What did the previous owner do?

SouthernLJ

SouthernLJ

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 13, 2022
Messages
190
Location
South GA
Please bear with me as I'm not mechanically inclined and a lot of this is new to me.

I have a 06 LJ, 4.0, auto on 33's on an unknown lift. I assume it's a 4 inch lift, and I do not know the brand. I do know that after I put a bumper and winch on, the front sagged noticeably and now I have quite a rake.

I'd like to know what the previous owner has done my jeep, and why. After that, if it's wrong, and I suspect somethings are, I'd like to start correcting and upgrading things with quality parts. The end goal would to be a medium-duty Jeep that will eventually run 35s. I don't give it hell at all, but I'd rather be overbuilt than under. I'm currently on 33s and bigger tires would probably be the very last thing that was done. (right)

Transfer case drop.

I noticed that the transfer case skid was lowered. For a while I thought this was normal until I saw someone elses. Is this necessary? It's pretty hangy downy and I'd rather it not be that way. I assume this was done to prevent driveline vibrations? Would this require an SYE to remedy? I thought I had read that LJ's didn't need SYE's but maybe I'm misremembering.

skid.jpg


Does this look right?

tcase.jpg



Is this a MML?

motormount.jpg





Dropped pitman arm

This is a dropped Pitman arm, correct? It also looks like the stock mount for the track bar. Looking straight ahead, the track bar and drag link are parallel. The steering wheel is centered, the jeep tracks straight, and when I hit bumps, it doesn't want to jerk the wheel or want to go left or right, it pretty much stays straight. Does any of this need to be changed? Thought about getting a heavier duty tie rod since I read it was recommended for 35s which will eventually be put on.

pittman.jpg


pitmann2.jpg


(Yes, I know my steering stabilizer is faded and pink)

left.jpg




If anything else looks out of wack, please let me know, because I can assure you I probably don't realize it.


Oh, and one of the first things I'd like to do is improve the ride quality and fix the front rake. I know of some Currie 4" springs that are about to come available. I was thinking about getting those and some new shocks. Seems like the Rancho RS5000X's are popular.

Thanks.
 
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CharlesHS said:
While Currie springs are a good choice; installing 4" springs on a stock suspension will require a lot more than just installing springs and shock absorbers.
Adjustable control arms, adjustable trac bars front and rear, SYE, longer brake lines are to name just a few parts that should be included.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was under the assumption that I was already at 4". I don't know if you can tell by a picture, but here it is..

lift.jpg
 
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There’s a thread that will tell you how to determine your lift height. Just do a quick search on “how to measure lift” and it should pop right up.
 
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A lot of lifts (probably/especially? the cheaper ones) come with skid lowering/TC drop in order to attempt to preserve a workable rear driveshaft angle. To me, dropping the skid counteracts the lift, but I get that it's much cheaper than an SYE, driveshaft, adjustable arms especially if clearance isn't a concern at the mall. Anyway, if you want to remove the drop you may find that your driveshaft angle is too steep and you get vibrations. I say might because seems like every jeep is different and an LJ might be long enough that 4" of lift keeps the driveline angle in an ok range...only you will know for sure and only after it's too late.

TL;DR - TC drop is relatively common, and not necessarily bad. The steps you'll need to take to remove it are also common but will cost you close to $1k at a minimum.
 
SouthernLJ said:
Please bear with me as I'm not mechanically inclined and a lot of this is new to me.

I have a 06 LJ, 4.0, auto on 33's on an unknown lift. I assume it's a 4 inch lift, and I do not know the brand. I do know that after I put a bumper and winch on, the front sagged noticeably and now I have quite a rake.

I'd like to know what the previous owner has done my jeep, and why. After that, if it's wrong, and I suspect somethings are, I'd like to start correcting and upgrading things with quality parts. The end goal would to be a medium-duty Jeep that will eventually run 35s. I don't give it hell at all, but I'd rather be overbuilt than under. I'm currently on 33s and bigger tires would probably be the very last thing that was done. (right)

Transfer case drop.

I noticed that the transfer case skid was lowered. For a while I thought this was normal until I saw someone elses. Is this necessary? It's pretty hangy downy and I'd rather it not be that way. I assume this was done to prevent driveline vibrations? Would this require an SYE to remedy? I thought I had read that LJ's didn't need SYE's but maybe I'm misremembering.

View attachment 308481

Does this look right?

View attachment 308482


Is this a MML?

View attachment 308483




Dropped pitman arm

This is a dropped Pitman arm, correct? It also looks like the stock mount for the track bar. Looking straight ahead, the track bar and drag link are parallel. The steering wheel is centered, the jeep tracks straight, and when I hit bumps, it doesn't want to jerk the wheel or want to go left or right, it pretty much stays straight. Does any of this need to be changed? Thought about getting a heavier duty tie rod since I read it was recommended for 35s which will eventually be put on.

