UCF Extra Clearance Skid Install

[JeepZilla380]

Just wanted to provide a follow up for anyone considering a UCF Extra Clearance Skid. I am surprised to say it was maybe one of the easiest and plug and play things I’ve done.

Here’s my setup/work done:
05 LJR w/ 6 Speed, 3.5 MetalCloak lift, Savvy Cable Shifter.
We added a 1.25 inch body lift, 1in MML, relocated the locker pumps to the ABS tray. Also changed out the clutch for a new LUK, installed a new Poison Spyder Dana 44 cover on the rear, and I had a slight rear passenger lean that i added a .75 Daystar Coil pad. Oh and some 35% tint on the driver and passenger door that needs redone.

Clearance wise we didn’t have to anything to get the UCF Extra skid to fit! We used the stock transmission mount and the exhaust hanger attached to it is close to the heat shielding, but about a quarter an inch from the body. I am running an after factory Cats and a Magnaflow muffler that isn’t anywhere near the skid.

We spent more time working on getting the pinion angles right in the rear, and today I felt some front driveshaft vibes, so a bit more dialing in there. So far the rear shaft seems to be good, no vibrations while driving and no binding at full droop, but a Tom Wood shaft is on my short list now.

No console modifications needed but my stock inner boot is ripped already so that could help some.

Two “gotchas “ we encountered was the fan shroud and a body mount bolt issue. I’ve always read the fan shroud didn’t need notched if you did both a BL and MML? Maybe the difference between the 1.25BL and 1MML caused the fan to contact the shroud, but we had to notch mine. I also recommend removing the 3 engine mount bolts for the drivers side engine mount vs messing with the compressor.

The capture nut for the drivers side rear mount near the door feels like it broke free. I can screw in the bolt but it never grabs and snugs down at the end. Need to make some time to try and drill and access hole from the top I guess? Anyone ever troubleshoot that issue before?

Ok the fun stuff, pics!

 

[JeepZilla380]

Overall I don’t mind the body lift and kinda amazed at all the crude and mud that was between the body and the frame. Be nice to be able to clean those areas out well now too.

 

[Chris]

Looks so much better!

Also, with my 1.25" body lift and 1" MML, I didn't need to modify the fan shroud at all, nor did I need to notch it. Crazy, huh?

 

[JeepZilla380]

Looks so much better!

Also, with my 1.25" body lift and 1" MML, I didn't need to modify the fan shroud at all, nor did I need to notch it. Crazy, huh?

Thanks Chris, so glad to be shovel free! Funny how no two Jeeps are alike!

 

[JMT]

At last! I’ve been waiting for this. Great mod. I love it and appreciate that it is just about plug and play. So, how much harder do you think the ultra high clearance skid would have been? And would you have used the stock trannny mount or go with their lo-pro if you went that extreme? It looks so much better. Thanks for posting the update.

For that bolt that won’t go in on the driver’s side near the door, sounds like you need a new nutsert from Mr Blaine. I think they’re about $6. I’ve replaced one before. It’s not hard to do.

 

[JeepZilla380]

At last! I’ve been waiting for this. Great mod. I love it and appreciate that it is just about plug and play. So, how much harder do you think the ultra high clearance skid would have been? And would you have used the stock trannny mount or go with their lo-pro if you went that extreme? It looks so much better. Thanks for posting the update.

For that bolt that won’t go in on the driver’s side near the door, sounds like you need a new nutsert from Mr Blaine. I think they’re about $6. I’ve replaced one before. It’s not hard to do.

Hey JMT, without looking at your profile, are you a Rubicon with the 241 or running an auto? For my setup if I had gone with their high clearance skid I can see where I would have needed to do some clearancing. The tub would have needed some hammering, one bracket on top of the TC would need to be removed and the stock exhaust hanger cut down or removed. My goals were removing the shovel and getting as close to flat without a ton of work. I was fully prepared to take a ton of pics of the stuff we had to modify, but it just didnt happen that way! . I can shoot any additional pics you may want to see, and can look through what I do have.

