What did you do to your TJ today?

Andy-WhiteTJ said:
I need those too. How well do they conform to the windshield frame? The radius changes from bottom to top. I haven't seem a photo of them mounted.
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Yeah I was curious about this too. They are a 2 part design with a TIG weld in the middle, to conform better. I will take a finishing disc and grind that down smooth.

From what I have read they fit good. Nevertheless, they will be going on lol. Way too much pu$$yfooting without them. Pic of them below (not mine).
@NashvilleTJ how do they fit? Looks good on your LJ
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LieutenantJohnson said:
Yeah I was curious about this too. They are a 2 part design with a TIG weld in the middle, to conform better. I will take a finishing disc and grind that down smooth.

From what I have read they fit good. Nevertheless, they will be going on lol. Way too much pu$$yfooting without them. Pic of them below (not mine).
@NashvilleTJ how do they fit? Looks good on your LJ
View attachment 243485
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I can't remember which brand I used (mine were all one piece) but the fit was perfect. No tweaking at all required.
 
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So the USB charger I installed a couple days ago has a voltage readout on it as well. Turns out if you mount it where the stock power socket is you can't see the voltage readout from the driver's seat. So I found a local guy with a 3D printer and had him make me a spacer for it and it works perfectly. Now I want/need a 3D printer. And I also mounted my chalk-bag-turned-water-bottle-holder to hold my yeti water bottle instead of it banging around all over the place.

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Mudflat said:
I also finally installed my fire extinguisher today. It’s only s 2 1/2 pound extinguisher , but it’s good fir A, B & C fires. It’s easily accessible, doesn’t squeak & doesn’t interfere with the seat adjustment.

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I hate to say this, but that space is reserved for my pistol and wallet...While I'm driving, that is...
 
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This really doesn’t seem like much, but I finally found & fixed a very annoying high pitched squeak in my dash. While driving, I could press down on the dash above the speedometer/tach & the squeak would stop as long as I held pressure on it. Finally, I found that if I moved my hand forward a bit, I could stick my fingertips into the gap where two plastic panels meet & the squeak would stop then as well. All I had to do was find some kind of shim to wedge into that gap that would apply enough pressure to the plastic dash panels to stop the squeak. I found a piece of clear tubing (3/8”, I think) & wedged it in place by hand. No tools required. It’s unbelievable how nice & quiet it is now without that irritating squeak.
The pics probably aren’t very good because it’s hard to get into position for a good pic that close to the windshield.
I hope this can help someone else.

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Scout734 said:
I removed the soft top and hardware, removed the back seat and cargo area carpet, and then washed the cargo area. Tomorrow I'll do some more interior cleaning and then install the Bedrug carpet in the back. I'm thinking of washing and hosing off the back seat and setting it in the sun to dry before reinstalling it. I don't think that would hurt it? I want to get the interior as clean as possible before installing the new Trektop NX.
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WOW! Look at all that beautiful clean yellow paint inside ! :D:cool:
 
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The best way to connect your negative winch lead, is to ground it to the frame as close to the winch as possible. Then have a short as possible heave duty battery to frame connection as well. This will give you a lower impedance than any cable.

Nobody does it that way. Why? Because running a dedicated negative cable is more reliable, despite having a higher impedance. Keeping high current grounds viable in a Jeep environment can be problematic. So I installed a direct negative cable...

HOWEVER - nothing says you can't do both! Then you have the best of both worlds.

323.jpg

Two negative leads connected - one direct to battery, one direct to frame.

324.jpg

Frame connection.

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Side view. Not concerned about chafing. Star washers used on both ends for good connectivity, plus I glopped the connections in an attempt to keep water out. Even if the entire thing eventually fails, the other lead going directly to the battery will still be there, and I'll enjoy the lower overall ground impedance in the meantime.

To make this truly complete, a larger than stock battery to chassis ground cable will also be installed.
 
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Zorba said:
The best way to connect your negative winch lead, is to ground it to the frame as close to the winch as possible. Then have a short as possible heave duty battery to frame connection as well. This will give you a lower impedance than any cable.

Nobody does it that way. Why? Because running a dedicated negative cable is more reliable, despite having a higher impedance. Keeping high current grounds viable in a Jeep environment can be problematic. So I installed a direct negative cable...

HOWEVER - nothing says you can't do both! Then you have the best of both worlds.

View attachment 243552
Two negative leads connected - one direct to battery, one direct to frame.

View attachment 243553
Frame connection.

View attachment 243554
Side view. Not concerned about chafing. Star washers used on both ends for good connectivity, plus I glopped the connections in an attempt to keep water out. Even if the entire thing eventually fails, the other lead going directly to the battery will still be there, and I'll enjoy the lower overall ground impedance in the meantime.

To make this truly complete, a larger than stock battery to chassis ground cable will also be installed.
Click to expand...

I need to show this to me Dad. I think he understands this better than me.
 
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Zorba said:
The best way to connect your negative winch lead, is to ground it to the frame as close to the winch as possible. Then have a short as possible heave duty battery to frame connection as well. This will give you a lower impedance than any cable.

Nobody does it that way. Why? Because running a dedicated negative cable is more reliable, despite having a higher impedance. Keeping high current grounds viable in a Jeep environment can be problematic. So I installed a direct negative cable...

HOWEVER - nothing says you can't do both! Then you have the best of both worlds.

View attachment 243552
Two negative leads connected - one direct to battery, one direct to frame.

View attachment 243553
Frame connection.

View attachment 243554
Side view. Not concerned about chafing. Star washers used on both ends for good connectivity, plus I glopped the connections in an attempt to keep water out. Even if the entire thing eventually fails, the other lead going directly to the battery will still be there, and I'll enjoy the lower overall ground impedance in the meantime.

To make this truly complete, a larger than stock battery to chassis ground cable will also be installed.
Click to expand...
Over doing it by doing it doubled up. Expect nothing less from @Zorba. (y)
 
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