Upright transfer case shift lever

[freedom_in_4low]

If you're one of the ones looking for the NP231J shifter that points up like a YJ instead of laying flat like the TJ's, the eBay guy has some listed:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=133397532397

 

[Lou]

Be ready to modify it!

 

[bobthetj03]

@Alex01?

 

[Leroy_TJ]

I looked all for those a few weeks ago. I ended up cutting the shifter ,welded a 10mm bolt to it. I used the mod for this forum.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Be ready to modify it!

I remember seeing you post about having to cut and drill but I don't recall what exactly the problem was. Any idea whether yours was just an anomaly or if they're all coming out that way?

Either way I'm prepared to handle it if I need to.

 

[Silver Surfer]

No modification needed with the one from eBay. Mounts easy.

 

[afitzray97]

For comparison, what’s it look like in 2hi vs 4lo? Is it cranked back into the console to get it in 4lo? I remember my YJ having an upright knob but can’t picture in my mind the full throw of front to back in the tcase shifter. Interesting mod though either way.

 

[Zorba]

Thank you! Ordered it immediately, before they're out of stock again. Somebody sells an appropriate knob too.

 

[Silver Surfer]

Plenty of room when shifted all the way forward to dash and back to console is not bad. Does not hit console. Second photo is all the way back.

 

[Silver Surfer]

Also thread pitch is 10mm x 1.50 for both knobs.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

No modification needed with the one from eBay. Mounts easy.

View attachment 156895

View attachment 156896

good to hear that, and thanks for the photos!

Maybe @Lou just got a manufacturing defect. Easy to happen on handmade stuff like that. The guy told me he makes about 6 or 7 at a time, so it's unlikely he's using 6 sigma controls.

 

[Lou]

I’ve read other people had to trim and drill theirs. I also needed to bend mine to clear the console.

 

[zebra12]

Here is a post by @glwood re: fit/modification

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/glwoods-2004-jeep-wrangler-rubicon.9356/post-234323

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Also thread pitch is 10mm x 1.50 for both knobs.

Yeah, I'm shopping (somewhat fruitlessly I might add) for an adapter to use a 3/8" x 16 knob, because I actually want to use one of the older YJ or CJ knobs instead.

I may even do the same on my transmission shifter, since I tore it up and broke the shift pattern insert 2 years ago and replaced the insert with a beer bottle cap.

Might be a good second project for my HF FCAW booger spreader after I fix the brake pad divots in my knuckles.

I've been bitten by a retro bug lately, wanting to ditch my JW speaker lookalike headlights for something more traditional looking and my 52" light bar for some round KC's on the bumper. I think it's because since I put the MCE fenders on I think of the old flatfenders every time I look at it.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

so add me to the list of those that had (will have to) modify this thing to make it work.

To start, the hole is too far from the bend.

This allows the lever to shift forward such that the bend can contact the inside of the bracket, setting the forward-most position the lever can reach. I thought about putting some washers under the pin to hold the lever back, which would have solved this, but there's just not enough room to the inward side of the shaft for washers to fit.

The next problem is that the flat area that rides in the shift pattern gate is not machined high enough on the lever shaft, which acts as another limit to how far forward it will go.

The end result is that with the lever in place as-is, you can adjust your shifter to fully engage either 2-hi or 4 low, but not both. I unfortunately did not check this adequately until on the trail, when I could get far enough into 4-low to trip the 4wd indicator light but the case was only reaching far enough for the tips of the teeth in the range selector hub to touch each other and make horrible noises. Fortunately I have a Savvy cable shifter so I just got down there and disconnected the lever end of the cable shifter, and shifted by hand; also it was a trail where I only really needed to shift into and out of low range once.

When I got home I swapped the stock lever back in and will complete the necessary modifications before swapping it back in.

On the shift knob front, I made an adapter by welding a 3/8-16 plow bolt to a M10-1.5 nut, which worked, but the transition was ugly enough to not even be worth taking a photo. I think instead I'm going to drill and tap the shift knob from 3/8"-16 to M10x1.5 which is slightly bigger (the major and minor diameters overlap) and will fit the lever directly. Since the thread pitch between the two is so close, I don't think it'll lose any threads in the process (I wouldn't do it this way if it was 3/8"-24).

 

[Lou]

so add me to the list of those that had (will have to) modify this thing to make it work.

To start, the hole is too far from the bend.

View attachment 164655

This allows the lever to shift forward such that the bend can contact the inside of the bracket, setting the forward-most position the lever can reach. I thought about putting some washers under the pin to hold the lever back, which would have solved this, but there's just not enough room to the inward side of the shaft for washers to fit.

View attachment 164656

The next problem is that the flat area that rides in the shift pattern gate is not machined high enough on the lever shaft, which acts as another limit to how far forward it will go. View attachment 164657

The end result is that with the lever in place as-is, you can adjust your shifter to fully engage either 2-hi or 4 low, but not both. I unfortunately did not check this adequately until on the trail, when I could get far enough into 4-low to trip the 4wd indicator light but it was not fully engaged in the transfer case. Fortunately I have a Savvy cable shifter so I just got down there and disconnected the lever end of the cable shifter, and shifted by hand; also it was a trail where I only really needed to shift into and out of low range once.

