Harding said:
Do not let those a-holes total it. You will end up with a salvage title in the end. Unless they give you $25K for it....
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This. Don’t lose your ass because they want to be cheap. You pay them handsomely every month for them to make this situation right.
 
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Thedogsbollocks said:
They are totaling it and I’m negotiating price now.
You guys think frame will come back to normal ( obviously new x member will be installed? )
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I don't understand. Help me out here. I'm currently going through this with insurance on my rock crawler.

Why total a vehicle that needs $6K+- in repairs if it's worth $25K? The repair cost doesn't meet the totaled vehicle threshold.

I'm guessing the insurance company towed it to a place of their choosing? I'm also guessing they may push back on a request from you to have a shop that you pick take a second look...
 
Fughuert said:
Now if they tried to pull that shit on my ljr I’d threaten or get lawyers involved, especially after doing all this outboarding work.
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Know that if you choose this route, they will likely cut communication with you until you actually get an attorney. I wouldn't mention it until you do have an an attorney.
 
Thedogsbollocks said:
Option 2. Buy OEM salvage part and prep and paint?
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You can still find OEM parts at some of the online MOPAR parts warehouses. hard, but can find some NOS if you dig hard enough.

Do not buy any aftermarket body parts, not the same level of quality. A good body shop can have a salvage tailgate from the Southeast, Texas, or SoCal sanded, straight, true and painted and will be just as good as it was.
 
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Make them cut you a $25k check. Then tell them you'll buy it back with salvage title for $10k.
 
R3ID05TJ said:
Make them cut you a $25k check. Then tell them you'll buy it back with salvage title for $10k.
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Ok…footnote the whole issue as it’s frustrating when the final resolution is not posted.
So as R3ID05Tj said above that’s what happened except I bought it back for 4k. So good result under the circumstances. Going in to have rear x member replaced and frame sorted on Monday. Fingers crossed and thanks for the input all!
 
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Fouledplugs said:
I don't understand. Help me out here. I'm currently going through this with insurance on my rock crawler.

Why total a vehicle that needs $6K+- in repairs if it's worth $25K? The repair cost doesn't meet the totaled vehicle threshold.

I'm guessing the insurance company towed it to a place of their choosing? I'm also guessing they may push back on a request from you to have a shop that you pick take a second look...
Click to expand...
In my case on the basis that OEM parts are not available and that's why.
 
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