Transmission is slipping and something is hanging under my TJ

AtlWrangler99

AtlWrangler99

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Messages
145
Location
Atlanta, GA, United States
Hey ya'll, it's been a while since I have been on here but I need some assistance from you all before I drop big red off at the shop. I just want to see if you all can diagnose the problem for me before I drop her off as I don't want the mechanic to get over on me. I want to be able to at least try to figure out what is going on with my baby before I have them diagnose her.

I don't drive her every day as I have a second vehicle, but I have been noticing when I do drive my jeep first thing in the morning it seems like the transmission is slipping. I will press the gas and it may delay to go. Also, when I I'm on a small hill and I take my foot off the brake to press the gas I tend to roll back and then it will jump and go forward.

So I parked her and then I noticed this thing hanging underneath it. Ya'll please forgive me. I just drive her, put gas in her and make sure the oil is changed on time. I have attached pictures. Can you tell me what this is called and how much should I pay to have it repaired. If you need me to slide underneath it I can take more photos tomorrow and post them here. Btw, I reside in the city of Atlanta if there are any mechanics on here.

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Well now you know why your transmission is slipping.

That right there is the transmission skid plate. It holds the transmission in place. By driving with it like that you are not only putting yourself at risk, but others a swell. That rust is so bad that the skid plate could fall out from under your vehicle at any moment potentially causing you to crash.

DO NOT DRIVE LIKE THIS! You need to take it to a mechanic that is well versed in frame repairs and they are going to have to cut the center sections out of the frame and replace them with SafeTCaps or similar. That rust is really, really bad, and the fact that it's rotted to this point is not a good sign.

It's going to be an expensive repair bill if you want it done right, but this is a fairly common issue on Wranglers that have spent most of their lives in the rust belt. Like I said, a good mechanic can fix this, it's just going to cost you.
 
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Thank you Chris. As soon as I noticed the thingy hanging I parked it. I will have it towed to a mechanic. Do you have a ball park at what you think I should pay to have it repaired? And you do you have anyone in the Atlanta area that you or anyone on this forum can recommend? Thank you!!
 
AtlWrangler99 said:
Thank you Chris. As soon as I noticed the thingy hanging I parked it. I will have it towed to a mechanic. Do you have a ball park at what you think I should pay to have it repaired? And you do you have anyone in the Atlanta area that you or anyone on this forum can recommend? Thank you!!
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Spend some time researching frame repair as it appears as though your frame rails may be toast. The skid plate mounts in the frame rail have rusted thru and is likely a serious issue.

These people are one of the industry leaders on frame repair and there is good info available here.

https://www.autorust.com/safe-t-cap-kits/
 
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AtlWrangler99 said:
Thank you Chris. As soon as I noticed the thingy hanging I parked it. I will have it towed to a mechanic. Do you have a ball park at what you think I should pay to have it repaired? And you do you have anyone in the Atlanta area that you or anyone on this forum can recommend? Thank you!!
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It depends on how badly the frame is rusted inside. Assuming they can just cut out the center sections on both sides and weld up new ones, I would estimate that parts and labor shouldn't be more than maybe $700. Of course if they find more rust along the way, all bets are off.

I don't know anyone in Atlanta, but if you posted in the regional sub-forums and ask for recommendations for a good mechanic in Atlanta, someone will chime in.
 
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AtlWrangler99 said:
Thank you. I literally just came across that site. Just watched a youtube video of MorFab Industries.
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A buddy just had this repair done by a local shop here in Missouri. Its was $600 or so in labor plus parts. His repair included both sides of the frame where the skid plate mounts (like yours needs) and both rear portions of the frame where the control arms attached. All in his repair was about $1000. Hope that helps give you a range. Chris gave a good estimate earlier at $600 if you just need the skid plate sections. If its worse than that, count on the price climbing accordingly. Call some off-road shops in the area too. Most of them are familiar with fabrication and this type of repair. Or they will recommend someone who can handle it.

Good luck getting the Jeep patched up and back on the road.
 
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The transfer case skid may or may not be causing your transmission issues. However, it definitely needs addressed first.
 
At first I checked your profile to see if the transmission was an automatic because clutches are known to slip for various reasons too. No transmission info so I checked out your images. That was a fine looking Jeep when you bought it and I bet it's still looking good, for the most part, today. Then I read this again:
AtlWrangler99 said:
I don't drive her every day as I have a second vehicle, but I have been noticing when I do drive my jeep first thing in the morning it seems like the transmission is slipping. I will press the gas and it may delay to go. Also, when I I'm on a small hill and I take my foot off the brake to press the gas I tend to roll back and then it will jump and go forward.
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Based on that I think it's an automatic and there may be some slipping since the tranny is tilted farther back AND leaning to one side moving the fluid away from the pump. That could happen whether it's full or not. The "jump and go forward" may be the transmission engaging causing the whole drivetrain to lift everything back up into place (temporarily).