When I got home I swapped the stock lever back in and will complete the necessary modifications before swapping it back in.

On the shift knob front, I made an adapter by welding a 3/8-16 plow bolt to a M10-1.5 nut, which worked, but the transition was ugly enough to not even be worth taking a photo. I think instead I'm going to drill and tap the shift knob from 3/8"-16 to M10x1.5 which is slightly bigger (the major and minor diameters overlap) and will fit the lever directly. Since the thread pitch between the two is so close, I don't think it'll lose any threads in the process (I wouldn't do it this way if it was 3/8"-24).

I totally forgot I also had to grind and repaint it for the clearance in the gate! Definitely not bolt in but once you get it fitted it’s all good!

 

[ParatrooperJeeper]

so add me to the list of those that had (will have to) modify this thing to make it work.

To start, the hole is too far from the bend.

View attachment 164655

This allows the lever to shift forward such that the bend can contact the inside of the bracket, setting the forward-most position the lever can reach. I thought about putting some washers under the pin to hold the lever back, which would have solved this, but there's just not enough room to the inward side of the shaft for washers to fit.

View attachment 164656

The next problem is that the flat area that rides in the shift pattern gate is not machined high enough on the lever shaft, which acts as another limit to how far forward it will go. View attachment 164657

The end result is that with the lever in place as-is, you can adjust your shifter to fully engage either 2-hi or 4 low, but not both. I unfortunately did not check this adequately until on the trail, when I could get far enough into 4-low to trip the 4wd indicator light but the case was only reaching far enough for the tips of the teeth in the range selector hub to touch each other and make horrible noises. Fortunately I have a Savvy cable shifter so I just got down there and disconnected the lever end of the cable shifter, and shifted by hand; also it was a trail where I only really needed to shift into and out of low range once.

When I got home I swapped the stock lever back in and will complete the necessary modifications before swapping it back in.

On the shift knob front, I made an adapter by welding a 3/8-16 plow bolt to a M10-1.5 nut, which worked, but the transition was ugly enough to not even be worth taking a photo. I think instead I'm going to drill and tap the shift knob from 3/8"-16 to M10x1.5 which is slightly bigger (the major and minor diameters overlap) and will fit the lever directly. Since the thread pitch between the two is so close, I don't think it'll lose any threads in the process (I wouldn't do it this way if it was 3/8"-24).

so add me to the list of those that had (will have to) modify this thing to make it work.

To start, the hole is too far from the bend.

View attachment 164655

This allows the lever to shift forward such that the bend can contact the inside of the bracket, setting the forward-most position the lever can reach. I thought about putting some washers under the pin to hold the lever back, which would have solved this, but there's just not enough room to the inward side of the shaft for washers to fit.

View attachment 164656

The next problem is that the flat area that rides in the shift pattern gate is not machined high enough on the lever shaft, which acts as another limit to how far forward it will go. View attachment 164657

The end result is that with the lever in place as-is, you can adjust your shifter to fully engage either 2-hi or 4 low, but not both. I unfortunately did not check this adequately until on the trail, when I could get far enough into 4-low to trip the 4wd indicator light but the case was only reaching far enough for the tips of the teeth in the range selector hub to touch each other and make horrible noises. Fortunately I have a Savvy cable shifter so I just got down there and disconnected the lever end of the cable shifter, and shifted by hand; also it was a trail where I only really needed to shift into and out of low range once.

When I got home I swapped the stock lever back in and will complete the necessary modifications before swapping it back in.

On the shift knob front, I made an adapter by welding a 3/8-16 plow bolt to a M10-1.5 nut, which worked, but the transition was ugly enough to not even be worth taking a photo. I think instead I'm going to drill and tap the shift knob from 3/8"-16 to M10x1.5 which is slightly bigger (the major and minor diameters overlap) and will fit the lever directly. Since the thread pitch between the two is so close, I don't think it'll lose any threads in the process (I wouldn't do it this way if it was 3/8"-24).

You touched on something I’m having a little trouble with. I recently bolted up the savvy cable shifter and I now can’t get it into 4-low due to the shifter hitting the back of the counsel. I think I know where I didn’t tighten the nuts evenly but which lever underneath impacts that tub shifters location? Meaning will I need to adjust the lever that’s towards the rear/up top or the one towards the front and lower?

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

so add me to the list of those that had (will have to) modify this thing to make it work.

To start, the hole is too far from the bend.

Mine worked like this.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

You touched on something I’m having a little trouble with. I recently bolted up the savvy cable shifter and I now can’t get it into 4-low due to the shifter hitting the back of the counsel. I think I know where I didn’t tighten the nuts evenly but which lever underneath impacts that tub shifters location? Meaning will I need to adjust the lever that’s towards the rear/up top or the one towards the front and lower?

Hopefully that makes sense.

When I adjust my savvy, I put the transfer case and the shift lever in 4 low and set the cable length in that position. It should drop right into 2 hi when you put it forward, but I double check to make sure by disconnecting the end and making sure the t-case is all the way in.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Mine worked like this.
View attachment 164886

I can't rule out the possibility that the space in the lever housing varied from one TJ to another, or between years. I just know my lever has a spot where the paint has rubbed off from contact there as well as at the flat spot where it contacts the gate.