View attachment 308484

View attachment 308485

(Yes, I know my steering stabilizer is faded and pink)

View attachment 308486



If anything else looks out of wack, please let me know, because I can assure you I probably don't realize it.


Oh, and one of the first things I'd like to do is improve the ride quality and fix the front rake. I know of some Currie 4" springs that are about to come available. I was thinking about getting those and some new shocks. Seems like the Rancho RS5000X's are popular.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The dropped pitman arm causes problems down the road. When using one it should be paired with a drop TB bracket as well. There is no need for a dropped pitman arm whatsoever. Go back to stock once you start having problems.

I think it was 2” lifts for LJ that don’t need a SYE. My guess is it’s a 4” lift since it was a transfer case drop and yes they installed a TC drop to help the pinion angle and vibrations. With a SYE which is the proper set up you remove the TC drop and install a sye with a double cardan drive shaft. Jb conversions super short sye is a popular kit on the forum one because you can get a longer driveshaft than with other SYE and helps with a tummy tuck if you plan to do so. You can go with a Tom wood or Adams driveshaft most like Tom wood.

Ride quality is determined by shocks not Springs. Get the ranchos.

Don’t go cheap on the jeep or you’ll be buying parts twice.
Buy once cry once.
 
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I ran 4” Currie lift on my LJ with 33s, no SYE, and no t-case drop without issue. I was still fine when I added the 1” MML and after moving to 35s. Maybe without adjustable control arms it is an issue? Depends if you are planning other mods or new lift in near future but I would probably try removing it see if develop vibration.

It comes down to $ but if you are wanting to do it right from start I would look at the Savvy lift to get double adjustable control arms all around. You might be able to try use some of current lift components but if springs are sagging and it came with drop pitman/t-case drop might be best to start fresh. Just be warned once you start down the rabbit hole is no going back 😉
 
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Thanks for the replies.

Here is my thought process on upgrades.. address immediate needs first. For my use case, which is smoothing out the ride to the mall. The jeep rides smooth on pavement, except for RR track crossings, pot holes, speedbumps, frogs, small pebbles, honey bun wrappers, etc. To me, it feels like shocks are way too stiff or shot. I also hate the rake when I finally pull into parking spot at the mall.

So I'm thinking about getting the Currie 4" springs. I'll measure mine later today and if I'm already at 4" of lift, I should be able to install these and not have a requirement to change anything else. They're slightly used and I'm pretty sure I can get them a very good price. I'm thinking this will help lift my front end back up, and while I'm working on it, I can put a puck in to help level everything out. While I'm doing that, I'll replace the current unknown shocks with the Rancho's.

The next set up upgrades is where it get's a little fuzzy as to what order to do it in. I pay off my Jeep next month and while have some extra cash to throw at it, but even then, most of this will be spread out in stages.

  • Replace tie rod and drag link with RockJock Currectlync or similar quality part.
  • Replace track bar with a beefier, adjustable one. (Should these 2 steps be done at the same time? If so, sounds like a good time to delete the drop pitman arm.)
  • JKS Quicker Disconnects. This Jeep will see 95% of it's life on pavement for the time being and I don't see the need to invest in a Antirock or Teraflex sway bars. I don't have a problem hoping out and disconnecting the sway bars if needed.
  • Adjustable control arms?
  • ?
  • ?
  • Way down the list regear to 5.13s, install an Eaton E-Locker in the rear Dana44, and get some 35's (I'm not even concerned about this right now because it's so far down the line.
Is this order do-able, am I missing anything. Again, medium-duty, It's mostly flat for hours in any direction from where I live. I want to eventually run 35's, but want to be beefy enough that I really have to try hard to break something.
 
IF your Jeep will be doing rock crawling in GA; then I would go with the HD parts as listed below.
When you list the adjustable control arms; I would go with JKS, Currie or Saavy.
As for replacing the tracbar, I would suggest JKS, Currie or Saavy again....
The Currie Correctlync is a good choice; that is what I installed in my last two Jeeps.
The order of preference would be steering, control arms and tracbar. Depending upon how much money you have available will probably dictate whether you can do all the CAs at the same time or both tracbars.
You are probably looking at $1700 minimum to install these parts IF you do it all yourself.
Due to the limitations of parts availability; the order of your list may vary a little.
 
