UCF general questions

Wow so obvious now that I think about it but that sure makes sense. Part of the powdercoating process involves the piece going in an oven to cure the paint so it sure could affect its heat treatment.
A friend at work learned the hard way. He powder coated some wheels at work for his rice rocket and they cracked and failed going down the road. I did a little research after that, and it's a whole 'nother process to powder coat heat treated aluminum.
 
You can obviously pc aluminum wheels as they are available and folks have had them done. Sport bike wheels can be magnesium so that could have played into it. The aluminum wheels they use are generally cast, could also be an issue.
 
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Most wheels are combination of metals that make up an alloy wheel, yes? I've had the wheels on our Z powder coated with no issues.
 
You can obviously pc aluminum wheels as they are available and folks have had them done. Sport bike wheels can be magnesium so that could have played into it. The aluminum wheels they use are generally cast, could also be an issue.
Most wheels are combination of metals that make up an alloy wheel, yes? I've had the wheels on our Z powder coated with no issues.
Can't argue with that. The facts are that powder coating heat treated aluminum is a specialized process that most shops are not equipped to deal with. AEV has a really good little article on Pintler wheels, powder coating and wheel failure in particular. (One of the articles that I found) Not every wheel will fail, but one of the reasons they are dropping the Pintler is a design feature that causes them to fail when powder coated.

To develop the strength in aluminum that meets, let's say, T-6 specs, the aluminum is heated to a very specific temperature, held at that temperature for a certain period, cooled at a specific rate and then aged. The process is pretty specific and the range of allowable variation is pretty narrow. Can you get away with it multiple times? Probably. Is it safe to do? That's up to the guy riding around on those wheels. (or other aluminum part) Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't do it unless the shop doing the powder coating knew what they were doing and had done it before.
 
More info:
"Let's first describe what is happening when you heat treat 2XXX, 6XXX, or 7XXX alloys. All of these alloys are heat treated by precipitation hardening. This involves two steps—solution heat treating and aging.

Solution heat treatment is done by raising the alloy temperature to about 980 degrees F and holding it there for about an hour. The purpose of this is to dissolve all the alloying elements in a solid solution in the aluminum. Then we quench the alloy in water. The purpose of quenching isn't really to strengthen the alloy, although it does somewhat; it is to cool it rapidly enough to prevent the alloying elements from precipitating on cooling.

So we have a solid solution of magnesium, silicon, and other elements in aluminum at room temperature. This is called the T4 temper. If we take this material and heat treat it at a temperature between 325 and 400 degrees F, the alloying elements begin to form ordered arrays of atoms in the aluminum matrix. These arrays are called GP zones, and they strengthen the aluminum considerably. This heat treatment is called aging, which results in material with a T6 temper.

Three commonly used time/temperature cycles are used for aging—one hour at 400 degrees F; five hours at 350 degrees F; and eight hours at 325 degrees F. All are equally effective.

The question, however, is whether you can perform this yourself. There is no doubt that the result will be 6061-T6 properties if you do it properly. The main difficulty is that the component usually distorts quite a bit during quenching and requires significant mechanical straightening before aging. This is often very difficult or even impossible, especially on large weldments. That's why most people use 6061-T6 in the as-welded condition.

As an aside, you often see designations of T3 and T5 for 6061. What are they? To be considered T4, the aluminum plate (or extrusion, etc.) must be produced, allowed to cool, and then solution treated and quenched. However, aluminum producers quench extrusions right out of the extrusion press while they are still hot. Technically, this produces T3 material, not T4. If you age T3 material, you get T5 material, not T6. Just remember that for our purposes, T3 and T4 materials are the same, as are T5 and T6 materials."

For powder coating cure temps:
"Most powder coatings have a particle size in the range of 2 to 50 μ (Microns), a softening temperature Tg around 80 °C, a melting temperature around 150 °C, and are cured at around 200 °C. for minimum 10 minutes to 15 minutes (exact temperatures and times may depend on the thickness of the item being coated)"

200°C = 392 °F

Aluminum alloy is a misnomer. It's an aluminum solution.

@Rob5589 & @bobthetj03 does that makes sense? By going through the powder coating process you are essentially undoing the aging process. You end up with T-3 aluminum which is not as stong as T-6. Am I missing something here?
 
