U-joints, ball joints, what else to do?

Bratch

Bratch

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All right guys you talked me out of any new mods for now so let’s do some more maintenance.

Quick background, have 2004 LJ with 125,000 miles; I’ve had it since 95,000 putting 5,000-10,000 on it per year. As far as I know it has always worn 30-31” tires.

I have done ZJ tie rods and brakes/rotors but haven’t worked any of the joints. Trying to stay ahead of failures I was thinking about replacing all of the U joints and ball joints.

My questions are:

Any reasons not to do all of the U joints and ball joints?

Saw one thread mentioned doing the CV at the same time, worth while?

Anything else I should do while I am in there? I would rather spend some extra money now and replace everything while it’s torn apart than do one thing at a time for the next couple years.
 
There's no reason not to do them at this point, making sure not to use any store brand ball joints or store brand u-joints. I'd go with nothing but two of these OEM Spicer ball joint kits https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and Spicer 5-760x u-joints for your axle shafts like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1XDZG/?tag=wranglerorg-20. The 5-760x is an upgraded stronger and more durable u-joint than the Spicer 5-297 the factory installed.

And yes too to the CV joint on your front driveshaft, I'd install Spicer 5-1310x u-joints at both ends. They're a stronger more durable direct replacement for what the factory installed. If the CV joint at the rear of the front driveshaft seizes it can take the transfer case out, the transfer case is known to literally explode when that CV joint seizes.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
There's no reason not to do them at this point, making sure not to use any store brand ball joints or store brand u-joints. I'd go with nothing but two of these OEM Spicer ball joint kits https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and Spicer 5-760x u-joints for your axle shafts like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1XDZG/?tag=wranglerorg-20. The 5-760x is an upgraded stronger and more durable u-joint than the Spicer 5-297 the factory installed.

And yes too to the CV joint on your front driveshaft, I'd install Spicer 5-1310x u-joints at both ends. They're a stronger more durable direct replacement for what the factory installed. If the CV joint at the rear of the front driveshaft seizes it can take the transfer case out, the transfer case is known to literally explode when that CV joint seizes.
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Thanks.

Worth while to do the wheel bearings while I’m in there?
 
How do you know when its time for the u-joints? 02 TJ, 125k miles, everything feels fine as far as I can tell. Only minor off roading, mainly highway these days.
 
Pantera99 said:
How do you know when its time for the u-joints? 02 TJ, 125k miles, everything feels fine as far as I can tell. Only minor off roading, mainly highway these days.
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At a little over 100k driving plus 20k of flat towing I started to get death wobble. So I did everything. ZJ steering, unit bearings, ball joints, universals, track bar, drag link, etc. No more death wobble.
 
Pantera99 said:
How do you know when its time for the u-joints? 02 TJ, 125k miles, everything feels fine as far as I can tell. Only minor off roading, mainly highway these days.
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I could hear my u-joints chirping around corners in my neighborhood at low speeds. In some cases, you can see rust colored dust on them that indicates the needle bearings are toast.
 
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TurboTJ said:
At a little over 100k driving plus 20k of flat towing I started to get death wobble. So I did everything. ZJ steering, unit bearings, ball joints, universals, track bar, drag link, etc. No more death wobble.
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Ok, I was expecting a bit of death wobble when I bought her but she's actually been pretty good! Highway everyday & I keep it around 60 just to save gas. It does fine at 70+ just kills the mileage.
 
Pantera99 said:
Ok, I was expecting a bit of death wobble when I bought her but she's actually been pretty good! Highway everyday & I keep it around 60 just to save gas. It does fine at 70+ just kills the mileage.
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Everything on mine seemed tight with no obvious movement in a dry steering test. Nevertheless, death wobble came out of nowhere so something must have been worn out. Prior to this, wheel re-balancing had no effect. That was followed with tire replacement which also had no effect. Once you’ve had death wobble you’ll want to get rid of it quick. All that stuff I did really didn’t cost that much.
 
PRNDL said:
I could hear my u-joints chirping around corners in my neighborhood at low speeds. In some cases, you can see rust colored dust on them that indicates the needle bearings are toast.
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Ok, good to know. Not many odd noises other than a weird noise on cold startups in, well, in our version of winter. I think its one of the pulleys along the drive belt. But when warm it doesn't do it. Kinda weird.
 
Pantera99 said:
Ok, good to know. Not many odd noises other than a weird noise on cold startups in, well, in our version of winter. I think its one of the pulleys along the drive belt. But when warm it doesn't do it. Kinda weird.
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Yup, that is the idler puller. I’ve replaced mine twice now. It is a real cheap fix.
 
TurboTJ said:
Yup, that is the idler puller. I’ve replaced mine twice now. It is a real cheap fix.
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Ok great! Have a new belt I've just been waiting for it to cool off to do that & coolant/hoses. What do you think about the water pump? Was thinking of swapping it while I'm in there. Only 125k miles but it is 20 years old.
 
Thanks guys.