Other thing I discovered, for those of us with the Body Armor 4x4 frame mounted rock rails. Those frame mounts hold a ton of dirt and mud in.

 

[JeepZilla380]

For that bolt that won’t go in on the driver’s side near the door, sounds like you need a new nutsert from Mr Blaine. I think they’re about $6. I’ve replaced one before. It’s not hard to do.

Did you have to hack a hole through the top side to reach the nut on the top?

 

[tworley]

For that bolt that won’t go in on the driver’s side near the door, sounds like you need a new nutsert from Mr Blaine. I think they’re about $6. I’ve replaced one before. It’s not hard to do.

X2. I would go ahead and buy an entire packet, I think its $40, but that way they are always on hand if you drop the skid as much as I do.

Did you have to hack a hole through the top side to reach the nut on the top?

No need. BMB shows you how to make a nutsert tool. When you tighten it down the nutsert mushrooms and basically clamps itself to the frame.
http://www.justaddrocks.com/Nutsert_Instructions.htm

 

[JeepZilla380]

X2. I would go ahead and buy an entire packet, I think its $40, but that way they are always on hand if you drop the skid as much as I do.



No need. BMB shows you how to make a nutsert tool. When you tighten it down the nutsert mushrooms and basically clamps itself to the frame.
http://www.justaddrocks.com/Nutsert_Instructions.htm

Cool. This is actually the body mount bolt though, that is up in the sub frame area above the frame. Would the same thing work there too?

 

[Alex01]

Wow what a difference. Was the locker pump relocation necessary for the install?

 

[JeepZilla380]

Wow what a difference. Was the locker pump relocation necessary for the install?

No, but it was highly recommended by Matt at UCF to NOT use his locker relocation bracket and just move the pumps out of harms way down on the skid. I like when vendors want me to save a few bucks!

It really is a terrible place to have those pumps, seeing as any time you do a water crossing or hit some mud those things just get coated. Years of nasty baked on disgust on my pumps.

 

[tworley]

Cool. This is actually the body mount bolt though, that is up in the sub frame area above the frame. Would the same thing work there too?

Im confused--are we talking body bolts or skid plate bolts? The link I posted are for skid plates, the nutserts tend to break free within the frame and this is the repair.

 

[JeepZilla380]

Im confused--are we talking body bolts or skid plate bolts? The link I posted are for skid plates, the nutserts tend to break free within the frame and this is the repair.

Body bolts.

 

[jjvw]

Body bolts.

That's a whole different can of worms. I think most end up cutting a hole and accessing from above.

 

[JeepZilla380]

That's a whole different can of worms. I think most end up cutting a hole and accessing from above.

Yea popular "Internet Consensus" seems to be use a hole saw, chop through floor, correct issue then patch it up or get a plug for it. Seems those rear body bolts are a pain in the arse for a lot of people.

 

[MaloStapalo]

Great Info here, this seems to be the one I'm going with as I too want to avoid any heavy fab work and have a more bolt on system. Did you get the engine skids as well? I cant remember if they have an option to powder coat with your order.

 

[JeepZilla380]

Great Info here, this seems to be the one I'm going with as I too want to avoid any heavy fab work and have a more bolt on system. Did you get the engine skids as well? I cant remember if they have an option to powder coat with your order.

I was already running MetalCloaks Oil pan skid (similar to Teraflex and Nth Degrees design) so just went skid only. I don't see a powder coat option from UCF. http://undercoverfab.com/transfer-c...r-case-skid-extra-clearancecarbon-steel-.html

 

[Camdenst]

That is awesome.

I went with the regular clearance skid worried about vibes and addition mods. After seeing this I'm jealous... anyone want a UCF aluminum regular clearance skid haha, I'll make you a deal.

 

[PRNDL]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread... with the rubicon 241 case, do you think you would be able to get by with a smaller body lift? For example, the Rokmen 1" or .5"? I'm wondering if the lo-pro transmission mount would give the clearance needed to run the smaller body lift. Is the size of the 241 the issue or is it clearance for the exhaust?