What did you do to your TJ today?

en480c4 said:
Today I gots few coats of paint on the plate, got the JK plate on it and got the winch mounted. Then I got it on the Jeep, got everything wired with new cables and got the synthetic line spooled (though I will have to respool).

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It’s ridiculous. It’s excessive. But I’ve always wanted one, so it’s perfect.
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That is *QUITE* the plate!!
 
Blackout said:
Today I attempted to bleed the slave cylinder system and realized my set up is missing the bleeder screw. I am now searching through some forums to find the part. Mine does have the threading for the bleeder screw shown in this video. Mine is definitely not the OEM one which is sealed from factory. This is a fun rabbit hole I have found myself falling into.


This is the part I am now looking for:
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Why not spend $85 and buy a LUK complete sealed unit like it came with?
 
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DaveF said:
Took her out for a drive and photo op with another Khaki LJ :)

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I'm the one on top... just sayin.... :D
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I saw another khaki LJ right outside my place this week. First one I’ve seen on the road. As I passed him to give the wave, I noticed he was too busy taking pics of mine with his phone hahaha
 
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Gavidoc said:
Finished installing the automatic door locks today. As I was doing it I set them up so that I can use both my half doors and full doors and have the locks work by installing a 2nd set in the half doors.

Used standard water resistant automotive plugs. While I was making the wiring harnesses for the full doors I also added in the wiring for if I ever decide to do power windows as I will have the controls in the center dash like on my JT so will only need the 2 wires running to each door. By doing it this way, it also allows me to use the same plug types for the half doors even though they won't have the harness for the windows.

For the receiver I mounted that under the dash and soldered on additional wire to the antenna and ran that up to the top of the dash right in front of the steering wheel so I didn't have any blockage on the signal. I'm able to unlock the doors from almost 100ft now.

Last thing to install will be some door straps for a JL/JT as they have the sleeve for the wiring harness integrated into them. Ordered them from my dealer and just waiting on them to arrive to replace the current door straps.

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Gavidoc said:
Finished installing the automatic door locks today. As I was doing it I set them up so that I can use both my half doors and full doors and have the locks work by installing a 2nd set in the half doors.

Used standard water resistant automotive plugs. While I was making the wiring harnesses for the full doors I also added in the wiring for if I ever decide to do power windows as I will have the controls in the center dash like on my JT so will only need the 2 wires running to each door. By doing it this way, it also allows me to use the same plug types for the half doors even though they won't have the harness for the windows.

For the receiver I mounted that under the dash and soldered on additional wire to the antenna and ran that up to the top of the dash right in front of the steering wheel so I didn't have any blockage on the signal. I'm able to unlock the doors from almost 100ft now.

Last thing to install will be some door straps for a JL/JT as they have the sleeve for the wiring harness integrated into them. Ordered them from my dealer and just waiting on them to arrive to replace the current door straps.

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Hi Gavidoc,

What year is your TJ? I'd like to install power locks in my 98, is there a kit available? Did you look into using wireless connectors https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-10631 ?

Thanks,
Rich
 
On a previous post I talked about removing the swing out tire carrier and showed what I did to strengthen the tailgate and hinges. Yesterday the bumper got finished. The CB antenna will be moving to the front.

Here is what was removed, 42 pounds and a hassle for using the back for storage.
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cleaned up the bumper and gave it a shot of paint. Looks much cleaner and makes the rear more accessible.
1FlxGCch.jpg
 
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I previously removed a trans/engine skid plate that the previous owner had installed. The whole thing was made from 3/16 steel plate with a lot of reinforcement bracing. Unfortunately it was poorly designed as I saw where the front driveshaft had rubbed on it. I was going to put a half inch drop to eliminate the rub. When I loosened the bolts the front axle kept coming down. I discovered that the skid plate was stopping the axle from going to full droop by 2 inches. THAT skid plate is now in our recycled bin. Weight saving 56 pounds. Will look into making a new one out of aluminum. Sorry no pics of offending POS.
 
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It's not so much what I did today but it's more like what I have done for the last 3 years.

Bought a 2000 Wrangler Sarah Back in 2017 with 86000 miles.
Came with a 4 in pro comp lift.
Arb front bumper with a Warn 9.5ti winch. 33 in tires. Tailgate mounted tire carrier.

I put a frameless top on it first ,due to the top on it was warn out.
I put zone shocks on it, that was before I found out about this forum and the rancho shocks that ya'll highly recommend.

Drove it for a year then found this forum and started to research and ask some questions to figure out what I wanted to do.

So with that being said, I have put new adjustable control arms from Core 4x4, Zj steering upgrade.
Just now finished a super 35 with an Eaton e locker and regeared to 4.56 ratio and Zj disk disk brake conversion. Went with the black magic brake pads for up front and let me tell you those things work great as most of you know.