Here is what I have put together to order:

2 ball joints:

Spicer 706944X Suspension Ball Joint Kit https://a.co/iQPzeOM

2 axle U joints:

Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit 1310WJ Series (ISR) https://a.co/cnyAmB4

5 driveshaft U joints (non greaseable):

Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR) https://a.co/gvRHWmJ

2 Wheel bearings:

Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly https://a.co/eOPDrH2

1 Center Yolk

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-211544x

OTC ball joint kit:

OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit with Storage Case , Gray https://a.co/hBWWC0P

OTC Dodge Adapter:

OTC (7894) Jeep/Dodge Ball Joint Service Adapter https://a.co/fJEG08G

36mm Socket

Limited-time deal: NEIKO 02527A 36mm Socket | 1/2” Drive Deep Impact Socket | Spindle & Axle Nut Socket | 12 Point |Chrome Molybdenum Cr-Mo |Deep Well Hub | Triple Square | Axle Shaft Nut Remover https://a.co/bcX9CfW

Hub puller tool

8629 Wheel Hub Removal Tool Replace for ATD Tools,Compatible with All Axle Bolt Hubs (5, 6 and 8 Lug Hubs) https://a.co/65N7bj1

Looks like Denny’s kits have everything and are close on price so I may start there:

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2..._for_jeep_with_oem_1310_series_non_greas.html


From everything I’ve found that should give me all of the parts and tools I need to redo my U joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings. Anything missing or any tools that make the job easier I need to add?
 
You don't need the hub puller. You can use a bolt between the inner C and the yoke ear. Then you use the steering wheel to force the hub out. Stu has a write up on his archived site.

https://web.archive.org/web/2017111...ffroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
unitb-1.jpg
 
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Pantera99 said:
Ok great! Have a new belt I've just been waiting for it to cool off to do that & coolant/hoses. What do you think about the water pump? Was thinking of swapping it while I'm in there. Only 125k miles but it is 20 years old.
Click to expand...

Replacing the idler pulley is literally a five minute job. The water pump, that’s going to take a bit longer. But I think most water pumps don’t last much longer than 100k.
 
Bratch said:
Thanks guys.

Here is what I have put together to order:

2 ball joints:

Spicer 706944X Suspension Ball Joint Kit https://a.co/iQPzeOM

2 axle U joints:

Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit 1310WJ Series (ISR) https://a.co/cnyAmB4

5 driveshaft U joints (non greaseable):

Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR) https://a.co/gvRHWmJ

2 Wheel bearings:

Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly https://a.co/eOPDrH2

1 Center Yolk

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-211544x

OTC ball joint kit:

OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit with Storage Case , Gray https://a.co/hBWWC0P

OTC Dodge Adapter:

OTC (7894) Jeep/Dodge Ball Joint Service Adapter https://a.co/fJEG08G

36mm Socket

Limited-time deal: NEIKO 02527A 36mm Socket | 1/2” Drive Deep Impact Socket | Spindle & Axle Nut Socket | 12 Point |Chrome Molybdenum Cr-Mo |Deep Well Hub | Triple Square | Axle Shaft Nut Remover https://a.co/bcX9CfW

Hub puller tool

8629 Wheel Hub Removal Tool Replace for ATD Tools,Compatible with All Axle Bolt Hubs (5, 6 and 8 Lug Hubs) https://a.co/65N7bj1

Looks like Denny’s kits have everything and are close on price so I may start there:

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2..._for_jeep_with_oem_1310_series_non_greas.html


From everything I’ve found that should give me all of the parts and tools I need to redo my U joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings. Anything missing or any tools that make the job easier I need to add?
Click to expand...

12 point 13 mm wrench or socket for unit bearing retainer bolts
 
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Bratch said:
Thanks guys.

Here is what I have put together to order:

2 ball joints:

Spicer 706944X Suspension Ball Joint Kit https://a.co/iQPzeOM

2 axle U joints:

Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit 1310WJ Series (ISR) https://a.co/cnyAmB4

5 driveshaft U joints (non greaseable):

Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR) https://a.co/gvRHWmJ

2 Wheel bearings:

Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly https://a.co/eOPDrH2

1 Center Yolk

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-211544x

OTC ball joint kit:

OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint, and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit with Storage Case , Gray https://a.co/hBWWC0P

OTC Dodge Adapter:

OTC (7894) Jeep/Dodge Ball Joint Service Adapter https://a.co/fJEG08G

36mm Socket

Limited-time deal: NEIKO 02527A 36mm Socket | 1/2” Drive Deep Impact Socket | Spindle & Axle Nut Socket | 12 Point |Chrome Molybdenum Cr-Mo |Deep Well Hub | Triple Square | Axle Shaft Nut Remover https://a.co/bcX9CfW

Hub puller tool

8629 Wheel Hub Removal Tool Replace for ATD Tools,Compatible with All Axle Bolt Hubs (5, 6 and 8 Lug Hubs) https://a.co/65N7bj1

Looks like Denny’s kits have everything and are close on price so I may start there:

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2..._for_jeep_with_oem_1310_series_non_greas.html


From everything I’ve found that should give me all of the parts and tools I need to redo my U joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings. Anything missing or any tools that make the job easier I need to add?
Click to expand...

I also needed a vise and a 3lb mini sledge for the axle u-joints. Mine were stuck pretty good.

See here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/u-joint-woes-help.64684/post-1179166
 
freeskier93 said:
I wouldn't buy a ball joint press. You can rent them from any major auto parts store.
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I use mine for u joints too. Just the clamp by itself works great for changing u joints in axles and driveshafts. I’ve used a hammer and socket before and a couple other methods but the ball joint press is by far the smoothest and safest way I’ve found lol
 
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