Verifying best practices for gear break in

Blake Stamper

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Hey y’all, I dropped my jeep off at the shop to get 5.13s installed. I have been reading a lot of threads on the best practices for gear break in and it varies from stop for 30 minutes every 10 miles to it’s not very important. This is biggest purchase I’ve made on the jeep and I really don’t want to mess it up, so any tips and suggestions on how to ensure a proper break in would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hey y’all, I dropped my jeep off at the shop to get 5.13s installed. I have been reading a lot of threads on the best practices for gear break in and it varies from stop for 30 minutes every 10 miles to it’s not very important. This is biggest purchase I’ve made on the jeep and I really don’t want to mess it up, so any tips and suggestions on how to ensure a proper break in would be greatly appreciated.

Regardless of what anyone says, there is only one answer that is correct. You break them in however the guy providing the warranty tells you to.
 
My first gear swap I didnt do anything. Hit the hwy at 70 for the hour long drive home.

Second gear swap I drove for 15 min, stopped for 25 min to let them cool, then hit the road again at 70 for the rest of the trip home.

Neither set imploded on me.
 
Make sure they add nothing but a conventional gear lube after they're done and when it's time to change it during the break-in, replace it with more conventional. Doing this helps the gears to run significantly cooler during the critical break-in process where heat is the biggest enemy. Gears have been shown to run significantly hotter during the break-in process when lubricated with a synthetic.

Revolution Gear is just one of many saying to use a conventional...

"Recommended gear oil is an 80W-90 or 85W-140, Non-Synthetic, GL5 grade or Higher, Name Brand Oil" from https://www.revolutiongear.com/ring_and_pinion_break_procedure
 
Regardless of what anyone says, there is only one answer that is correct. You break them in however the guy providing the warranty tells you to.

This is very true. Make sure to talk to your installer and see what they want you to do. Really for me the important part is the first twenty mile drive cool cycle and I check to see how hot the pinion is at that point. It can be almost too hot to touch but should not be sizzling hot which indicates the pinion may have been set with too much preload. After that just drive it normal for 500 miles and then change the oil.
 
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Make sure they add nothing but a conventional gear lube after they're done and when it's time to change it during the break-in, replace it with more conventional. Doing this helps the gears to run significantly cooler during the critical break-in process where heat is the biggest enemy.

Revolution Gear is just one of many saying to use a conventional...

"Recommended gear oil is an 80W-90 or 85W-140, Non-Synthetic, GL5 grade or Higher, Name Brand Oil" from https://www.revolutiongear.com/ring_and_pinion_break_procedure

The 44 has a factory LSD, do they still add the additive for an LSD or do we wait until after the break-in process for that?
 
Thats what I thought and that was the plan, just wanted to verify.

Unless you are buying a gear oil that specifically states it has the additive included you need to add some. A lot of gear oils say "Limited Slip Compatible" and that just does not mean anything.
 
Unless you are buying a gear oil that specifically states it has the additive included you need to add some. A lot of gear oils say "Limited Slip Compatible" and that just does not mean anything.

Yup, I already made sure he knew I needed the additive, funny enough he's actually the guy that gave me a great deal on the 44.
 
Make sure they add nothing but a conventional gear lube after they're done and when it's time to change it during the break-in, replace it with more conventional. Doing this helps the gears to run significantly cooler during the critical break-in process where heat is the biggest enemy. Gears have been shown to run significantly hotter during the break-in process when lubricated with a synthetic.

Revolution Gear is just one of many saying to use a conventional...

"Recommended gear oil is an 80W-90 or 85W-140, Non-Synthetic, GL5 grade or Higher, Name Brand Oil" from https://www.revolutiongear.com/ring_and_pinion_break_procedure

I wonder how they came up with the non-synthetic requirement
I've known synthetic oils to transfer heat significantly better than conventional oils as thermal conductivity typically scales inversely to particle size in heat transfer media
 
I wonder how they came up with the non-synthetic requirement
I've known synthetic oils to transfer heat significantly better than conventional oils as thermal conductivity typically scales inversely to particle size in heat transfer media

Smoked too many pinion bearings and gear sets is how most of them that I know came up with it.
 
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I wonder how they came up with the non-synthetic requirement
I've known synthetic oils to transfer heat significantly better than conventional oils as thermal conductivity typically scales inversely to particle size in heat transfer media
Lots of industry people used to think that too but they no longer do. Buyers of aftermarket axles and gears started having lots of aftermarket ring & pinion failures and companies like Currie and Dynatrac were losing a lot of $$$ replacing them. They then tracked the failures down to the customers who had filled the axles up with synthetic gear lubes. That confused the hell out of everyone.


