Keep it simple and use the stock mounting and positioning for both the track bar and the drag link. Jeep already figured out what you need to do.
What sort of steering setup do I have here?
- Thread starter NWPA Jeepy T
- Start date
Keep it simple and use the stock mounting and positioning for both the track bar and the drag link. Jeep already figured out what you need to do.
That's my hope, as long as the stock frame bracket is still there
Edit: which it looks like it is from the pics (without having crawled under it yet)
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So, instead of a tapered hole with a tie rod end mounted, it would be the existing bar top joint, turned 90°, thus drilling out the stock tapered hole and bolting all the way through the joint and the mount
I'm finally seeing pictures of what this is supposed to look like, so I appreciate everyone's patience while my brain catches up
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I don't think you're going to have enough adjustment to re-use that track bar in the original frame mount. I could be wrong. Once you remove that lowered track bar mount, you should see if the original mount still has the tapered hole or not.
My guess is the hole is no longer tapered, requiring a sleeve (if available) or using a TB with rod end.
If this track bar is adjustable for 4-6"lift, wouldn't I be able to extend it longer to reach the stock hole?
I'll find that out more when we pull the drop off
Edit: I've not heard of using a sleeve yet? Would that be because of the through bolt?
Ok, but why would a tapered sleeve be necessary? If I was going to a TB with a rod end and the mounting bracket hole was no longer tapered? But I wouldn't need that if my current TB will work for this application, correct? Or can a TB with this sort of end joint not be used in a horizontal position, only vertical?
No sleeve is necessary if the hole is still tapered. You can use the rod end in that orientation, but will have to drill the hole out if it isn't tapered. Something like this:
That was my thought, but I assumed that was not a rod end, but a regular bolt which wouldn't require a taper
OH, now I get it!! If it's tapered, just get a rod end and put it in there!! But if it's not, THEN drill it and use a through bolt
God, I feel dense today
The original configuration used a tapered joint like a tie rod end. Rod end = no tapered hole.
Look I get that the price is as my daughter would say bougie but I would not recommend it if there was something that gets the job done as well for less money. There are other track bars our there that will get the job done but a few minutes of searching on this forum about each of them you will find they all have issues of some kind. The only real issue the RockJock has is its cost.
Especially with some of the confirmation bias we have seen lately. Some of those threads would have been avoided if a few minutes of searching on here was done before posting. From the rate my builds that have gone sideways to the my new aftermarket axle does not just bolt in we have had some good ones for sure.
So, good news. The big TB drop bracket came off with no problem. It wasn't welded to the stock one. The hole in the stock mount was perfect, measured several times with my digital calipers. We opted to get a Moog tie rod end to mount to the existing track bar for the time being. If that ends up ever failing, we saved a rock jock end to do a drill and bolt through application. The new end should be here end of the week or so, so I'llpost an update once it's in. I really appreciate the help I received from everyone. I never understood steering geometry and why it mattered. It's times like this I really appreciate this community. I could build you the perfect garage, I just don't usually know what to do in it!! Thanks again.
Save the jam nut from the heim joint and use it on the Moog Tie Rod End!
The chances of that working are not zero but just about. I don't know of any automotive tie rod ends that share the same thread pitch and diameter with normal rod ends except for an oddball Dodge that has 3/4-16. It doesn't have enough misalignment to be used in a trackbar, strictly tie rod use only.
You are correct. A 1986 Dodge W150 takes a Moog ES2847RT tie rod end that has 3/4-16. I know because I use it on a custom track bar on my rig. Misalignment hasn't been an issue but I'm sure it gets stressed.
You really should check that at full droop some time. It would not be fun to find out the stresses are actually going to crack the pin in half. I did forget to mention that I have used that in a trackbar, but I turned it so the pins ran front to back, not vertical. Can't stress it that way.
Returning this when it comes
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-es2848ltOrdering this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rkj-ce9112n75l14
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-es2848ltOrdering this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rkj-ce9112n75l14
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