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Too many numbers and symbols, I am not that smart so yea, sounds good to me :D

Had no idea pc had to get so hot. Someone here had their wheels powder coated just recently. Can't recall who...
 
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So....Reading that left me a little confused. To get T4, you solution heat treat, then water quench. For T6 you leave it at a much lower temperature for much longer...but what about the quench afterward? Doesn't mention that. I don't know about "undoing" the temper...

Also, you gotta remember that we're talking about very specific grades of aluminum. T6 is a high strength version...so if you need that high strength, you need to pay attention to that issue. For a cast wheel, the grade will be different. Not sure what, but almost positive its not 6061-T6. Think about it, with the heat of braking so close to it, why would they make something that is heat sensitive?

All this discussion just shows you that research is your friend...
 
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Think about it, with the heat of braking so close to it, why would they make something that is heat sensitive?

All this discussion just shows you that research is your friend...
I don't think the brakes stay hot enough long enough to do anything. It's not like we're running these things around a track constantly on and off the brakes in a super aggressive manner.
 
But back to the original post, I'm interested to see what you go with. I've looked at their engine and t case skid combo, but couldn't find a whole lot of reviews on it. Let us know what you go with and how you like it.
 
Just got done installing the UCF skid, was as bad as I thought to drill the holes.
I'd say this is a Level 3 on the difficulty scale and took about 2hours (including smoke breaks lol); taking the time to ensure proper clearance on the exhaust, oil drain access and tranny pan clearance caused the extra time.

Tips:

If you have fat fingers, there is NO WAY to get the Buttonhead Allen bolts in the frame below the motor mount! A trick I used to do as installer was you use a sting, wire or hose to feed the screw thru the hole:
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Use a drill bit with a pre-drill point and only took about 3 minutes per hole; would have gone quicker, but had to keep resting the arms from being in an inverted position. Also helps to use and angle drill, standard drill guns wouldnt fit under the car unless I jacked it up; again to lazy to do more work than required:
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Also, had to do a little grinding, the exhaust was alittle to close to the pan; was concerned that engine torque would put a hole in the pipe.
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I don't think the brakes stay hot enough long enough to do anything. It's not like we're running these things around a track constantly on and off the brakes in a super aggressive manner.

Not normally, but if the caliper pins seize, the wheel can get HOT...Like burn your hand hot. I'm sure you know enough to stop driving if you smell it, but the vast majority of the population will not...and there can't be a wheel failure. Wranglers are not the only vehicles on the road with alloy wheels either...so WE may not drive them super aggressively around a track, but some people might do that with a BMW, Honda, Miata, etc.
 
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Not normally, but if the caliper pins seize, the wheel can get HOT...Like burn your hand hot. I'm sure you know enough to stop driving if you smell it, but the vast majority of the population will not...and there can't be a wheel failure. Wranglers are not the only vehicles on the road with alloy wheels either...so WE may not drive them super aggressively around a track, but some people might do that with a BMW, Honda, Miata, etc.

huh? what does this have to do with UCF skids? LOL

On more thing, DO NOT get the Lo Pro Mount for the UCF Skid if you plan on installing the Engine Skid; there is very minimal clearance around the tranny pan and lowering it more with the LPM may cause issues....
 
Looking at the UCF No Body Lift Needed Aluminum skid plate. I have 2.5 inch suspension lift and stock everything else. Would I need their Low Pro Trans mount or anything else to make that work?
 
Looking at the UCF No Body Lift Needed Aluminum skid plate. I have 2.5 inch suspension lift and stock everything else. Would I need their Low Pro Trans mount or anything else to make that work?

I have the same lift on my TJ; and only had to install the after market transfer case linkage, to reduce binding when shift the T-case....

I love my UCF armor; i beat the hell out of it and keep on going!!!
 
I have a UCF UHC on a yj for 10 years, I did the MML and it has an Atlas...It has 17" of belly clearance with 33's. Well worth the money.
 
A friend at work learned the hard way. He powder coated some wheels at work for his rice rocket and they cracked and failed going down the road. I did a little research after that, and it's a whole 'nother process to powder coat heat treated aluminum.
What brand were they? and where were they made..not China huh?

Just curious as to how you knew for fact that the powder coating process was the direct cause of them cracking...?
 
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