They started running tests to figure out what was happening. IR guns were showing the pumpkins filled with synthetic gear lubes were running at lower temperatures than axles filled with conventional gear lubes which confused them even more. Probes placed in the synthetic gear lube confirmed it was operating at lower temperatures. It just wasn't making any sense.

They then built a special test jig so they could directly measure the temperature of the new aftermarket ring & pinion gears themselves while lubed with synthetic then conventional gear lubes. Those tests confirmed the R&P gears lubricated with a synthetic were running significantly hotter and the reason the synthetic gear lube was not nearly as effective at sinking/extracting the heat out of the gears as conventional gear lubes were. It shocked the industry experts.

Companies like Currie and Dynatrac then changed their warranties to require only the use of conventional gear lubes and placed tags on the axles indicating that only conventional gear lubes should be used. That stopped the excessive R&P failures. All this happened probably 15+ years ago and I heard about it personally from John Currie.

And when you bring up the fact that many new car axles, maybe even Jeep now I don't know, come pre-filled with synthetic gear lubes yes that is true. And the reason those new R&P gears don't fail is because all R&P gears new car and Jeep manufacturers install are pre-lapped by the gear manufacturers like Dana-Spicer. Pre-lapped means they don't need to be broken in, they went through a break-in/lapping process as a matched pair before being shipped to the car manufacturer and are ready to go as-is.

Aftermarket gears are not pre-lapped and require a careful breaking in process and anything to minimize the heat generated during the break-in process will help them survive that process. The use of conventional gear lube during that critical time is an important part of the break-in process that helps significantly.

Is it possible to install aftermarket gears and use a synthetic during the break-in? Of course, but that places a huge amount of extra care and time required to ensure the gears never get hot enough to damage them during the break-in which is a lot more difficult. I personally had a set of new R&P gears go bad from having used a synthetic gear lube during the break-in. And I took great care during the break-in process to do as advised, I was very careful yet they still got too hot. When the gears went bad and I went to have them replaced, the gear expert I used pulled the gears out and after looking at them said I had "burned them up" and then said 'you used a synthetic gear lube didn't you'. He also confirmed their setup was fine and not the reason for the problem. I learned a huge lesson from that and I do my best to let others know about the recommended use of a conventional gear lube for breaking new gears in so others don't burn their gears up like I did.
 
Lots of industry people used to think that too but they no longer do. Buyers of aftermarket axles and gears started having lots of aftermarket ring & pinion failures and companies like Currie and Dynatrac were losing a lot of $$$ replacing them. They then tracked the failures down to the customers who had filled the axles up with synthetic gear lubes. That confused the hell out of everyone.


They started running tests to figure out what was happening. IR guns were showing the pumpkins filled with synthetic gear lubes were running at lower temperatures than axles filled with conventional gear lubes which confused them even more. Probes placed in the synthetic gear lube confirmed it was operating at lower temperatures. It just wasn't making any sense.

They then built a special test jig so they could directly measure the temperature of the new aftermarket ring & pinion gears themselves while lubed with synthetic then conventional gear lubes. Those tests confirmed the R&P gears lubricated with a synthetic were running significantly hotter and the reason the synthetic gear lube was not nearly as effective at sinking/extracting the heat out of the gears as conventional gear lubes were. It shocked the industry experts.

Companies like Currie and Dynatrac then changed their warranties to require only the use of conventional gear lubes and placed tags on the axles indicating that only conventional gear lubes should be used. That stopped the excessive R&P failures. All this happened probably 15+ years ago and I heard about it personally from John Currie.

And when you bring up the fact that many new car axles, maybe even Jeep now I don't know, come pre-filled with synthetic gear lubes yes that is true. And the reason those new R&P gears don't fail is because all R&P gears new car and Jeep manufacturers install are pre-lapped by the gear manufacturers like Dana-Spicer. Pre-lapped means they don't need to be broken in, they went through a break-in/lapping process as a matched pair before being shipped to the car manufacturer and are ready to go as-is.

Aftermarket gears are not pre-lapped and require a careful breaking in process and anything to minimize the heat generated during the break-in process will help them survive that process. The use of conventional gear lube during that critical time is an important part of the break-in process that helps significantly.

