Warn M8000 Refresh

PRNDL

PRNDL

guess we'll never know
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Location
North Texas
Found a used Warn M8000 locally.
001_m8000.jpg
001_m8000.jpg

m8000

001_m8000.jpg


Its in decent shape but needs a few things. Here’s what I know so far:
  • Missing ground screw (M8 x 1.25 x 12mm)
  • Missing ground lead (2 guage, 72in) - Spartan Power
  • Winch line is kinked and I want to run synthetic
    • 3/8", 85ft probably TRE unless Blaine has some ready to go
    • Safety Thimble - WRG
    • ST fairlead - WRG
  • Winch free spools fine, but the lever is very difficult to turn. I’ll crack the gearbox and see where its getting hung up.
  • Mounting hardware
    • Square nuts (3/8-16)
    • Washers (3/8)
    • Bolts (3/8-16 x 1 1/4”)
  • One of the contactor plug pins is bent. The plug wont insert all the way in. Winch works, but I’m going to see if I can fix the pin.
  • General clean up, grease and paint
  • Decal for the side of the contactor pack because vanity
Is there a specific grade I need to get for the mounting square nuts? Stainless? Zinc?

For the clutch lever stiffness, what should I be looking for when I open the gear box?

Any tips for straightening/correcting the bent contactor pin?
001_motor.jpg


001_ground.jpg


001_plug.jpg


001_wire.jpg


001_contactor.jpg
 
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The engagement lever on the used 8000 I bought was almost impossible to turn, pulled the lever and wiped everything down and gave it a smear of grease and now it works super smooth
 
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voodooridr said:
The engagement lever on the used 8000 I bought was almost impossible to turn, pulled the lever and wiped everything down and gave it a smear of grease and now it works super smooth
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll give that a go before full disassembly.
 
Nice find. x2 to what Modoc said. A tapered awl, nail punch, or similar and be patient so you don't open the contact too far. Just finished a rebuild with Blackjacks help and it's a fun project.
 
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PRNDL said:
Found a used Warn M8000 locally.
001_m8000.jpg
001_m8000.jpg

m8000

View attachment 413316

Its in decent shape but needs a few things. Here’s what I know so far:
  • Missing ground screw (M8 x 1.25 x 12mm)
  • Missing ground lead (2 guage, 72in) - Spartan Power
  • Winch line is kinked and I want to run synthetic
    • 3/8", 85ft probably TRE unless Blaine has some ready to go
    • Safety Thimble - WRG
    • ST fairlead - WRG
  • Winch free spools fine, but the lever is very difficult to turn. I’ll crack the gearbox and see where its getting hung up.
  • Mounting hardware
    • Square nuts (3/8-16)
    • Washers (3/8)
    • Bolts (3/8-16 x 1 1/4”)
  • One of the contactor plug pins is bent. The plug wont insert all the way in. Winch works, but I’m going to see if I can fix the pin.
  • General clean up, grease and paint
  • Decal for the side of the contactor pack because vanity
Is there a specific grade I need to get for the mounting square nuts? Stainless? Zinc?

For the clutch lever stiffness, what should I be looking for when I open the gear box?

Any tips for straightening/correcting the bent contactor pin?
View attachment 413317

View attachment 413318

View attachment 413319

View attachment 413320

View attachment 413321
Click to expand...

If you want to seal the motor one of my motor snorkle kits covers the the missing ground bolt or I can even dig up a plain one for you. That bent pin in the pack is going to be a pain but I think I can depin a plug I have if you want a good pin.

The clutch knob oring could be dry or the gear box needs a good clean and grease. Warn uses Philips Moly Low Temp #1 but any quality #1 grease with 5% moly will get the job done. There should be a fair amount of grease but not packed to the gunnels.

So the square nuts and bolts and lock washers should be grade 5.

If you run into anything else ask away.
 
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Blackjack said:
If you want to seal the motor one of my motor snorkle kits covers the the missing ground bolt or I can even dig up a plain one for you. That bent pin in the pack is going to be a pain but I think I can depin a plug I have if you want a good pin.

The clutch knob oring could be dry or the gear box needs a good clean and grease. Warn uses Philips Moly Low Temp #1 but any quality #1 grease with 5% moly will get the job done. There should be a fair amount of grease but not packed to the gunnels.

So the square nuts and bolts and lock washers should be grade 5.

If you run into anything else ask away.
Click to expand...

I'll PM you about the snorkel kit. I remember @JMT used one on his.

If it's not too much trouble, I'd like to replace the pin. I messed with it a bit yesterday and was able to round it back out, but it looks like there's a piece of it wedged in there. The plug still will not fully engage.

Any reason to go bigger than 2awg wire for the ground/+12v lead?

I should be able to disassemble the rest of it today.
 
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PRNDL said:
I'll PM you about the snorkel kit. I remember @JMT used one on his.

If it's not too much trouble, I'd like to replace the pin. I messed with it a bit yesterday and was able to round it back out, but it looks like there's a piece of it wedged in there. The plug still will not fully engage.

Any reason to go bigger than 2awg wire for the ground/+12v lead?

I should be able to disassemble the rest of it today.
Click to expand...

Let me see about digging up a pin and I will message you. 2awg is fine for an M8.
 
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Blackjack said:
That solenoid looks ok and I would do that and build my own versus buying a kit.
Click to expand...

I concur! I actually used two 200A solenoids in parallel. The reason for doing so was for fail-safe capability. Most pulls will be under 200A, so I can have one solenoid fail and still be able to do a reasonable pull with the other. I don't think I'd do it that way again because the extra solenoid and the bulky conductors take up much more valuable under-hood real-estate than I expected, and it's pretty easy to bypass the solenoid altogether if it fails. Semper discens!
 
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If you want to seal the motor one of my motor snorkle kits covers the the missing ground bolt or I can even dig up a plain one for you.
Click to expand...
Where can I get information about a snorkel kit for a Warn winch?
 
Some corrosion and evidence of water on the bottom side of the motor. Overall, it looks ok and I think will clean up well.

Communicator is a bit dirty. Armature looks good. Stators are clean. Bearing spins freely.

See anything I might be missing?
003_cap01.jpg


003_brushcontact.jpg


003_brushcontact02.jpg


003_brushplate.jpg


003_brushes.jpg


003_motor.jpg


003_inside01.jpg


003_inside02.jpg
 
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PRNDL said:
Some corrosion and evidence of water on the bottom side of the motor. Overall, it looks ok and I think will clean up well.

Communicator is a bit dirty. Armature looks good. Stators are clean. Bearing spins freely.

See anything I might be missing?
View attachment 413511

View attachment 413512

View attachment 413513

View attachment 413514

View attachment 413516

View attachment 413518

View attachment 413519

View attachment 413520
Click to expand...

Nothing a little electrical parts cleaner will not take care of. Brushes look like that this thing spent most of its life being an ornament.
 
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Mounting hardware ordered.
Ground cable ordered.
Grease ordered.

Gearsets look good. Backing off the clutch lever detent screw loosened it enough to move freely. I didn't see anything suspect on the clutch ring or gear housing that looked like it was binding. Plenty of grease too.

004_gear1.jpg


004_gear2.jpg


004_gear3.jpg


004_gear4.jpg
 
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