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CharlesHS said:
IF your Jeep will be doing rock crawling in GA; then I would go with the HD parts as listed below.
When you list the adjustable control arms; I would go with JKS, Currie or Saavy.
As for replacing the tracbar, I would suggest JKS, Currie or Saavy again....
The Currie Correctlync is a good choice; that is what I installed in my last two Jeeps.
The order of preference would be steering, control arms and tracbar. Depending upon how much money you have available will probably dictate whether you can do all the CAs at the same time or both tracbars.
You are probably looking at $1700 minimum to install these parts IF you do it all yourself.
Due to the limitations of parts availability; the order of your list may vary a little.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I won't be rock crawling, really. I'm on the Georgia Florida line (That band sucks!) and there isn't anything nearby and also this is my daily driver. I guess I just want the capability to do some mild off-roading here and there. Maybe I get the fever and find out my ride is capable and start traveling more to do jeep stuff.
 
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SouthernLJ said:
Thanks! I won't be rock crawling, really. I'm on the Georgia Florida line (That band sucks!) and there isn't anything nearby and also this is my daily driver. I guess I just want the capability to do some mild off-roading here and there. Maybe I get the fever and find out my ride is capable and start traveling more to do jeep stuff.
Click to expand...
It too am on the Florida/Georgia line and the only resemblance of rock crawling in my area would be Hard Rock, but that is primarily mud, steep hills with some rocks.
 
CharlesHS said:
It too am on the Florida/Georgia line and the only resemblance of rock crawling in my area would be Hard Rock, but that is primarily mud, steep hills with some rocks.
Click to expand...

I was on the way there last year and the one of those brutal FL thunderstorms came up. Bottom fell out 10 minutes before I got there. We left Ginnie Springs with a clear sky and by the time we got to Ocala, it was pointless. Skipped it and stayed in Gainesville. That was going to be the first time I did anything jeepy other than riding trails along the river in south GA.
 
SouthernLJ said:
I was on the way there last year and the one of those brutal FL thunderstorms came up. Bottom fell out 10 minutes before I got there. We left Ginnie Springs with a clear sky and by the time we got to Ocala, it was pointless. Skipped it and stayed in Gainesville. That was going to be the first time I did anything jeepy other than riding trails along the river in south GA.
Click to expand...
Oh... I do understand...
I have gone from clear blue skies to clouds, drizzle then rain so heavy it looked like driving thru a FOG bank where even having the windshield wipers on fast; didn't help.
 
Start watching here and more importantly on FB marketplace and groups for parts. I’ve picked up a number of items that way.

I would try removing the t-case drop.

Pick up a stock pitman arm and do that at same time as Currectlync.

Unless you are in need of tires don’t be in rush for 35s. Stock gearing isn’t great with my manual and is said to be much worse with the auto. Besides you can’t get gears or install kits right now anyway (ordered mine in Nov still no ship date).
 
sourbluff said:
Start watching here and more importantly on FB marketplace and groups for parts. I’ve picked up a number of items that way.

I would try removing the t-case drop.

Pick up a stock pitman arm and do that at same time as Currectlync.

Unless you are in need of tires don’t be in rush for 35s. Stock gearing isn’t great with my manual and is said to be much worse with the auto. Besides you can’t get gears or install kits right now anyway (ordered mine in Nov still no ship date).
Click to expand...

Good call.

35s are very last on the list. I still have some miles on 33s and I would re-gear to 5.13 and ride the 33s until they are completely used up before I went to 35s.
 
I think I can stay on topic & ask a question here..
My Jeep came from a forum member that told me he followed Jerry B’s reccs almost exclusively. I’m on a Currie 4”, done correctly with most of the parts mentioned in this thread.
However, the shocks are Bilstein 5100s. I don’t think I need new shocks but the feel of the Jeep around corners and changing lanes is very loose. The Jeep dives, rolls, all the things. It’s hot to be flexing going around corners.
I used to run RS5000X on my last Jeep with ProComp springs, I really really liked that ride! One big difference is this current Jeep has Currie AntiRok.
Does anyone with experience think Ranchos RS55241 & RS55239 would work with the Currie 4” and maybe handle better too?
 
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Jack72 said:
There’s a thread that will tell you how to determine your lift height. Just do a quick search on “how to measure lift” and it should pop right up.
Click to expand...

My rear springs are 12" and the fronts are roughly 14.5"

tj-coil-spring-measurements-jpg.jpg


Sounds like I can get the 4" springs and new shocks and be good for now.

I'll level this thing riding smoother and things leveled out, then focus on the CorrectLync and drop pitman delete. From what I'm gathering, I can remove the drop pitman arm, install the CorrectLync, and adjust the drag link on the fly without having to detach anything. Neat.
 
Or... Should I go with sway bar disconnects (or save for antirock) and have an instant capaibility upgrade?

On 33's, with steering that's already fine, which route would you ( by you, I mean anyone) go?
 
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