Transfer case linkage issue
- Thread starter EBW
- Start date
This is what is screwing up on my Rubi, the rear locker engaged by itself in 2WD last night.
It’s possible. @EBW, perform the instrument cluster self check. While it’s going through all the tests, make note of the last digits of the VIN that are displayed. Just to rule out a gauge cluster swap.
That is seriously pretty scary if that happened going down the road at 60 miles an hour it would be dramatic.
I can't help but wonder if the PCM could be a part of this... Something is in that signal circuit hitting that Locker pump ... I haven't looked at the schematics and I am no electrical Whiz and certainly No Electronic whiz... From watching the thread I think everybody is in the right ballpark on getting it sorted out.
I absolutely hate freaky electrical stuff... I don't know if it's the PCM or the tendency of Jeep owners to subject their vehicle to tons of water so I'm certainly not pointing any fingers.
I can't help but wonder if the PCM could be a part of this... Something is in that signal circuit hitting that Locker pump ... I haven't looked at the schematics and I am no electrical Whiz and certainly No Electronic whiz... From watching the thread I think everybody is in the right ballpark on getting it sorted out.
I absolutely hate freaky electrical stuff... I don't know if it's the PCM or the tendency of Jeep owners to subject their vehicle to tons of water so I'm certainly not pointing any fingers.
I'm not familiar with that, is there a Youtube video or thread here that describes how to accomplish this ?
I’m not sure, but the little I’ve read there is programming that has to be done when new because the instrument cluster acts as the body control module also.
That actually makes sense due to the research I've done in regards to V8 swaps. I've heard that mentioned that the factory gauge cluster acts as a body control module.
I actually just found that out today when I was researching the gauge cluster/transfer case interface.
That's good info. I never would have even thought of this.
I thought you could just swap a gauge cluster straight in, but it sounds like you might have to program it after you plug the new one in.
Not sure on that either. Some aspects are self-learning from what I read in the FSM.
I don't know the details on the automatics but basically when you lift one and you have a stock linkage you're usually on the verge of not being able to get the vehicle into four wheel drive low... And by that I mean right on the verge.. because the lift has cocked the linkage and you're not getting the amount of throw that you need in order to engage the Rotator on the transfer case.
This is why it worked for a while but it only took a little bit of movement of the body or change in the way the suspension settled to cause you to lose what little throw you had... When the actuator goes into 4-wheel low it should go completely and solidly.
There is a rod with a 13 mm nut on the manual Jeeps on there transfer case linkage and it should be the same on the automatic... You want to loosen that nut and physically turn the actuator on the transfer case to get the Jeep into 4-wheel low and then tighten the nut all this needs to be done while the handle is in the very highest position.
This should give you four wheel low and it will work but if you will change to a Savvy shift cable you will never have any issues again pretty much.
This is why it worked for a while but it only took a little bit of movement of the body or change in the way the suspension settled to cause you to lose what little throw you had... When the actuator goes into 4-wheel low it should go completely and solidly.
There is a rod with a 13 mm nut on the manual Jeeps on there transfer case linkage and it should be the same on the automatic... You want to loosen that nut and physically turn the actuator on the transfer case to get the Jeep into 4-wheel low and then tighten the nut all this needs to be done while the handle is in the very highest position.
This should give you four wheel low and it will work but if you will change to a Savvy shift cable you will never have any issues again pretty much.
My Zone 4.25 lift came with a linkage relocation bracket and has been working fine for months. Just all of a sudden the 4wd indicator light is messed up. The Savoy cable mod is on my to do list, however. Savvy, stupid autocorrect!
Same issue, just fixed it last week. First problem was the 4wd position sensor on top of the transfer case. That also determines if you are in 4LO and allows shifting of the lockers. Do you have locker issues?
Do you have any other electrical gremlins, like non functioning interior lights? or no power to the extra 12 volt plug beside the cigarette lighter?
Heres what we did last week to get the 4WD, Front Locker, Rear Locker das lights working.. cut and paste from another thread.
Some time in July the lockers quit engaging. I finally addressed that issue this week. The easy part was replacing the transfer case position switch. But that was only the mechanical problem.
Then came tracing down the electrical gremlins.
Things which quit over the past 3 months.
Interior dome lights.
Second power supply beside the cigarette lighter.
The 4WD and Front/Rear Locker dash indicator lights.
The Locker Switch.
All take power from the same wire, buried in a wire loom with 200 other wires running from the under hood fuse box, behind the battery and into the dash.Amazingly, after opening the wire loom, the only corroded wire was on top. Splice in a 12" piece of wire, DONE !!!! Everything works like new again.
Some time in July the lockers quit engaging. I finally addressed that issue this week. The easy part was replacing the transfer case position switch. But that was only the mechanical problem.
Then came tracing down the electrical gremlins.
Things which quit over the past 3 months.
Interior dome lights.
Second power supply beside the cigarette lighter.
The 4WD and Front/Rear Locker dash indicator lights.
The Locker Switch.
All take power from the same wire, buried in a wire loom with 200 other wires running from the under hood fuse box, behind the battery and into the dash.Amazingly, after opening the wire loom, the only corroded wire was on top. Splice in a 12" piece of wire, DONE !!!! Everything works like new again.