Transmission question
- Thread starter KimberlyHoward80
- Start date
OP
OP
That's quite expensive. I would buy this one: JB Conversions
First one in the list of 4. Good quality, priced right, uses a higher clearance yoke than others, and the kit is not cheap china junk. Alloy USA is cheap china junk, generally.
OP
And this one fixes the problem of dropping the transfer case plate and it not shifting anymore?
yes, it improves the transfer case to driveshaft relationship to an different design that can handle the angles created by a suspension lift. You would keep the transfer case at stock height so no shifting issues, but the vibe issues would go away too.
OP
With a SYE you also need a new rear drive shaft. Adams or Tom Woods are the way to go.
I would also suggest removing the factory linkage and installing a cable shifter. I have a Stienjager.
Cable shifter would allow you to reinstall the 3/4" spacers to possibly address pinion angle issues with the lift. Manufacturer of said lift kit presumably included them for a reason.
Be careful with the SYE...I recommend them and the Adams driveshaft...but be aware if you don't have adjustable control arms you might end up with driveshaft vibrations.
I'm trying to find some cheap adjustable arms now to address said issue on my jeep...my plan is eventually install the Barnes DIY long arm kit...but I'm hoping to cheaply adjust the pinion angle meanwhile.
-Mac
Cable shifter would allow you to reinstall the 3/4" spacers to possibly address pinion angle issues with the lift. Manufacturer of said lift kit presumably included them for a reason.
Be careful with the SYE...I recommend them and the Adams driveshaft...but be aware if you don't have adjustable control arms you might end up with driveshaft vibrations.
I'm trying to find some cheap adjustable arms now to address said issue on my jeep...my plan is eventually install the Barnes DIY long arm kit...but I'm hoping to cheaply adjust the pinion angle meanwhile.
-Mac
dstaples
New Member
I had same problem when I installed lift kit and it was due to the lift. The shifter didn't have enough throw to stay in gear and would come out or grind when going in. I had to move the console and find the sweet spot where it would work better. Also the rubber boot was not helping because it was stiff. They do make a shift lever that is longer and I saw a YouTube that said that would help but I never tried it. I hope this helps someone that may still have a problem. Kimberly glad you got your problem resolved.
@KimberlyHoward80
You really opened up a can of worms going with a lift over 2.5” since it will pretty much always cause driveline vibrations. There are 3 solutions
1) TCase drop. This caused shifter clearance issues in 2/4/R, so you could clearance the tub or move the console back, whichever the shifter is hitting. (FREE)
2) A 1” motor mount lift. This raises the engine and consequently lowers the rear TCase output, helping the driveline angles. ($80)
3) A Slip Yoke Eliminator. Double Cardan drive shaft, and rear Control Arms. The best solution ($1000+).
You still may not have adjusted your TCase 4wd linkage. After a lift like yours they sometimes bind and need slight adjustment.
My .02c,
You really opened up a can of worms going with a lift over 2.5” since it will pretty much always cause driveline vibrations. There are 3 solutions
1) TCase drop. This caused shifter clearance issues in 2/4/R, so you could clearance the tub or move the console back, whichever the shifter is hitting. (FREE)
2) A 1” motor mount lift. This raises the engine and consequently lowers the rear TCase output, helping the driveline angles. ($80)
3) A Slip Yoke Eliminator. Double Cardan drive shaft, and rear Control Arms. The best solution ($1000+).
You still may not have adjusted your TCase 4wd linkage. After a lift like yours they sometimes bind and need slight adjustment.
My .02c,