Is it possible to install aftermarket gears and use a synthetic during the break-in? Of course, but that places a huge amount of extra care and time required to ensure the gears never get hot enough to damage them during the break-in which is a lot more difficult. I personally had a set of new R&P gears go bad from having used a synthetic gear lube during the break-in. And I took great care during the break-in process to do as advised, I was very careful yet they still got too hot. When the gears went bad and I went to have them replaced, the gear expert I used pulled the gears out and after looking at them said I had "burned them up" and then said 'you used a synthetic gear lube didn't you'. He also confirmed their setup was fine and not the reason for the problem. I learned a huge lesson from that and I do my best to let others know about the recommended use of a conventional gear lube for breaking new gears in so others don't burn their gears up like I did.

I've been told the same by folks at the gear places and still can't get my head around what is going on. It makes no sense that the oil and housing is cooler and the gears are much hotter.

John and I discussed synthetic several times. He related that Currie had nothing against synthetics they just couldn't find one that did what they needed it to do.
 
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I've been told the same by folks at the gear places and still can't get my head around what is going on. It makes no sense that the oil and housing is cooler and the gears are much hotter.

John and I discussed synthetic several times. He related that Currie had nothing against synthetics they just couldn't find one that did what they needed it to do.

The only way I can see it happening is if the synthetic oil itself is somehow degrading due to the heat (which somehow does not happen to conventional to the same extent) during the initial break in, and thus does not have the thermal conductivity it is supposed to have. But I would have to guess that the gears have to be getting VERY hot for that to happen.
 
Lots of industry people used to think that too but they no longer do. Buyers of aftermarket axles and gears started having lots of aftermarket ring & pinion failures and companies like Currie and Dynatrac were losing a lot of $$$ replacing them. They then tracked the failures down to the customers who had filled the axles up with synthetic gear lubes. That confused the hell out of everyone.


They started running tests to figure out what was happening. IR guns were showing the pumpkins filled with synthetic gear lubes were running at lower temperatures than axles filled with conventional gear lubes which confused them even more. Probes placed in the synthetic gear lube confirmed it was operating at lower temperatures. It just wasn't making any sense.

They then built a special test jig so they could directly measure the temperature of the new aftermarket ring & pinion gears themselves while lubed with synthetic then conventional gear lubes. Those tests confirmed the R&P gears lubricated with a synthetic were running significantly hotter and the reason the synthetic gear lube was not nearly as effective at sinking/extracting the heat out of the gears as conventional gear lubes were. It shocked the industry experts.

Companies like Currie and Dynatrac then changed their warranties to require only the use of conventional gear lubes and placed tags on the axles indicating that only conventional gear lubes should be used. That stopped the excessive R&P failures. All this happened probably 15+ years ago and I heard about it personally from John Currie.

And when you bring up the fact that many new car axles, maybe even Jeep now I don't know, come pre-filled with synthetic gear lubes yes that is true. And the reason those new R&P gears don't fail is because all R&P gears new car and Jeep manufacturers install are pre-lapped by the gear manufacturers like Dana-Spicer. Pre-lapped means they don't need to be broken in, they went through a break-in/lapping process as a matched pair before being shipped to the car manufacturer and are ready to go as-is.

Aftermarket gears are not pre-lapped and require a careful breaking in process and anything to minimize the heat generated during the break-in process will help them survive that process. The use of conventional gear lube during that critical time is an important part of the break-in process that helps significantly.

Is it possible to install aftermarket gears and use a synthetic during the break-in? Of course, but that places a huge amount of extra care and time required to ensure the gears never get hot enough to damage them during the break-in which is a lot more difficult. I personally had a set of new R&P gears go bad from having used a synthetic gear lube during the break-in. And I took great care during the break-in process to do as advised, I was very careful yet they still got too hot. When the gears went bad and I went to have them replaced, the gear expert I used pulled the gears out and after looking at them said I had "burned them up" and then said 'you used a synthetic gear lube didn't you'. He also confirmed their setup was fine and not the reason for the problem. I learned a huge lesson from that and I do my best to let others know about the recommended use of a conventional gear lube for breaking new gears in so others don't burn their gears up like I did.

Interestingly I ended up on Bob is the Oil Guy and they will tell this is internet folklore because Currie and other companies would not share their testing data with them and that there is no way that synthetic oil is the cause of failure. What is being ignored to some extent is that after Ford retired the 9inch in 1985 the GL-6 oils they preferred were soon retired as well. This was also when synthetics were first coming onto the scene and since there was no call for GL-6 they just made GL-5. GL-5 does not have all the same additives that GL-6 did which are necessary for preventing gear scoring like in high offset pinions ala the 9. These same additives are also beneficial when running very low gears in diffs like the Toy 8inch, 14bolt and others where the pinion has more of a tendency to slide across the ring gear.
 
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