What should I do to compliment the Zone 4 inch lift?
- Thread starter Boondocker88
- Start date
Budgets and projects evolve over time. Like I said, the Combo kit is a good place to start, even if many can get away with stopping at this point. Understanding why the Combo kit works as well as it does is also very valuable to understand when/if the next levels of refinement start to happen.
So I had made up my mind to order the Zone 4.25" combo kit when I spoke with my local jeep/truck shop here in Michigan. He strongly urged me to not go with a body lift due to the high likelihood of frame bolts either busting off or the nuts breaking loose inside the frame due to Michigan vehicles being exposed to the salt here in the winter and corrosion. (Zone lift with install for the 4" will run $1,100). Again, what is the main concern with the Zone 4" lift? Do guys not like the transfer case drop due to limiting clearance and go with the body lift because of this or is it that more times than not, even with a LJ, there will be drive line vibrations due to poor angles?
Sounds like to me you need to not listen to your local jeep/truck shop. Before spending $1100 I'd make sure your TJ has a good frame. If it doesn't your wasting your money. At $1100 that is about $450 in labor. Probably isn't a bad rate but I would personally install it myself. Installing it yourself will better help you understand your Jeep and you may see other issues to address along the way such touching up a rusty spot, lubricating, anti-seize bolts, etc. A shop will not do anything extra other than slap on the lift kit as fast as possible.
If you are going to offroad much, why would you want to lower the tcase? It's already too low from the factory for offroading.
If you are going to offroad much, why would you want to lower the tcase? It's already too low from the factory for offroading.
Lowering the transfer case is the opposite direction one should go.
A small body lift that uses rigid pucks like aluminum or reenforced nylon will be very similar to stock with regard to strength. A soft puck like JKS is weaker than stock.
The main "concern" with the Zone Combo is the inability to correct the pinion angles because it re-uses the stock arms. I don't know the travel lengths of the Zone shocks, but if they are longer than stock, that additional travel, if used, is wearing out the stock bushings faster than normal.
Understanding the difference between the Zone 4.25" Combo and the regular 4" kits is very valuable when making sense of why we often argue in favor of small body lifts.
A small body lift that uses rigid pucks like aluminum or reenforced nylon will be very similar to stock with regard to strength. A soft puck like JKS is weaker than stock.
The main "concern" with the Zone Combo is the inability to correct the pinion angles because it re-uses the stock arms. I don't know the travel lengths of the Zone shocks, but if they are longer than stock, that additional travel, if used, is wearing out the stock bushings faster than normal.
Understanding the difference between the Zone 4.25" Combo and the regular 4" kits is very valuable when making sense of why we often argue in favor of small body lifts.
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Frame is solid, no major rot just some surface rust. Your input makes sense, thanks! I've only installed leveling kits in the past on trucks, what is the most challenging areas of this install? Are the instructions adequate or are there things I should know? Install on Zone's website says 9-10 hours, any call outs that I should know about if I take this on my self?
Andy Maurer
TJ Enthusiast
I did this same install myself in my garage with basic tools. I learned a lot about my jeep in the process and have a much better idea of how it works, and how to fix things should they break on the trail
As far as call outs go... get yourself a large bottle of Kroil and start soaking all bolts a week or so before starting the project. Take care when removing your rear shock upper bolts and they have a tradition of breaking. I installed a JKS adjustable front track bar at the same time, it helps but it is not 100% required.
As far as call outs go... get yourself a large bottle of Kroil and start soaking all bolts a week or so before starting the project. Take care when removing your rear shock upper bolts and they have a tradition of breaking. I installed a JKS adjustable front track bar at the same time, it helps but it is not 100% required.
Appreciate the input! This is my first jeep and I think there is great value in installing the lift myself, I just don't want to bite off more than I can chew. Good think is I will have access to a lift and air tools but If a nut busts loose in the frame that could be a big issue!
For the body lift, are you saying that I should find a replacement to use for the Zone pucks?
That is good there is no major rust! Nothing too challenging with install as everything is bolt-on. As @Andy Maurer said, begin soaking all bolts a week before. Instructions are fairly straight forward and simple. I'd say it took me more than 9-10 hours just because I worked on cleaning and controlling surface rust areas as I'd remove stock items before installing the new components. I like to anti-seize any bolt that doesn't get loctite. The good news is that you can do the lift in (3) stages: body, MML, suspension. In my experience the suspension was the easier to do than the body.
Someone should confirm, but my understanding is that Zone uses hard nylon pucks which is an appropriate material for this purpose.
A lift will make install much easier than using floor jacks/jack stands like I did. Zone pucks are good pucks to use. Similar to stock, just taller.
Could I install the suspension portion first, to fit 33" tires, then the body/MML later or is there a specific order they need to be installed?
Getting the body and motor mount lift done first will help with the setup of 33s.
Doing the MML and BL together will save you having to relocate the fan shroud.