What did you do to your TJ today?

Installed synergy steering kit with fox 2.0
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next I'll do the HD ball joints
 
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After being frustrated for a while, I decided to figure out why my steering was loose, creaking, clanking, other sounds, steering wheel always off center and swaying all over the road.
Tighten the frame side track bar mount; creak 1 fixed.
Check all other bolts related, damn near everyone had play. Fixed all that.
Here is the part that pissed me off; I've been paying Firestone auto for the "lifetime" alignment, well, both tie rod bar clamps were loose. Those knuckleheads stripped both bolts and the entire rod was just kind of doing its own thing.
Didnt have the "correct" bolts to replace but had some that are good enough until tomorrow.
Test drive: Theres the TJ I love to drive. Sterring is tight and tracts correctly.
Always fun laying on the concrete turning wrenches.
 
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glwood said:
I figure you installed the Synergy steering setup prior to reading
What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?
But please, read up on Synergy ball joints in the event you are planning on using those. You'll be glad you did.
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Guess I didn't do enough research. .. I'm seeing now all the bad and shot duds post out there ..Spicer seems to be the way to go? Thank you for the advise, I guess I jumped the gun on this one.
 
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Today i installed two little white 'keepers' above the TC. The wires were a mess. The original keepers were gone of course.
So I got a 2 pack of a generic plastic keeper doo dad. The white keeper doo dads are at the 9 and 1 o'clock positions.
Now the wiring is where it should be and get this..
I cant explain how this happened but this little 30 minute PM absolutely fixed the last bit of speedometer needle flutter.
:)
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KCsTJ said:
Today i installed two little white 'keepers' above the TC. The wires weee a mess. The original keepees were gone of course.
So I got a 2 pack of a generic GM plastic keeper doo dad. The white keeper doo dads are at the 9 and 1 o'clock positions.
Now the wiring is where it should be and get this..
I cant explain how this happened but this little 30 minute PM absolutely fixed the last bit of speedometer needle flutter.
:)
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What? The speedometer needle was hitting the wires? Happens all the time! ;):D
 
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Took the top off last weekend and installed an extended bikini top over smittybilt cargo net.
Looks good I think and just in time for the hot weather we're having here.

Also, I bought a Dana 44 yesterday from a TJ some guy upgraded axles on.
One step closer to 35's I go.
 
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Came home from work and went to go out again ...pulled the light switch and puff sound then no lights . (headlights and dash lights) :(...its always my lights....looks like gonna have to get another switch or fuse....
 
ayric said:
Not just today but over the past few days. MCE fenders with lights, new Synergy 4" springs to replace MetalCloak 3.5" springs, OME long travel shocks to replace Bilstein 5160s, new 15x8 wheels, 35" BFG M/T, weld on front LCA skids, c-gussets and Clayton rear lower shock mounts, HD ball joints, 4.88 gears, Ten-Factory shafts front and rear, UCF 3/8" alum TC skid, UCF 1/4" alum GT skid. Upcoming 1" MML to fix some fan shroud rubbing and either Currie or Synergy HD steering system. Then it will be ready for Rubicon and Moab trips next year.
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What fenders are those? I like the look of the flat fender.
 
Kiwi TJ said:
...no lights . (headlights and dash lights) :(...its always my lights.... switch or fuse....
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I bet it's a failed relay or it maybe just shorted somewhere, look further and investigate. I guess its not the fuse or switch. You don't want to lose the headlight while in the middle of the mountain roads at night.
 
TJ2 said:
I bet it's a failed relay or it maybe just shorted somewhere, look further and investigate. I guess its not the fuse or switch. You don't want to lose the headlight while in the middle of the mountain roads at night.
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It made a fizz and pop noise before they died.(thought I smelt smoke)...I wonder where the relay is for those lights...under the bonnet im guessing
 
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1.) As was typically the connectors used are not sealed and the contacts begin to oxidize and over time, the spark damages the contact.

2.) There is also mechanical wear in the headlight relay that, if the stalk is positioned at a particular point, both the low and high beams are "ON" at the same time when you turn the switch. This results in twice the current flowing through the connector than should be.

3.) If you have a halogen head light, power will be compounded. Some are rated at a higher watts than the OEM. More current than the system was originally designed for.

So my friend, it is the relay first you have to worry about :)
 
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TJ2 said:
1.) As was typically the connectors used are not sealed and the contacts begin to oxidize and over time, the spark damages the contact.

2.) There is also mechanical wear in the headlight relay that, if the stalk is positioned at a particular point, both the low and high beams are "ON" at the same time when you turn the switch. This results in twice the current flowing through the connector than should be.

3.) If you have a halogen head light, power will be compounded. Some are rated at a higher watts than the OEM. More current than the system was originally designed for.

So my friend, it is the relay first you have to worry about :)
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see this is why I love this forum...Going to have to go digging tomorrow now haha...Thanks....Its almost 1.30 am time for bed.....Zzzzzzzz
 
working on putting a garage hoist for hard top in. Current state of mock up and test fit. Ordered an electric hoist that will be mounted to complete this project this weekend With electric hoist should be all in for about $130. not bad when its essentially what is selling online for $400

top.jpg
 
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