Under Armor

[JMT]

Realistically, what kind of under armor do I need? I'm sure this is a question that depends on where you live and what trails you're running. The trails around here are wet and dry creek beds, rocks and rocky ledges. Right now I'm set up with 2.5 OME, Bilstein 5100, stock Dana 35 and 31x10.5". I don't want to do anything too crazy.

I saw this set up by Savvy that looks awesome.

http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/Modula...0FF3571A45838329F5C2960E5113A.p3plqscsfapp001

You have to have the 1BL and 1MML to put this armor on. Plus a transfer case shifter. By the time this is all said and done your at $875. With a BL and MML don't I also need a SYE and Driveshaft? That's not mentioned on the Savvy site but get me straightened out if I'm wrong.

I don't want to ruin my Jeep. One local park (Hidden Adventure Park in Marble Falls) says 2.5" minimum lift but recommends 3.5+ and 33's. If anyone knows this park chime in por favor!

 

[xxdabroxx]

I want the Savvy under armor personally. They seem to make good stuff. You would definitely need the SYE, driveshaft, and adjustable control arms too. You are likely going to need that for just about any tummy tuck worth having though. I think the shifter may be optional, but probably advisable.

A small body lift on a jeep is a good thing IMO, it also allows for better driveshaft angle with the MML, and you can raise the gas tank skid too.

 

[Serbonze]

What year and transmission? Is it the 03-06 manual that you linked?

 

[JMT]

What year and transmission? Is it the 03-06 manual that you linked?

Yes, it's an 05 6-speed....

 

[bobthetj03]

The Savvy under armor raises the T-case higher up into the trans tunnel, thus allowing your skid to sit higher up and gain ground clearance. The body lift/MML helps gain tunnel clearance for the drivetrain to live happy without tunnel interference after raising everything. As a result, your rear drive line angles become severe and require a SYE(non-rubicon) and double cardan drive shaft to help eliminate vibes. Adjustable control arms are needed for the rear so you can adjust the rear diff pinion angle to match the angle of the new drive shaft. This adjustment rotates the differential up and as a secondary result brings your rear shocks very close to hitting the lower spring perches, unless you are lucky to have shocks with the piston rod at the bottom mount. If your shocks hit, a relocation bracket is needed to move the lower mount out from harms way, or you can trim some of the lower spring perch for clearance. Savvy's Under Armor does a fantastic job of addressing these issues and is IMO, one of the best setups on the market.

Most tummy tucks/under armor setups will require most of these things to happen in order for successful, clearance free, no vibe jeeping.
It all comes down to how much room your drivetrain will allow you to raise it, and everything else required to make it live happy there.

 

[bobthetj03]

You want to protect your front diff cover, your oil pan/trany, and steering box skid. Some like to add skids or bracing on their lower control arm brackets since those are the lowest and usually the first thing that hits something. Your factory gas tank skid is actually pretty stout, but hangs pretty low too, and usually sees some rock time.

 

[StG58]

...and usually sees some rock time.

LOVE that line.

Previous two posts are spot on. Under armor and / or TT's are non-trivial or more people would run them.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks for the link...That looks like an awesome kit. Stage two, I keep telling myself. Maybe it should be stage 1, keep 31's for a while, and see what happens? Nah...I need new tires anyway!

 

[JMT]

The Savvy under armor raises the T-case higher up into the trans tunnel, thus allowing your skid to sit higher up and gain ground clearance. The body lift/MML helps gain tunnel clearance for the drivetrain to live happy without tunnel interference after raising everything. As a result, your rear drive line angles become severe and require a SYE(non-rubicon) and double cardan drive shaft to help eliminate vibes. Adjustable control arms are needed for the rear so you can adjust the rear diff pinion angle to match the angle of the new drive shaft. This adjustment rotates the differential up and as a secondary result brings your rear shocks very close to hitting the lower spring perches, unless you are lucky to have shocks with the piston rod at the bottom mount. If your shocks hit, a relocation bracket is needed to move the lower mount out from harms way, or you can trim some of the lower spring perch for clearance. Savvy's Under Armor does a fantastic job of addressing these issues and is IMO, one of the best setups on the market.

Most tummy tucks/under armor setups will require most of these things to happen in order for successful, clearance free, no vibe jeeping.
It all comes down to how much room your drivetrain will allow you to raise it, and everything else required to make it live happy there.

Wow. I appreciate the dissertation. Well said. That would be an awesome set of upgrades. Thanks

 

[Rob5589]

A full tuck takes a lot of work and money. You could just add skids without a tuck which is still great to have.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-official-tummy-tuck-faq-thread.173/