After more research, and my panel being full, I think transfer switch is the way to go. Looking at something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KNXJXE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
What other projects are you working on?
- Thread starter Farmergreg
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After more research, and my panel being full, I think transfer switch is the way to go. Looking at something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KNXJXE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
It's a little overkill on the amperage but you'd be set up if you ever upgraded to a big permanent one like a Generac.
It would have been exactly right in Commiefornia where 100 amps is the norm, completely inadequate here in Florida where its 200 amps!
Actually you're right, I misread that and thought it was 200A and didn't run the math. Even at 100 it's bigger than his generator needs but not big enough to completely replace the house supply. Though I wonder how often those Floridians actually exceed 100A...do they really need to run their AC, an electric oven and cooktop while welding, and drying their hair with all the lights on?
yeah, generator is only 30a, I’ll double check before ordering but I believe my house feed is 100a
Is it an older house? I don't recall ever having a house with less than 200A service. Current one has 300A, but that's because I have 7 tons of electric heat pump and reserve to finish space above the garage that will bring total sf to 3600.
70s construction, just found our inspection report, looks like I’ve got 150a service which doesn’t seem standard, looks like I’ll need a 200a switch?
EDITED: yes. A 150A switch would work but I don't know if they make those. The larger they get, the larger the increments between sizes.
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I get matching on the generator side which is only 30a, but don’t I also need to also match the utility feed, which could be over 100a?
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I don't think I've ever exceeded about 80 - I have an ammeter on my service.
You'll need to match or exceed whatever the house feed is.
how did you set that up? i've seen devices that probably require a phone to use (Sense Home Energy Monitor), which doesn't sound like your cup of tea
, but I'm interested in what you might have set up to log the data, or are you just physically looking at it?I could grab components from work that could do it and have a trend log viewable from my laptop but that would total close to $1000 being that it's all products intended for industrial use. Or I could rig it up with an Arduino and write to a database on a raspberry pi, but there's some learning involved there because the database is something I haven't had to do before.
Had some time to spend on my generator project while the kids were on break.
Push start / remote start is nice.
Local gas station has ethanol free gas so I’ve been running the garage fridge between calls to clock the 5hrs needed for break in.
Found the lockout I need for my 150amp panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QKGLYPJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
And while neither of the two electricians I spoke with can be bothered to put me on their schedule. The last one had what I think is a good idea to save me from needing a transfer switch or sub panel.
Looks like the bottoms 8 breakers have an A/B option
And I can move several low draw loads onto thin breakers GE GIDDS-608007 608007 Single Pole 1/2" Thqp Breaker 20A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LYAAUW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Giving me enough room to move loads down, and free up space for the generator input aligned with the lockout.
Thoughts??
Push start / remote start is nice.
Local gas station has ethanol free gas so I’ve been running the garage fridge between calls to clock the 5hrs needed for break in.
Found the lockout I need for my 150amp panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QKGLYPJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
And while neither of the two electricians I spoke with can be bothered to put me on their schedule. The last one had what I think is a good idea to save me from needing a transfer switch or sub panel.
Looks like the bottoms 8 breakers have an A/B option
And I can move several low draw loads onto thin breakers GE GIDDS-608007 608007 Single Pole 1/2" Thqp Breaker 20A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LYAAUW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Giving me enough room to move loads down, and free up space for the generator input aligned with the lockout.
Thoughts??
how did you set that up? i've seen devices that probably require a phone to use (Sense Home Energy Monitor), which doesn't sound like your cup of tea
I could grab components from work that could do it and have a trend log viewable from my laptop but that would total close to $1000 being that it's all products intended for industrial use. Or I could rig it up with an Arduino and write to a database on a raspberry pi, but there's some learning involved there because the database is something I haven't had to do before.
I dunno how I missed this, but here's a pic of my setup:
Fuck any smartphone shit - that's even more amateur hour than this Chinesium crap is. L3 is neutral. There's 3 sense coils that go around the main feeds into the panel which can be glimpsed to the right. Total cost about $50 as I remember. It's "reasonably" accurate as checked with an Amprobe - but for whatever reason, it won't show any currents less than 2.5 amps, hence as seen here the L1/L2 is out of balance by 800 ma, but that doesn't show on the the L3 readout which I'm using for neutral, although I know that's where that current is going.
Somewhere earlier in this thread is the shed I built last spring. It sat here all summer without paint or trim, but was otherwise complete as far as the actual building goes. Now that it has FINALLY cooled off, I got the paint, trim, and drip rail on it:
Now I have to just build some shelves inside to call it done-done. Son in law turned me onto some free 1/2 inch OSB for shelves, I went to Homeless Despot to get some 2x4s to frame them up - starting tomorrow.
The not quite complete utility trailer makes a good lumber rack for the nonce:
Now I have to just build some shelves inside to call it done-done. Son in law turned me onto some free 1/2 inch OSB for shelves, I went to Homeless Despot to get some 2x4s to frame them up - starting tomorrow.
The not quite complete utility trailer makes a good lumber rack for the nonce:
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I'm learning to build a custom banister. It's slow going, but I love the direction (and more importantly my wife does too).
New carpet is a week or so out when this needs to be pretty close to done.
New carpet is a week or so out when this needs to be pretty close to done.
I'm not an electrical engineer so help me understand if possible , since L1 and L2 are different "legs" added together to get 240V at your panel , when would you ever see current on L3 ? Just curious thanks Zorba.
L3 is the neutral. Anything 110v will push current through it. Unless both legs are exactly balanced with 110 volt loads, then no current will go through the neutral - but that's probably TMI.
I get the L3 is a neutral , But since the load on both legs aren't balanced By .8 Amps shouldn't the neutral show a load ?
Maybe 98.4 watts isn't enough load for the Chi - com coils to pick up. Thanks Zorba.