Back to the frame. Since your TJ is in Atlanta and doesn't look like it's been through any rust belt winters that also add rust holes to the upper front fenders and below the doors and tail lights, the major rust you've now experienced is probably just from years of stuff getting collected in that flat area of the frame. The other side is probably close to the same condition. You definitely want to have the inside of the frame checked where the control arm brackets are welded on but I bet that's in considerably better condition and may not need anything.

After it's fixed adding drain holes will help it stay that way.
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
At first I checked your profile to see if the transmission was an automatic because clutches are known to slip for various reasons too. No transmission info so I checked out your images. That was a fine looking Jeep when you bought it and I bet it's still looking good, for the most part, today. Then I read this again:


Based on that I think it's an automatic and there may be some slipping since the tranny is tilted farther back AND leaning to one side moving the fluid away from the pump. That could happen whether it's full or not. The "jump and go forward" may be the transmission engaging causing the whole drivetrain to lift everything back up into place (temporarily).

Back to the frame. Since your TJ is in Atlanta and doesn't look like it's been through any rust belt winters that also add rust holes to the upper front fenders and below the doors and tail lights, the major rust you've now experienced is probably just from years of stuff getting collected in that flat area of the frame. The other side is probably close to the same condition. You definitely want to have the inside of the frame checked where the control arm brackets are welded on but I bet that's in considerably better condition and may not need anything.

After it's fixed adding drain holes will help it stay that way.
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Thank you. Yes, it is an automatic. I actually bought it in 2017 from someone that had just moved to Atlanta from Chicago and they needed some fast cash. Since the original home for big red was up north, there may be quite a bit of rust underneath. I will have someone to check it out for me next week. The body is in very good condition. I think I got a pretty good deal. They were in a bind and sold to me for 10k with a bikini top and the hard top. A little over 200k miles and the engine has been replaced.
 
I'm glad that you are willing to get your Jeep fixed and don't think it's the end of the line for it.

The body being still in very good condition tells me that it probably didn't spent much time in the actual Chicago snow/salt/slush and that's good news.

My Rubicon spent its first 12 years in the rust belt but very little if any time in the snow/salt/slush. The only place I experienced any rust on the body was some slight bulging under my passenger tail light but the paint was fine so 2 1/2 years ago I tapped it flat and Fluid Filmed behind several times. Even today it doesn't really show. My frame did have problems where yours are. Luckily my frame rust didn't come from the inside but I did lose some big chunks from between the frame and skid plate. At least my pressed in nuts stayed in place and some hammer action let me know it's still strong. Since the rest of your Jeep isn't showing the major body problems I'm hoping your frame is only bad in those flat areas. It just makes getting it fixed somewhat cheaper and quicker.
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
I'm glad that you are willing to get your Jeep fixed and don't think it's the end of the line for it.

The body being still in very good condition tells me that it probably didn't spent much time in the actual Chicago snow/salt/slush and that's good news.

My Rubicon spent its first 12 years in the rust belt but very little if any time in the snow/salt/slush. The only place I experienced any rust on the body was some slight bulging under my passenger tail light but the paint was fine so 2 1/2 years ago I tapped it flat and Fluid Filmed behind several times. Even today it doesn't really show. My frame did have problems where yours are. Luckily my frame rust didn't come from the inside but I did lose some big chunks from between the frame and skid plate. At least my pressed in nuts stayed in place and some hammer action let me know it's still strong. Since the rest of your Jeep isn't showing the major body problems I'm hoping your frame is only bad in those flat areas. It just makes getting it fixed somewhat cheaper and quicker.
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Yes, I LOVE my jeep. I think I will have her forever. Folks are always trying to make me an offer, but I just can't do it. Hopefully the repairs aren't too expensive, but hey we all know it costs to have these babies. :)
 
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I don't see where these <$1000 estimates are coming from. The full-length Safe T Caps alone cost upwards of $800—a few hundred cheaper if you go through Pocono Metal. I would never trust a welder who would plasma cut the bottom of the frame off and then weld new caps on for $200.

Realistically you are going to spend close to $2000 or more for a professional job.
 
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