I am new to the wrangler world (about a year) and I’ve come to my first real decision regarding my Jeep. When I bought my Jeep most of what I would have wanted done was already done but a few weeks ago I found a broken front spring and went to replace it knowing only what I could see and not having any real experience wrenching on the vehicle I bought a 5.5” spring set front and rear and put them on but now it sits about 2-3” higher. After some more research I’ve come to believe my shocks are about 3” lift and the springs were stock with spacers now my concern is that if I keep going upgrading to 5.5” lift shocks I will keep having to get something else because of the lift and another question is do I need a driveshaft or is it worth playing with fire for a year because I keep getting a random flashing Engine Light as I’m driving but doesn’t stay on long. Bottom line should I cut my losses and go to a 3” lift spring or keep risking it
What all is involved in a 6” lift?
- Thread starter T.K.
- Start date
6" is too much lift for a TJ, plain and simple.
The majority of TJs you'll see out there are running a 4" lift with a 1" body lift, so about 5" of lift total.
When you want to run 37s, you may think you need more lift, but the answer can be found without adding any additional lift and instead doing a highline conversion, as well as moving the rear fender flares up more in the body (which involves cutting). @toximus has some good info (and tons of pictures) on this in his thread.
I don't know what size tire you're planning to run, but get rid of that 6" lift and put a 4" suspension lift on there and 1" body lift if you're trying to clear 35s.
I can't see any reason one would want to run a 6" suspension lift unless you were trying to run some absurdly large tire or something such as 42s, but at that point you're going to be on really wide axles and your not even going to be dealing with fenders anymore at all.
The majority of TJs you'll see out there are running a 4" lift with a 1" body lift, so about 5" of lift total.
When you want to run 37s, you may think you need more lift, but the answer can be found without adding any additional lift and instead doing a highline conversion, as well as moving the rear fender flares up more in the body (which involves cutting). @toximus has some good info (and tons of pictures) on this in his thread.
I don't know what size tire you're planning to run, but get rid of that 6" lift and put a 4" suspension lift on there and 1" body lift if you're trying to clear 35s.
I can't see any reason one would want to run a 6" suspension lift unless you were trying to run some absurdly large tire or something such as 42s, but at that point you're going to be on really wide axles and your not even going to be dealing with fenders anymore at all.
Oh yeah, for 35s the ideal setup is a 4" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. That's pretty much the universally accepted way to run 35s on a TJ / LJ.
So now I’m curious I have rubicon express shocks they’re white and according to the local 4wheel parts dealer they are not that color and part of the reason I’m in my pickle
89grand
TJ Addict
Well, as mentioned, a 6" suspension lift is way too much. Also Rubicon Express shocks suck ass no matter what color they are. When I got my Jeep back in 08, it had the silver cheap RE shocks and they were absolutely horrible.
They were so bad, that my next shocks, Skyjacker Hydro 7000's seemed good. Of course those suck too compared to my Rancho RS5000x shocks I put on recently.
They were so bad, that my next shocks, Skyjacker Hydro 7000's seemed good. Of course those suck too compared to my Rancho RS5000x shocks I put on recently.
It can be done but it's not cheap nor easy:
https://metalcloak.com/jeep-tj-lj-w...long-arm-suspension-system-6-pak-edition.html
https://metalcloak.com/jeep-tj-lj-w...long-arm-suspension-system-6-pak-edition.html
I wouldn't recommend that Metalcloak "Lock-n-Load" lift ever. That thing is a poorly designed piece of shit.
I didn't know much about it until I had read some of the other threads that explain in depth why it is such a horrible lift, but after reading them, I'd never recommend it in a million years. The radius arms, the gimmick "lock-n-load" marketing, etc.
Do some reading on it and you'll never, ever want to encourage anyone to run it
Good to know. I've seen it but never really looked into it.I wouldn't recommend that Metalcloak "Lock-n-Load" lift ever. That thing is a poorly designed piece of shit.
I didn't know much about it until I had read some of the other threads that explain in depth why it is such a horrible lift, but after reading them, I'd never recommend it in a million years. The radius arms, the gimmick "lock-n-load" marketing, etc.
Do some reading on it and you'll never, ever want to encourage anyone to run it
Yes, same here. I didn't know much until I looked into it. Can't remember the thread, but there is one on here where Blaine and others got into a really technical discussion on why it is a horrible lift. Anyways, after reading that, all I could ever do is warn people to steer clear of it.
One thing is for sure though, with a 6" lift, to do it right, you are going to need to do some serious cutting and fabrication. You'd also want to extend the wheelbase as well (unless it's an LJ).
There is no magic in the Metalcloak or any other long arm kit beyond them attaching a lift number and marketing to it.
First you need to figure out why you want a 6" spring lift. Much of that reasoning begins with the tire size. The tire size will be what determines the vast majority of the build.
First you need to figure out why you want a 6" spring lift. Much of that reasoning begins with the tire size. The tire size will be what determines the vast majority of the build.
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Horrible may be an exaggeration. From what I understand, the MC long arm is very similar in fundamental design to the Rough Country and Rubicon Express long arms with some additional gimmicks.
The criticisms come from understanding why the idea of long arms and why a 6" lift are both questionable things in the first place.
And to circle back to what Blaine (and probably you as well) had said in that other thread: There is simply no bolt-on "long arm" lift that is any good, plain and simple. It can't be done, as there is no way to package it in a "bolt-on" manner and have the geometry be correct.
The way I understand how things work and want them to work, if I felt the need for a 6" spring lift on a TJ it wouldn't be accomplished specifically through a kit.
Thanks for the info I’m good on the conversation and as I was afraid it would not be a simple 1 or 2 more parts to finish and enjoy so I’ll have to do what I expected I’d have to and eat the costs but the end result is the best thing for me and I’ll keep it simple I just want a Jeep that I can enjoy driving anywhere so it’s going to be three to four inches lift as it was intended to be. Always good to get info from people more familiar than you when questions come up