Last year I overhauled the Dana 30
with upgraded axle shafts from Ten factory.
Now I have to regear the Dana 30.
Last year I didn't know I would regear or want some kind of lockers.
Also going to add an Aussie locker to the Dana 30

Most of the time I just drive back road and some gravel roads but I'm ready to get into some more aggressive off-roading.

I'm not one for taking pictures of my progress or my projects here's about the only picture I have of my Jeep

Thanks to all you knowledgeable people on this forum. It's really helped me out a lot and this is a great forum.

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BlackSheep said:
I'm adapting a set of seats from a 2011 Ford Mustang. The driver seat is fitted and I hope to finish up fitting the passenger seat today. Once they're both fitted, I have to remove them so I can clean up and paint the brackets and adapter plates.

I had previously pulled a set of seat brackets from a '97-'02 TJ from the local pick-n-pull, mine is an '04. The seat bases are different 1st gen to 2nd gen TJ and the fold and tumble for the passenger seat is quite different. I'm actually very glad I have the '97-'02 because of the fold and tumble difference. With that 1st gen base, I can reach under the seat and trip the lever to allow the seat to tumble. If I had used the '04 base, I would have had to adapt a way to connect the cable to the Mustang seat. The '97-'02 base is just a simpler design and much easier to adapt.

One big thing I like about the driver seat is the height adjustment. The large lever towards the front of the seat adjusts the height. Being on the shorter side, this is beneficial for me.
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I adapted a set of seats from a Chrysler into my previous '01 TJ and I know the effort it takes to make it all work. Nicely done! That 'stang seat looks sweet in there!
 
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98TxTJ said:
Replaced my fuel pump. Again. Delphi. Lasted about 18 months. Went with a Delphi. Again.

Before this becomes an indictment of the Delphi pumps, I need to point out a few things.

It was one of the check valves failing. The pump was still working, I just had long crank syndrome. It was likely the one in the regulator on top of the pump, which is replaceable, but once you go that far to get to it...​
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The last time I did not drain the tank and make sure it was clean. This time I completely emptied the tank and wiped it out thoroughly. There was a fair amount of gritty sediment in there — not excessive, but noticeable. BTW, Delphi states that 21% of the fuel pumps returned for warranty failed because the tank wasn't cleaned sufficiently before installation.​
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The filter at the foot of the pump was not attached when I pulled out the old pump. There's no way to tell when it came off, but that means the fuel intake on the pump was an open port to grit that would keep a check valve from operating correctly. Since I began having the long crank rather suddenly after a pretty bumpy off-road session, maybe it was knocked loose then.​
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In other news, last week my driver's seat seemed to get "loose" and making squeeching (louder than a squeak, not quite a screech) sounds. Turns out the left front hole in the seat frame for the stud that attaches the slide/tilt bracket had fatigued and broken out entirely. There was no support at that corner for any up or down movement, and the metal edges were making the sounds as they rubbed together.

It ought to be welded, but I don't, and didn't have ready access to a couple of friends that do. So instead I cut a piece of scrap steel the same width as the inner lip of the seat frame that would extend well beyond the break in each direction front to back. It's effectively a large washer that now acts as a clamp. I left the broken piece in as gap filler (and so I wouldn't lose it.)

Time will tell, but it's working great now — seat is solid and no noise — so until I can get it welded, or replace the seat or maybe forever, it will do.

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I'd have it welded ASAP for sure. Those cracks will just keep on going until they split that piece in half. But, good fix for now and, actually, welding that plate into place would be what I'd go for.
 
TJ Hunnicutt said:
I adapted a set of seats from a Chrysler into my previous '01 TJ and I know the effort it takes to make it all work. Nicely done! That 'stang seat looks sweet in there!
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Thanks. Got the adapter plates painted, the TJ brackets cleaned up and everything bolted back in. They are MUCH more comfortable than the factory seats.
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Blackout said:
Today I attempted to bleed the slave cylinder system and realized my set up is missing the bleeder screw. I am now searching through some forums to find the part. Mine does have the threading for the bleeder screw shown in this video. Mine is definitely not the OEM one which is sealed from factory. This is a fun rabbit hole I have found myself falling into.


This is the part I am now looking for:
View attachment 195657
Click to expand...
Careful, my man. A lot of the aftermarket systems are also sealed and do not "require bleeding". I'm recalling a video from "I am Jake" where he destroyed a brand new master/slave combo trying to bleed it.
 
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TheBoogieman said:
Sounds like a fun time. Those red lights look out of place on your silver Jeep. You should get some black ones and send me those ugly ones.;)

p.s. Love the skeleton. All I have left of mine is it's head.View attachment 195975
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Lol I’m gonna paint the fairlead once I have a good reason to take the line off the winch! Plan to repaint bumper this winter and will do it then! Love your Jeep!
 
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